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I’ve had a dripping oil pan since I did a complete rebuild on my 1933 V12 a few years ago. The cork material I get from Napa is not quite wide enough for my V12 , so I have to have a seam at the front and back. What is the best way to make a oil pan gasket or do I need to buy a commercially made gasket? I glue the gasket to the pan and grease the side going up against the block. I’m tired of pools of oil every where I go. Thanks Doug Vogel
Should not be a problem, are you sure you have a correct pan? There are two or three different V12 pans. We use a one piece gasket that we make ourselves.
Hi Ed, unless the pan was changed back in the 1930s or early 40s ,I am fairly certain it’s the original pan. When I pulled the pan for the first time it had three or four inches of black sludge in it, which would indicate possibly an original. Thanks for the information, I had no idea there was more than one pan.
The pan fits perfectly and is the right size.
Doug,
You could try some Permatex Ultra Black Oil resistant gasket maker.
It has worked well for me on my Series 80 pan that used to leak.
Peter
I think Olson’s gasket will make individual gaskets. He might be able to advise you on your issue.
OLSON’S GASKETS
3059 Opdal Rd. E.
Port Orchard, WA 98366, USA
Phone: (360) 871-1207
Email: [email protected]
Peter, If you use the ultra black and I assume on both sides of a gasket, how do you get the pan off in the future?
Doug,
You just use.a putty knife and hammer and gently tap the blade around the pan.
I would also have a jack raised to the bottom of the pan so that when it wants to drop, it does not drop on you.
After it is off, you use the putty knife to clean off the gasket maker.
You won’t have to drop the pan for years unless you have a serious engine problem
I would jut use a thin coating of the Permatex on each face of the gasket and a bit more at the split / seam between the halves.
Peter
Bill,
I used the Permatex on most of my gaskets, even the ones from Olsen’s.
I worked with them to make a more effective valve cover gasket for Series 80 cars.
Originally, it was a perimeter gasket and they leaked no matter what you did, but when I acquired my Series 80, the valve cover gasket was one full sheet of rubberized cork.
I made one up, ran it with no leaks and then sent another prototype to Olsen’s.
They liked the idea and now produce it for the Series 80, and probably other cars.
Even with that gasket, I use Permatex Ultra Black to hold the gasket in place before I tighten the valve covers.
Peter
Peter-that one piece cover gasket was a great idea. Olsen sent both with the kit and I used the full piece and have no leaks.
Gents,
BTW, I make many of my own gaskets from gasket material that I buy from McMaster-Carr or my local Industrial supply house.
Many gaskets are not that big of a deal to construct.
All you need is the material, a pattern (old gasket), a pencil and a set of Exacto knives.
Peter
If you make the gasket out of two pieces –Just make a “V”” join across the gasket. a “”V”” is less likely to leak than a straight join. Of course also use sticky stuff of your choice. Jak.”
Jak,
Where have you been?
Yesterday, I was wondering about whether you had been swallowed up by the Beasts of OZ!
Peter
G’day Peter
You guys always seem to be having fun!
Cheers
Thanks everyone, I will make a new gasket and glue it on with ultra black. Hopefully that will take care of the oil pools. Doug Vogel
Hi Doug, the flat surfaces on the gasket rail on the crankcase rarely leak. I too use some grease on the surface of the gasket that contacts the crankcase. The most common leaks are from around the threaded fasteners, and the joint in the gasket and the ends of the crankcase where the covers are attached.
In order to prevent getting the gasket ‘too stuck’ to the crankcase, I use some ‘Ultra-Black’ on the threads and a bit under the washer of each oil pan bolt.
Otherwise, I’d follow Peter’s suggestions.
The ‘beauty’ of the Ultra-black product is that is is a matt-finish product and is Black, matching the engine colors. So just use a towel to wipe off any excess around the joints and bolts. The remaining ‘Ultra-Black’ will virtually disappear in the small joints and crevasses.
Greg Long
Thanks Greg, The last time I got under the car to try and find out where the oil was coming from I saw drops of oil on the some of the rear pan bolts. I am going to look for automotive grade cork gasket material that is big enough to cover the whole pan in one piece and use ultra black as you and the others have suggested. Thanks so much. Doug Vogel
The British believe in Hylomar; Permatex, Loctite, et al make similar sealants which do not completely set up, so the parts are less difficult to take apart. I use them and they work great.
There are also some modern gasket materials which are superior to cork and you can simply cut out a gasket with a hobby knife as Peter suggests. I hope this helps!
Randy, What material would be better than cork and where do you get it? Thanks, Doug Vogel
I just got back from NAPA and they recommended rubber fiber gasket and 2 non Harding make a gasket. I also got a tube of ultra black. I put a little of both on the work bench to let them set up and compare. The gasket material is large enough to make a one piece gasket. We will see how it goes. Doug Vogel