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I have seen mention here about the need to use woven linings. I have been looking into the Stewart Warner power brakes of the 33-35 cars and have found mention that the proper brake linings were 16″ drums with .270″ x 2.250 x 19″ Molded Type, riveted lining. 35’s list a .250 thick lining. Also the linings on my ’33 836 are molded.
In talking to a relining house they said their rule of thumb was if it had mechanical brakes it got woven, if they were power/hydraulic brakes they got molded. I am assuming that since there is more force applied with power brakes, then they don’t need the grip of the woven lining, which are prone to fade as they heat up.
Based on that I am moving towards using molded unless someone can shed some more light on the subject. Thanks in advance.
We use molded for years with no issues. Many of the old linings available today are not correct for automobile use. It seems they are for industrial equipment. With the S-W power brake unit, on my cars the molded has not been an issue. Ed.
What about cars with an all mechanical setup?
Are soft, molded linings OK on those as well?
I will need to do my front brakes in the near future so any feedback would be most helpful.
The issue as I understood it is that the woven linings have a higher friction coefficient and take less force to apply and are appropriate for non-power brakes. The SW is definitely a power brake and molded lining are called for – they were original. A caution is that with the disappearance of asbestos many new linings are too hard and are downright dangerous fading on one stop and grabbing the next – a bad experience with my ’66 Chrysler after which I hoarded asbestos linings. I couldn’t find a source for 16″ asbestos for my Pierce.
The key seems to be to have a lining stamped on the side with code FF or maybe FE. The letters have to do with friction coefficient versus temperature if I remember correctly. Anything with a G or above is too hard. This was discussed a couple years ago here and someone came up with a source for linings that had some actual definition of the linings they sell. that thread may still be here. I think I have a pdf technical report somewhere I will try to dig up and send when I get a chance.
Good luck! Jim”
With the help of other members and some tech people, since my car (’33 836) has POWER BRAKES, I was able to source 15′ of Ferotec Friction Ltd. D3915 molded lining and 100 4-5 rivets, (I got the number off the rivet heads on the existing shoes).
I got them from Industrial Friction Materials Co in East Hampton, CT for under a kite flyer, including freight. Ask for Joe at 888-508-3794.
The material I got was .250 x 2.25″ and they need to be cut to 19″, holes drilled, countersunk and riveted to the shoe.
I talked to the tech guy at Ferotec and he said one critical thing is they have to be cured at 350-400 degrees F for 3 hours and either have to have the correct curvature or be mounted to the shoes as they cannot be flexed after they are cured.
If you have a shop that can reline yours, the spec sheets below may help
Spec sheets are available at
http://www.ferotecfriction.com/_files/live/D3915_UK.pdf
http://www.ferotecfriction.com/_files/live/D3915.pdf
Again this is for the ’33 and later cars with Stewart Warner Power Brakes
Bill, that is some great information.
Thank you for sharing so we can all take advantage of the info.
I was told that if you go to a brake shop with your brake shoes and tell them that the shoes come from a farm tractor, they will install asbestos brake linings.
Again, that is what I was told and have not to date attempted such a purchase.
Here is what the brake lining and rivets look like.
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Very critical and informative topic. Bill, thanks for posting your findings-much appreciated.
John