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Message deleted by original poster
The rear drums are on a taper and can be very difficult to remove. I had the problem with my ’35. Use a heavy puller and heat with a torch. Be aware it may let go with a bang. On reinstalling, use anti-seize compound on the taper.
To add to Paul’s information:
1. Try to re-install the nut on the first 2 or 3 threads which banging on the hub puller so that the hub won’t come flying off and possibly cause injury. The hub only has to move 1/4 inch or less on the axle’s taper to break free.
2. I read a couple of years ago (in Skinned Knuckles?) that we should NOT put anti-seize compound on axle tapers when re-installing, because the friction between the taper and hub is desirable and reduces wear. Does anyone have a better recollection or can you cite a reference, one way or the other? Accordingly, the last hub I re-installed (last Sept)got a thin coat of silicone lube, which I first sprayed onto a paper towel well away from the car. That said, I used anti-seize for 25 years with no apparent ill effects.
3. On one Pierce with extremely difficult to remove hubs (16 years ago), I followed an oldtimer’s advice to leave both rear wheels on, loosen nuts on both rear axles, then jack one side (only)of the car up and bang on that one–which would loosen the hub on the ground on the other side. That worked on one side, anyway.
1. One technique to remove the brake drum is to attach a large puller and torque it very tight. Then leave it over night. Be aware you may hear a loud bang during the night if it lets go.
2. I talked with two mechanics, each with over 50 years experience, before installing the rear brake drums on my car. Both recommended using anti-seize. Considering the reference to Skinned Knuckles to not use anit-seize, I talked with two other “old” mechanics this morning and both said they would use anti-seize. Later, I went in on the internet and found the same recommendation for our application.
3. If you replace the rear wheel bearings, call me and we’ll discuss that procedure. At least, remove the rear wheel bearings and inspect them. Both were bad on my car, however, made no noise. Wash bearings in gasoline. Do not use solvent. Even a slight bit of solvent left in a bearing is enough to destory the lubricating capability of the grease. I’m at 503-363-5700.
I recently (3 months ago) removed the hubs on my 1934 840A. The rear hubs were extremely difficult to remove. I broke 2 hub pullers because they were too small. I borrowed a large three prong hub puller that bolted onto three lug bolts. This puller has a dog bone Tee handle that went on the nut on the end of the puller. Using a lead sledge hammer used for knock off hubs on sport cars, I pounded the dog bone. The increased pressure and shocking of the pounding eventually broke the hub loose. It was violent, but successful and ultimately nothing was damage…..persistence and really beating on it did the job…..If you can’t find one of those pullers, call me and I’ll ship you mine to borrow….Rich Anderson 206-240-9434