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I agree with Greg that one should never install valve seats unless one is damaged. Too often people replace them because the machine shop says you need hard seats. You do not. They just cause problems and many come out over time. Edge products change and vary over time. We were manufacturing valves and still do of Pierce eights and twelves. Several years ago we were contacted by a company……..I won’t say which one…… and they wanted a finished stainless valve delivered to them in the, and I quote……..two to three dollar range. Can’t be done without junk material and poor workmanship. We only sell valves with new guides. We use German diesel valve blanks, CNC them. We hold our machining much tighter than most. And are cutters are sharp. You get what you pay for. Recently we had a well known engine shop that has done countless early T head motors call us for valves, after a short conversation thy told us they had never needed to replace a set in the past, they just welded them and faced them……….there is a lot of poor workmanship out there, parts and labor. Currently I know of no less than five club members with bad newly rebuilt motors. All with less than two hundred miles on them. Take your time and do thing right, it’s more difficult and expensive, but your car will run. Exhaust temperatures are higher today with E-10 fuel, be sure you use modern alloy valves on the exhaust. We use the same material for both intake and exhaust, and yes you need to replace the valve springs……..but that’s another story.
