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Looky what I found: Egad! Wonder how I was avoiding overheating problems?!
It pays to Check Everything!
My Car’s head is going to a local shop for cleaning and crack inspection; then if all goes well, a nice coat of quality black paint!
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Randy,
That thermostat is a special model, so finding one that fits is difficult.
That stated, be in touch by email and I can forward the correct P/N to obtain one (if it is not listed in the Parts & Service Directory).
I have a couple of spares in my storage unit, and will endeavor to remember to check the number later today.
Peter
Randy,
You should also check on the integrity of the thermostat neck, as the original ones were made of aluminum.
They disintegrate over time by becoming VERY thin due to galvanic corrosion (dissimilar metals – cast iron & aluminum).
Paul Jacobs sells an entire kit for replacing the neck and thermostat.
The neck that he offers is NOT so effected.
His kit includes an O-ring and a gasket.
Paul’s offering is listed in the P&S Directory.
Peter
Randy,
BTW, if your neck is not in need of replacing (but you should do it anyway), you can reduce the galvanic corrosion by putting a sacrificial ZINC anode inside of the cylinder head.
These are found at boat stores.
With boats, they are typically attached to the propeller shaft and need to be replaced every few years as they disintegrate over time.
With sea-going boats it is better to replace a $5.00 shaft anode every few years than to replace a $1,200.00 bronze propeller or a $1,000.00 stainless steel propeller shaft.
Galvanic corrosion is less severe in freshwater, but remains a problem.
If you pursue the sacrificial anode route, just make sure that you can access the anode and that it is of sufficient size so that it does not break loose and plug your cooling system.
Paul Jacob’s kit will eliminate the need for a sacrificial anode because of the non-metal material that he uses to cast the thermostat neck.
Peter
Hi Randy, here is the number for a thermostat that will work. Car quest number 30116. I’ve tried several times to post a photo of the thermostat box, with no luck.
I put a large O ring in the recess of the neck with plenty of Permatex Ultra-Black gasket maker/sealer instead of using a paper gasket.
Remember to drill two 1/8″ holes in the flange of the new thermostat to provide some cold-coolant circulation.
Remember to NOT use a thick gasket if any between the neck and the surface of the head. The neck will compress the gasket material under the two studs/head-nuts, but NOT under the brittle sides in-between the studs.. the two ears will flex very little then the ears will crack off.
I usually use a flat surface with a sheet of sandpaper to surface the bottom of the water neck flat, and do the same with the mating surface on the head.. Then use only Ultra-black or a VERY thin paper gasket with sealant.
Greg Long
If this image will post, it will show an original water neck with some corrosion, and an original cast bronze thermostat. Note that the original thermostat had two 1/8″ holes in it to allow some coolant circulation when the thermostat is closed.
Greg Long”
You will need to contact Karl Krouch concerning the water outlet manifold. He has the casting pattern.
Wayne Hancock also offers water necks and thermostats for the Series 80 / 81 cars.
The thermostat I removed was made by Waxstat in England, setopoint is 86C or 180F.
The Car Quest 30116 seems to be about 167 F which seems suitable for something old; I wasn’t having temp trouble before so I don’t know if it makes a significant difference but what would you use: lower temp or higher?
This unit cross-references to a common Mercedes-Benz application and provides a block off on the inlet side; seems the block off would simply do nothing when used in the Series 80 head. M-B 1152000315; 1162000015; 1162000215; 22031775; and a lot of others. For the Mercedes, the setpoint is 167F
The NAPA number for a 174-degree thermostat (NOT 175-degrees, but 174-degrees, eesch!) that is near identical to the MotoRad thermostat I showed them is NAPA #180.
The OD dimensions of the MotoRad is 66.75 mm / 2.28-inches.
The opening on the cylinder head is 63.75 mm / 2.50 inches.
The lip on the NAPA 180 is the same.
The MotoRad number is: 248-180 (according to the MotoRad website).
NAPA did not have a 160-degree thermostat, but MotoRad says that their p/n: 248-160 is the 160-degree version of the 248-180.
The 160-degree thermostat is a WARM WEATHER ONLY thermostat.
Check out my Car’s thermostat housing, post-glass bead cleaning: no aluminum here. It appears to be made of at least three pieces of steel, one of which is a length of exhaust tubing, welded (is that a weld?) together.
I sent a note to Wayne Hancock, about the replacement he is said to offer.
WOW!
That is one SERIOUS Home Job!
I bet someone long ago said “There! I fixed it!”””
Or, someone long ago said: Darn IT ! I shouldn’t have tightened those head nuts so tight on that corroded aluminum water neck..
I’ll ‘fix’ it.. I’ll make a water neck out of steel !!
I’ve seen dozens of creative replacement water necks.. none look right and some are down-right UGLY.
Greg Long
I laughed out loud when I saw this one; you gotta have a sense of humor!
I hope you don’t drink out of that cup. You know Beethoven died from his drinking cup- it was made of lead…
Ha! That’s my official Rolls-Royce Owners’ Club cup; it won’t hurt you (much; at first…).