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I am a retired aircraft maintenance technition. I recently purchased a 1934 model 1240A. I contacted the AACA to purchase a maintenance, or shop, manual for this car. They advised that Pierce Arrow never published a shop manual.—-So how did the Pierce Arrow dealer’s obtain maintenance instructions, parts tolerances, clearances and all of the other required information needed to maintain their cars?
That is correct. Information was obtained from Pierce service bulletins and other printed matter, and at one time there was even a Pierce Arrow Mechanical Club, where interested mechanics would meet at the factory to discuss various issues. These meetings and findings were then also published.
There were also information sheets published about many models, that showed lubrication and major information. You can usually find these on Ebay.
Period “generic” shop manuals also usually had a section on Pierce Arrow.
There have been a few mid-30’s cars for sale lately, which one did you buy, and could you post a picture?
If you have specific questions, posting them here can usually get you an answer, there’s nothing that can be done to the cars that someone in the Pierce Arrow Society hasn’t already been there and done that!
OK. Does the AACA (or someone else) sell copies of the service bulletins that would pertain to my car?
My car is a 1240A five passenger sedan. Vin # 338S107.
I am not very good with computers and I have no idea how to send a picture.
I am sure that I will have lots of questions as I learn about my car.
You may want to check on this website – left column under Member Pages. There is a Service Bulletins section there.
Hello Daryl, welcome to the Pierce Arrow Society.
Pierce Arrow did publish an illustrated parts manual up until 1931. But after that, the parts manual was just a parts list and text description.
What is available is a complete volume of the Pierce Arrow Society’s service bulletins. these are both new discussions and reprints of old or original factory service bulletins. Contact our Company Store to purchase a thumb drive with all the bulletins recorded, and searchable via your computer.
The other source is early copies of ‘Motors Manual’ Like this on on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Motors-Auto-Repair-Manual-1935-1949-/162657101378?hash=item25df1e6642:g:8cAAAOSw9EJZqu2l
You want to find a 1940 or earlier printing of an 8th or earlier Edition. there are often several printings of each edition. The earlier editions can have info for 1931 and later Pierce Arrow cars. The info is a bit ‘thin’, but is better than nothing.
But posting questions on this message board will get you information pretty quick.
For posting images, first, it is best if the image’s file size is less than 1mg. or 1000kb. The image’s file should be in your computer’s memory. And you need to know where to find that image file. I use folders of images named for the year of car that the file contains photos of.
Then, when you are typing a message, under the text box you are typing in, there are two horizontal spaces. The second one has ‘Choose File, then to the right is another box that will say ‘no file selected’.
click on the ‘choose file’, a list of files, folders, etc in/on your computer will show up, Select the the file that is the image you want to attach to your message. The address or file name within your computer will show up in the box to the right. The file name should end in .jpg this type of file seems to work best.
Then click on the ‘Submit Message’ gray box at the bottom of the page. Your message with the image will be put on the Message board.
There are members here that are Much more knowledgeable about computers than I. Hopefully my explanation is correct, and understandable.
Greg Long
You can give me a call later in the week, as I am over seas right now but should be settled in back home by mid week. I’ll be happy to answer any questions you have. You ppst d the body number of your car, can you tell us who has owned it in the past and where they lived? Maybe some of us are familiar with it. Thanks, Ed. 413-530-5712
The VIN you mention is actually the body number, as Ed mentions, the “S” standing for five passenger sedan …you would also have a motor number and a serial number, the serial number should be on a nameplate riveted to the frame under the left front fender…at the very least you’d see two small holes where the plate had been located…
Even though it does not have illustrations, the 1934/35 Parts Manual does have valuable information. Pierce-Arrow trained the dealership mechanics either at the factory or at the dealership hence no service manuals.
Thank you all for your suggestions and guidance. I have ordered the parts book from AACA. And I will ask when I have specific questions.
The frame number is 3110041. The engine number is 40024. I was told that the car was originally from Maine but I have no proof of that.
Well,
Here she is…
Daryl was diagnosed with cancer shortly after the purchase of this car. He lost the battle. That I know of, he was able to drive it once. The condition was not quit as good as the dealer described. We are now attempting to drive the old girl but having issues. Foamy coolant with oil. Compression is ok but there is a breach somewhere.
Is there any specific company that specializes in the PA V12 parts? Gaskets?
Bill,
I have a 1240A convertible coupe. Olson’s Gaskets has a full set of gaskets as a kit and also sells them separately.
Do you have oil in the coolant or is there coolant in the oil? Any chance that what you think is oil is actually water pump grease? If it’s truly oil then the first place to look is the oil cooler which is located on the passenger side of the engine compartment down low. We usually block it off at the joints so that no oil circulates through it. With modern oils it’s not needed.
Bill
Thank you Bill!
There is oil in the coolant for sure and it does not appear to be grease. I see no evidence that there is coolant in the oil.
Do you remove it completely or just plug the lines and leave it in place?
Bill
William, you picked up a beautiful automobile and a V12 to boot!
Good luck sorting her out.
The experts here will have you happily motoring along in not time.
Great car. From my experience, you have a couple of problems. The oil cooler circuit on the car is compromised, thus you have oil getting into the coolant and vice versa, depending on pressures.
The oil coolers are little honeycomb radiators, and usually can only be fixed by filling up the leaking cell with solder. The best bet is to disassemble the cooler and put in a bypass copper line, no cooling, it’s not necessary, although Pierce engineers thought so when they went to hydraulic valves.
The second thing, water pumps will suck in air. If the shaft is worn or not a good seal, then that’s a problem. Either make sure that there’s packing and/or water pump grease, or change the shaft and seal
Good luck.
Vehicle was restored by Terry Wenger and purchased by John Porback a year before his passing. John’s estate sold this vehicle through Worldwide in Scottsdale , Motorexotica purchased the vehicle at the Auction. I lost track of the vehicle when sold by Motorexotica. I was responsible for getting John’s vehicles ready for the auction.
History of the vehicle was in the “The Classic Car” Volume LXVI, Number 1, Spring 2018 which was a reprint of what had previously be published in the Arrow.
Terry is no longer a member of the club, I will provide you his contract information if you send me a email directly.
I left mine in place and plugged the lines.
If my memory serves me correctly. The oil cooler was not installed by Terry Wenger and I shipped with the vehicle to the Auction.
Terry did have issues with the head gaskets during build. Original set and 2nd set came from Olson’s. Don’t remember why, but sure Terry would be of assistance if requested.
Extensive documentation of the build was shipped with vehicle to the Auction.
Gentlemen,
Thank you for the excellent information. This is really appreciated.
I did find dads box with all the records and I will be going through them to get more familiar with the mechanics of the car.
Unfortunately, although the oil cooler is installed, it is not hooked up as there are no lines attached to it. The ports are plugged with brass plugs.
As such, there must be a breach somewhere in the system.