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I am going through the engine on my son in laws 26 series 80, and just pulled the oil pan to check things out. There was about an inch of sludge in the bottom which I cleaned out and also cleaned the oil pump. I plan on cleaning the oil lines and checking the bearings (hold my breath here). My questions are what wt. oil should I use in the crankcase, and how much does it hold , what transmision oil and what in the rear end? Also is there an oil filter that will fit? Thanks again Doug Vogel
Most of us use 20w-50 motor oil, or 20w-40. Straight 40 works as well.
The oil pressure will be high, over 60-80psi when the engine and oil are cold. Once warmed up, the engine will idle with from 0-5psi indicated and around 25 psi at 30-40mph.
The transmission and rear axle use 600W, available from most Ford parts dealers.. But 90w-140 will work, but it may leak past the old-style seals [felt washers].
The Pierce filter on the firewall can be made from stacked felt discs, or I think Jack Combs has a replacement filter element.
Greg Long
Unless the oil passages in the crankshaft have been cleaned out, use non-detergent SAE 30. In view of the sludge you found in the oil pan, some may also be in the crankshaft oil passages. Detergent oil (which all multi-viscosity oil is) can loosen up the sludge in the crankshaft and pug an oil passage to a bearing causing failure. For the transmission and differential, you can also use SAE 250 gear oil. A bulk plant with Chevron products should have it. I mix 25% Power Punch with the gear oil. This is an additive made for trucks. It has the consistancy of STP and provides better lubrication when the gear oil is cold and acts as a viscosity stablizer when the gear oil is hot.
I believe the crankcase holds 9 quarts.
Thanks For the info. Just what I need. Another question, What are the running boards made of? The only thing left are some rotten wood 1×8’s . were they metal wood or rubber? thanks again . Doug Vogel
The 1×8’s you have may be the original northern white ash. I suggest using waterproof plywood. Paint the plywood with a waterproof black paint. Over the plywood place a layer of 110# black roofing felt. Over this goes the running board cover of pyramid aluminum. The correct pyramid aluminum is available from Restoration Supply Co., 15182B Highland Valley Rd., Escondido, CA – telno 800-306-7008
When Greg mentions the Ford Parts dealer for the transmission and rear axle oil, I believe he meant to say OLD Ford parts dealer (Model A), as in LeBaron Bonney and such. The 600w is dark, stinky, thick stuff, but that is what you want for this application and in the steering box.
For the differential use only GL-4 rated oil (SAE 140), not GL-5 or GL-6 as it is said to attack the bronze bushing of the differential gears (I believe that there is some debate on this matter).
Regarding the oil filter, do you have a firewall mounted filter canister? If so, FRAM makes a filter to fit (CH192PL)). IF not, then you are on your own to fit one.
Regarding oil capacity, Tom is correct in that it requires nine quarts, but a quart more does not hurt or maybe a pint or two of STP.
All of Paul’s suggestions are spot on and I wish that I had put the roofing felt under my pyramid aluminum.
Peter, how is your engine making out after the meet? Ed