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Hi all,
Its been a while since my last posting. Nothing seemed to be getting done. Im at that stage, as some stated, “two more weeks” lolol.
The engine was supost to be finished in April, but here we are in June and nothing yet. Last bit of news is that it will be delivered this monday. mmmmmmm? lolo We will see. If it is infact delevered, it will go immediately to the body shop and receieve a coat of special high temp gloss black paint. It will then go back to the mechanic for instalation.
The body work has picked up again. The doors have been finished. There was NO rot on the doors at all. However, 3 of the four doors needs straightening. The only one that was perfectly straight was the rear, driver side pasenger door. That makes sense to me. No one every gets in the pasenger spot through the driver side.
The only problem area that has surfaced on the entire car is the ledge where the trunk sits. Where the body meets this ledge there is a small area of rot from dampness.
The body man is wondering if to take apart the rear wood frame or use another salution. Any help on this issue? The rot/rust is a very small line, but is goes across the entire back.
70% of the chrome is back. Im waiting for the two most exciting pieces, the grille and hood ornament. they both are to come in the next batch.
Body panels are being worked on and the restoration seems to be gaining speed once again.
Pics this week.
Rick
Check out CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealer) at restor-it.com. It is used a lot in boating repairs. I used it to treat a small dry-rot area in my Pierce.
You can use Quik-Poly to seal wood that has rotten, it would be very acceptable on a small area. West System, which is used on boats, is also a two part epoxy, but doesn’t seem to have the soaking power of Quik-Poly.
The wood frame is still 100%. Its only a small line of rot on the rear body panel.
West system epoxy is very temperature sensitive in regards to penetration. If I’ve needed deep penetration, I put the resin in hot sun or apply a hair dryer. As the temp increases the viscosity changes and it will get almost as thin as water. The only down side is that higher temp will also accelerate cure especially if in a pot or a confined space, so use their ‘slow’ hardener. Hypodermic injection when warm can also be effective. Don’t completely fill a large confined void or cure heat can actually scorch the wood and/or start a fire. Do experimentation in advance with any of these products before applying them to your vehicle. I like West primarily because I’ve worked with it a lot since the early 1970’s and have learned how to manipulate it, but temperature will affect results with any of the resin products.
Richard,
I have enjoyed watching your car’s TV debut, going thru auctions and handing off to other dealers. The “going back together”” is the most interesting part and I thank you for taking the time to keep up the progress reports.
Continued good luck.
Bill”
Agree, thanks for updates on progress.
We all want to do restorations quickly so that we might enjoy driving the cars, but remember, the best laid plans of mice and men aft gang aglay….
Hi everyone!
Today is the day the engine is to arrive at the body shop. Im excited. Not too excited. I have been told this before. I have feeling it actually might happen. I will post pics tonight if it arrives.
The big brick of an engine should be cranking out a massive 125 aprox of raging 1929 horsepower. lololo Im ready for the quarter mile. 
I want to thank every one who warned me about the babbits. When they boiled the engine they started to show signs of cracking and breaking apart. Im not sure we would have noticed if we had not had the heads up from many of you. A few more bucks now, saved a huge headache later.
Fingers crossed and I will check back tonight, hopefully with photos. Rick
How about a short but interesting status report on your 1929 restoration?
Yes, please update us, even if it’s not going quite as planned…we’ve all been there and can commiserate….
Hi all,
Lets see! The whire wheels are almost done. The engine has been mounted and is currently being wired up.
A small amount of tiny rust holes have been found along the frame rails. This is the first sign of rust we have found. It will be easily dealt with. Cut out and replaced with fresh metal. No bondo repair.
Things are moving slowly but the car is begining to be put back together.
If you have specific questions just ask. Rick
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Does anyone have the levers that are on the dash?
