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Can the wire in a 1937 Pierce-Arrow electrolock be replaced or repaired? The wire is shorting inside the protective cable. This is a model 430T electrolock.
I have already bent the tabs back and opened the switch which is why the black electrical tape is holding it together. You can’t get to the wire even when everything is apart. The bakelite piece that the rotating part moves over doesn’t seem to be removable and the wire connection is on the bottom of the bakelite part which is encased in the metal “container” that the tabs that are bent back are part of. There are no pot metal parts. The “container” is stamped steel with the three terminals and the cable coming out of the bottom.
Hi Steve,
I was able to change the wire in Marks car. You have to take the switch apart, get to the lower Bakelite part. Then on the side of the metal part of the housing there are 3 crimp marks that hold the lower Bakelite section in. You have to open those up from the inside so the lower section will slide out. It’s not easy, the wire in the tube is probably going to be tight in the metal housing. The contacts are part of the Bakelite so you can wiggle them around and see if it’s freeing up inside. You can also push on them, carefully to get it to move.
Thank you. I will try that.
I was able to successfully replace the wire. The switch now works correctly.
I have had a problem with the key switch in our 1936 1601 and the starting position to the right seldom works. I added a button switch wired to the Startix so I can use the “Accessory” position to the left to start, but this is not a good solution. The discussions above prompt me to ask 4 questions. Any help would be very appreciated.
1) Does the 1936 use the same “Model 430 T Electrolock?
2) If so, are they available anywhere?
3) Does anyone rebuild these assemblies?
3) How hard is it to remove and replace the Key switch & cable? I don’t see how to get 2 fingers into the space behind the dash center…