Correct Battery Ground

Patrick,

The battery box is indeed large enough for TWO Optima 6v red Top batteries.

I have that arrangement, AND I have been told many times that such an arrangement is serious overkill with a Series 80 6-cylinder engine.

That stated, I installed that two battery set up because I was the guy who arranged for the Killer Deal on Optima 6v Red Top batteries a few years back.

For about $200, I have an absolute bulletproof battery system and no more lead-acid batteries to go dead in a few years.

Note on the photo that I have the batteries mounted on a piece of plywood with a foam cushion between the plywood and the batteries with the strap running around the wood.

I do believe that the Pierce-Arrow 8 & 12 cylinder cars can benefit from TWO 6v batteries.

Peter

I’ve had wonderful service from Optima batteries. I run ONE in my 1918 48 and one in my 1925 S80. I run a pair in parallel in the 8-cylinder cars not for starting but for the increased reserve capacity to power lights during long night drives. I run brighter bulbs in tail and stop lights in all the cars. The 1930 and 1934 8s have 25 amp generators, and their output drops to about 17A when the temperature compensator kicks in.

Those 8s originally used Group 3 batteries with 140AH (amp-hrs) of reserve, and 12s used Group 4 batteries with about 165 AH of reserve. A single Optima 6V has 100AH of reserve; a pair in parallel has 200 AH reserve capacity.

Since the early 1960s we have been used to having cars equipped with alternators which charge at idle–not so with generators.

So for me, at least, it’s worth using a *pair* of Optimas if you contemplate using your Pierce at night.

Craig, yes, almost all 6V American cars with single-filament bulbs used 3 cp #63 bulbs. I run #1129 (21 cp) bulbs in taillights and #1133 (“mushroom head”) spotlight bulbs of 32 cp in stoplights. A #81 (15 cp) will also work.

My 1918 (and ~1915 thru 1924) taillights had #63 taillight bulbs originally but not enough width in the housing for these other bulbs, but I found that a #209 elongated dome light bulb (15 cp), with o very slightly larger globe diameter, will fit. I also carry battery-powered bicycle LED taillights, which can be steady or flashing, which can be clipped to my trunk straps, when I have to drive it at night.

For newer and lesser cars (such as my Jeepster) equipped with DUAL filament tail-stop bulbs (3cp/21cp), I run special 14/50cp bulbs available from Ford & Chevrolet reproductions parts vendors. Mine came from Ford repro company Bob Drake in Oregon. My experience with those off-shore high-output bulbs is that they have some quality control problems–or did four years ago: I ordered four bulbs (two spares) of which two were defective–one’s contacts were out of register with the filaments, and another’s glass globe came loose from the base while inserting it into the socket. The light output is substantially greater, although not to the orders of magnitude suggested by the cp rating.

And that’s why I run dual Optimas in my 8-cylinder cars….

Peter, the jury is still out on that one. I’ve tried several different bulbs including NORS Original Equipment #1000.

See the article “Thoughts on 1920s Headlights” in the new (February 2018) Skinned Knuckles. Since we have reprint privileges with SK, perhaps Arnold can reproduce that article in a near-future Service Bulletin.

One point in the article: #1129 bulbs (21cp) manufactured after the early 1960s have their filaments arranged differently from earlier #1129s in that the later bulbs provide more diffuse light, and thus not suitable as replacement HEADlight bulbs.

I’ve had moderately good success with #1133 spotlight bulbs which are designed for straight-ahead focus, but much depends on the specific lens and parabolic reflector.

Peter,

I replaced the original GE 2330 (32/32cp) headlight bulbs in my 1703, with GE 2530 (50/32cp). I have had no recent luck finding these bulbs though.

Bob,

The Series 80 uses a GE 1133 mushroom, 24W, 32CP bulb.

It looks like the GE 2330 / 2530 but without the flange at the neck of the bulb.

I trust that the photo will load.

Peter

One advantage of two batteries is the ability to drive for days if the generator burns out or stops charging. I run factory lead acid batteries in all my car, but have just begun to change over the collection to optima dual battery set up. I run both unless the car is going on tour, then I disconnect one and have a good fully charged spare in the car that can be conected in seconds, and get back on the road in the event of a charging failure. It is also nice to have if your cut out sticks and you dont notice it, killing your battery at a lunch or over night stop. The reserve power of both batteries is fantastic, and there is no dow side to them. Just BE SURE they are both fully charged before installation, so your generator doesnt have to do double duty getting them up to full charge. Ed

Thanks for the review of the LED bulbs.

Throwing more light to the rear at night is always a good thing.

Do you have a source for the ones you bought?

Finding 6v LED bulbs can be hit and miss most times.