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Bill,
Is the rear drive a Timken? You can flip the worm gear on the car ones.
Bill
Its a Stan-Par. I took a close look in the parts catalog and I don’t believe it can be flipped.
The cracks you show in the exhaust seats are a very common problem with the dual valve engines. The problem stems from the lack of a coolant/water passageway between the exhaust seat, and exhaust port for over an inch down from the deck of the cylinder block.
I was advised to remove the exhaust manifold studs and use the hole as access for various picks, and tools to pick away at the rust flakes, and calcium/water deposits that tend to insulate the exhaust port and upper portion of the cylinder.
Also, it is a common practice to sleeve the cylinder to a smaller than standard size, in order to put more new metal beside the hot spot along side each exhaust port.. This of course requires the purchase of new pistons and rings..
Take a close look at the water flow patterns, and water passageway ports.. The intake water or coolant ports are the same size as the exhaust ports.. It was suggested that for my 1919 series 31 dual valve engine, that I drill and tap the coolant passageway port, install a plug, mill it flat, and drill a smaller hole.. I believe the original port takes a 5/8″ plug, and the recommended hole to drill the plug, was 1/4″.. This makes much more of the water/coolant flow through the exhaust side of the block and cylinder head, removing more heat and keeping the ports and seats cooler. Sure seems like a good idea to me.. I plan on doing it when I remove the heads this winter on my car..
Greg Long
Thanks for the info Greg. Good stuff to think about.
Does anyone know the possible colors these trucks were painted? Most of the sheet metal and the wheels had been sandblasted and painted red leaving no clues of the original color. I did find some original dark lime green paint on the rear window trim, but not sure if that was a body or just trim color.
Great truck, thanks for posting.
Dug into the steering box. Its in good and shape and still fairly tight. It was full of water but caused no damage.
Any information as to the colors for these trucks or where I may find that information?
I got the brake cross shaft unstuck, cleaned up, and mounted back on the frame along with all of the rods. Most of it was extremely tight. Took quite a bit of flame.
I found this interesting. Part of the shaft that rides in a bushing looks like it was fitted with a file. I’m pretty sure its original.
Behind the brake drums I found what looks like an orange primer, very close in color to blaze orange. It looks like it was covered in black so I’m assuming the wheels were painted black.
William, My unrestored 1921 Pierce R10 truck wheels has flecks of the same orange paint you have found. It also has a bright blue. I removed some of the grease at the hubs on the inner front wheels to make these discoveries. Karl
Looks similar to the primer on my Fleet Arrow Wagon primer.
This picture may show the primer color better.
Thanks Karl and Charles.
The wheels were sandblasted and painted red by a previous owner so that little area behind the brake drum is the only original part left. One wheel has a grayish paint with the orange over that and then black. The other wheel has the orange on the bottom with grayish and black on top. I’m not 100% sure on the original color, but from what I see it was probably black. Definitely not red.
Tapered plugs for repairing cracks in a block work very well. There are about 144 in the block of my Series 33 and have held up well for over 40,000 miles. When running in the engine, use a product like Locktite Ceramic Block Seal in the cooling system. The passages from the two valves into the cylinder has a raised area between them. This area should be ground down even with the passages to allow better breathing and to help prevent cracking.
I got into the regulator last week and just about got it back together today. Simply put, it was rough. Luckily the windings were still ok. A few of the lead out wires had corroded to the point there was nothing but green corrosion left inside the insulation, so some micro surgery had to be performed.
Lots of deep pitting but it turned out well considering the previous condition.
William,
Was that regulator on the Titanic? I guess it is 9 years too late. Looks like you saved the “unsavable””. Exquisite work.”
William,
You do nice work. I would have tossed it. I don’t have that kind of Patience.
Most of us know the effort that has to be exerted to restore any old car, even the ones that are “nice” when we start.
I admire your work, but even more, admire that you restrained from complaining about the hours spent to make the “before” picture into the “after” picture. Many hours, the patience to do things correctly and, if not correct, to do over again. All for one small detail of a much larger project…..you’re hearing nothing but admiration from me! Well done….and then some…
Spoken like a true gearhead, David! Well said, as usual.
William, this is beautiful work. One suggestion I would make is to ensure the contacts are cleaned of any chemicals, sand, walnut shells, or whatever you used to clean and/or de-corrode the electrical contacts. As important as the look and feel of a regulator is, the most important aspect is its performance. You will likely have to spend some time tweaking it when you put it together. I would suggest cleaning the contacts with a point file (NOT sandpaper), or contact cleaner, then do what you can to preset the contacts before starting the engine and/or the charging process.
You guys who post these in process renovations keep us lurkers enthralled. Thanks, and please keep posting pics of your progress. David, that includes you! You do beautiful work, time to show it off once in a while!
Bob