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I need a duplicate Serial Tag. Does anyone know who has made any of these tags?
Alan Dewsnup
The serial number tags vary a lot from model to model.
What year and flavor of Pierce do you need a new tag for?
Teens cars’ tags were on the outside of the body, under the left front door.
The cars from most of the ’20’s had brass tags usually on the inside of the firewall, or on a seat rail. The Series 80 and 81 cars had the serial number also stamped on the top of the frame rail in front of the firewall, next to the starter motor.
From ’29 and later the number tag was an aluminum plate riveted on the outside of the frame under the right front fender. Sometimes under the left front fender.. The galvanic corrosion between the aluminum plate and rivets and the steel frame made these plates get loose and fall off.
I believe that someone in the southern California Region had some of the ’29 and later plates made up.. but I’m not sure who.
Greg Long
In the URL below, scroll down to Pierce-Arrow. The SECOND item is the serial number plate, appropriate for 1929-38. Very inexpensive at $17.95 + 15% shipping.
This is a project of the Southern California Region of CCCA.
Hello George and Greg, Thanks for taking the time to share information with me regarding serial number tags. I wish I could say that I had a 1917 or older project but I can’t! My car, that is missing the serial number tag due to corrosion, is a 1935 1255. I will check with the reference and see about getting one for my Pierce. One last question, could someone share a close-up picture of an original mid 30’s serial number tag so I can determine what size and style lettering would be the most authentic to use.
Thanks Again,
Alan
For what it’s worth, here is one for a 1930 model B. Tom
Thanks for your reply Tom. Could you measure the height of the serial number digits? I would appreciate knowing. Your tag looks to be the same as what I will be using on my 1935.
Al
Hi Alan, here is an image of my serial plate off my ’33 836 club sedan.
The image has a lot of parallax in it unfortunately. But the height of the numbers is slightly less than 3/8″, not as small as 5/16″.
I’d go with 3/8″ . And try to find number stamps that have older looking number designs. Like the 3’s have a flat top, and straight diagonal to the center then the circular lower loop. sort of like the top half of a Z and the lower half of a 5. When you look at sets of number stamps, you will see what I mean.
Hello Greg and George, Thanks for the help you have offered me with regards to a serial tag for my 1255 P-A. I have some 1/4″ stamps but no 3/8″, so I will start and EBAY search to see what I can find that would leave some suitable numbers on my soon to own tag. Now for an update for George. I did follow up with the reference to the So. Cal. CCCA project per above. I did find that the project has changed hands and is now controlled by a Mr. Steve Snyder. I did contact Steve and have ordered a new tag. For anyone else that requires a 30’s P-A Serial tag, I can now provide you with contact information and phone number, if needed. The price delivered is a bit more at $28.00 delivered. The new Serial tag will let me give the identity back to my car that has been missing for years. Thanks again for your help.
Alan
Alan,
Contact info would be great. We ought to put this in the parts and services directory.
Bob
Hello Bob,
Please send me an email to my regular address and I will share all contact information regarding the 30’s Pierce-Arrow Serial tags.
Al
I was wondering if you have the serial number for your car. It’s not the same as the engine number. Do you have it on a title perhaps?
For someone with a missing tag and no documentation, any number stamped on a repro plate would be a guess, based on roster numbers, correct?
Hello David, I have a serial number on some paperwork when I bought the car. (Hope its correct, looks in line with the roster numbers) Using an aluminum tag in a location where P-A placed them was not really one of the better ideas that came out of Buffalo. I guess we just do the best we can especially when it comes to serial numbers and what we are working on. My car has probably 75% of the original engine, at least I suppose. The number is in line with other 1255’s listed on the roster. I have been able to fill in the missing pieces from other donor engines, which is good. I have heard that P-A would use the serial number in other odd places such as body wood structure, but I have not been able to confirm that information and I have not broken down my P-A body yet.
Al
There are sometimes numbers scribbled on upholstery tags, that were attached to seat spring assemblies. I have a few, I’ll see if it appears to be serial numbers that are on there.
Yes, aluminum not a good choice, but then again, they had no idea we’d still be using the cars 80 or more years later, they were just trying to stay in business!
David, I had not heard of upholstery tag numbers…….hmmm. I had heard of wood structure pieces branded with what appeared to be a hot iron, that would keep the flow of correct wood heading for the proper car (wheelbase-body, etc.). I would sure like to confirm the number I have before I stamp my new Serial tag. Any information of additional insights would be appreciated.
Al
Al,
Do you have your engine number?
If so, maybe we can look up your car.
Peter
Hello Peter, I would welcome your, or anyone’s, assistance to look up and verify the serial number that my 1935 P-A 1255 EDL as originally assigned. As requested, my 1255 engine is: 405175. Thanks so much for you offer and I will be waiting on full alert waiting your response for your response!
Al