carb

Hi Ed, start with the basics: do you have spark? Has anything been done with the distributor, that might mean the timing has changed?

I believe your year series 33 has the Dual Delco distributor, if so, remove the coil wire from each distributor, and hold it about 1/4″ from a metal part of the engine, and with the ignition on, crank the engine over, you should have a spark.. Do the same with the other coil wire, and distributor cap.

Providing you have spark from both coils, then pull a couple of spark plugs, and inspect them: are they wet, oily, or dry, ?? If all of them are wet, then the engine is flooded, remove all spark plugs and either replace them, or clean them. Then reinstall and try to start the engine again..

If the spark plugs are dry, then you likely do not have enough fuel getting to the cylinders to get it to start..

Starting procedure:

Turn the fuel mixture knob to full rich.

Make sure there is fuel in the fuel tank, and the gas cap is tight, [no air leaks, good gasket]

IF there is a gasoline shut off valve between the fuel tank and the engine, make sure it is turned on.

Pump up the air pump until you show at least 1/2 psi air pressure on the dash ‘Gasoline’ gauge.

Turn on both ignition systems..

Set timing to mid way on the advance lever.

Step on starter button,

As the engine is cranking you should see the ammeter needle flick back and forth as the points open and close.

Pull the ‘prime’ knob for a count of ‘one, two, Three’.. then release,

The engine should fire, if it fires then dies,

Step on the starter again, and pull the primer, release the primer..start the engine

As the engine starts to die, pull the primer for just a second,, a count of ‘one’..

The primer injects fuel directly into the intake manifold.. it will provide the extra fuel for the cold engine to start

Once the engine has run for a few moments the additional priming should not be needed.

Once the engine is warm, or warming up, turn the mixture knob toward lean, this should smooth out the idle.

Monitor the ‘Gasoline’ gauge on the instrument panel. It should show that it is maintaining air pressure in the system. If not, that is a different issue..

Let us know what you find out..

Greg Long.

The above starting procedure is based on the assumption that the engine has been running correctly in the past, and is just being difficult to start after a storage period..

Greg

Hi Ed, of course, Tomorrow might be best, i’m going to be away from home and unable to talk this evening, Try me tomorrow, I should be able to talk then.

My number is in the online as well as the paper PAS roster.

email is : [email protected]

Greg Long

The last car that did that to me (stuck intake valves) was due to old gas. Car ran fine, got nice and heated up for the first time in years (thought all the old gas was out of tank, but there was some small amount left, put fresh gas on top of it and must have dissolved the old stuff). Next day, went to start car, valves had gummed up….so first thing I’d do is check your fuel supply. The gas these days doesn’t last like it used to, even the non-ethanol variety…

Ed, understood…the problem is that the old gas can leave a residue behind as it changes/evaporates/goes bad. So, what happens is it seems all the old gas is out of the tank, when in reality there’s a coating of sorts on the bottom of the tank…in the old days we called this varnish, as that what it appears like when it “cures”.

So, I’m not the expert here, but if you had some old gas in the tank, and now you’re having valve sticking problems, I’d sure think about dropping the tank and getting a local radiator shop to clean it out, if you have one. Luckily we still have an old time radiator shop here that’s been taken over from older gentleman by his nephew.

You’d be amazed at what can hide at the bottom of a gas tank…