Car hauler

A 22′ or 24′ is all that is needed, the additional length makes for a lot of extra weight, difficulty parking and maneuvering the rig.

I have a 22′ V-nosed trailer as well as a 20′ round nosed trailer, the 20′ is enough for a 16′ car to be strapped down and still have room for a spare tire and a few smaller boxes and a small tool box.

I used to have a 28 foot trailer, and it towed empty like my 22′ one tows fully loaded with a 5500# car.

Greg Long

Hey, where did you find that photo of the ’32 Convt. Coupe Roadster ??

Greg

My advice is to strongly consider an all aluminum trailer.

They are lighter and last so much longer (no floor wood rot).

They tow better and keep their value.

24 Ft. is a good compromise. Get the HD wheels and 12,000 lb. rating. Slope or V-front is essential to reduce drag. My 24′ is now over 20 years old and still very serviceable, but looking a bit shabby. I like the metal floor and tracks for strapping that was optional when new.

I have an 80″ door with sloping tail and wish it was taller as my 1247 clears by only an inch.

Aluminum is the best way to go if you can afford it, but it will take many years to recoup any significant investment through fuel savings.

Finally, tow with a diesel!

That trailer looks great, Ed, assume you have a CDL license to use it? If I read the regulations correctly, combined rated weights of trailer and truck combined over 26,001 pounds requires a CDL.

I have an older 24 foot Haulmark enclosed trailer, 10,000 pound, and it has no trouble holding my ’31 phaeton with room to spare. The phaeton is around 4800 pounds I believe, so you’re not over loading the trailer. I agree the 12,000 pound trailer might be better with 16 inch wheels, the 15 inch on my trailer are fine, but you have to keep on top of inflation, wear, and age of the tires, or you will have blow outs. I carry one of those small ramps in the trailer, so changing a tire is very simple with no jacking required, but it’s still no fun to look in the mirror and see pieces of tire flying around.

You want a trailer with a ramp door, and access door on the middle driver side of the trailer for easy in/out from the car. Marine deep cycle battery, winch, and electric tongue jack sure make life easier.

I worked on some early cars owned by a new car dealer, and he had taken some of the brackets used for tying down new cars to transport rigs, and modified them to fit his ’37 Cord, Packard Darrin, and others. It made tying his cars down in a trailer a snap. Guess you might lose a point at judging if someone noticed them.

As far as tow vehicle, I like the 2006 and back 3/4 ton Suburban with the 454 gas engine, as that was the last year it was offered. I know a lot of people like diesels, I just don’t, for personal reasons, as they do tow well and get better gas mileage. I have a 2001 3/4 ton Suburban that I found 3 years ago with 36,000 miles, 454 and all the goodies on it, bought for a fraction of what new Suburbans are going for, and better for towing. I had salesmen telling me the new engines were “engineered” such that they pull like the older 454, even went and hooked my loaded trailer to one to test, the pull is just not there. You need torque, which the diesel or the older bigger engine gives…..

The whole CDL question is widely discussed on the Internet. As long as it’s for personal use, you receive no money for hauling a car nor bringing it somewhere to use for money (i.e. a movie role), and have “not for hire” prominently displayed, you’re OK with your regular license in most states. If you get stopped and are hauling someone else’s car, or if they can prove you’re making money with it, or if the Trooper just doesn’t understand the laws, you may get a ticket.

I agree that the tires are the weak point on any trailer.

I am looking at a photocopy of the permissible trailers chart (“California Driver License Classes Valid as of April 1, 2012”) that I keep in a document protector in my truck. This chart is found inside the front cover of the California Commercial Drivers Handbook.

**California** Class C (regular driver’s license) licensee may tow **with** a 2-axle vehicle with a GVWR of 26,000 lbs or less (motor home or truck) the following:

* a single vehicle with a GVWR of 10,000 lbs or less, including a tow dolly if used

* trailer coach (travel trailer) not exceeding 9,000 lbs gross

* trailer coach or 5th wheel travel trailer under 10,000 lbs when towing is not for compensation

* 5th wheel travel trailer exceeding 10,000 lbs but not exceeding 15,000 lbs GVWR, when towing is not for compensation and with endorsement.

So there is a reason that most car trailers are rated (like mine) at just under 10,000 (mine is rated at 9,995).

My point is to recommend that each of us find the rule for his/her state and carry a copy in your tow vehicle.

As the owner of a 24-ft (near perfect length for me) 3-axle trailer with 15-inch tires (drat!), I urge getting a trailer with at least 16″ wheels. If you are licensed in California, try to find a trailer with an axle combination that exceeds 10,000 rating but the entire trailer is rated at under 10,000. The point is not just avoiding tickets, but also protecting yourself from allegations of wrongdoing in the event of an accident.

I do love the stability of the triple axles.

Correction..break even is 42K. (check your math, Tony, check your math!)

Greg, tires were new. BUT we run fast……..75 mph, heavy……..at the limit of the equipment. Most tires today are made in China…..Junk! Be sure to buy good, heavy, quaility tires. Goodyear makes a great 16 inch trailer tire that are 300 each, but well worth the safety and peace of mind. Too many bad stories with tires on trailers…….Interesting note…….if you order a new trailer, you can request two vin I’d tags, one at the correct weight, another at a lower one if you like. Helps out in some states. The interstate commerce The interstate commerce all says law means that if you legal in your own state, you’re fine in any other as long as you are on a federal highway . Get off the Federal highway in the states like California and you could have problems Issues.

My lady Peg says, 1 You can never be thin enough, 2 You can never be rich enough, and Ed adds number 3 You can never have a heavy enough tow vehicle or trailer when hauling a Pierce Arrow. Safety for life and limb is number one, safety of our cars is next. As cars and trucks become manufactured with modern methods the total towing capacity has been dropping. Sane safe procedures require good, heavy equipment. There is very little margin for error today. Take a Pierce 12 on a 147 inch chassis, your looking at 6400 pounds with just the car. Add the trailer and you will always be over weight with a 10,000 unit. Add extra parts, clothes, tools, and four people in the Crew cab truck and you are over by a lot. One other thing to consider, a 7,000 or 8,000 pound axle on a trailer are the same, it is the brakes on the axle that give it the higher rating. This, when replacing brakes, always go to the 8,000 set up. They fit right on, no modifications, and they stop much better than the 7,000 units.

It’s Pierce related. And it’s important that members understand trailers and the safety issues related to them. You car is much more likely to be damaged going in and out of a trailer than driving it down the road.