1931 Archer needs help

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  • January 16, 2026 at 7:04 pm #482005
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    I am taking care of a few issues that need resolution on the 1931 Pierce-Arrow Model 42 Town Sedan. Currently, my focus is on the Archer radiator Ornament, which I have but have not been able to use it last year as a previous repair didn’t work. I will post a few pictures showing the previous repair, then with the JB Weld removed so I could see what is going on and devise a solid repair procedure. I have now exposed the Archer mounting stud, but I don’t think the stud is in serviceable condition. How do I go about removing the bottom cap from the Archer so a new stud can be installed? One suggestion is to fabricate a 304 SS threaded extension and TIG weld it to the prepared end of the existing stud. That would be a solid repair but the next person who would want to restore the Archer would have to remove that TIG welded on pup. I prefer to dismantle the Archer Ornament and install a new stud now not later. Does anyone here have some experience with this repair? Please share your thoughts and ideas. Several pictures to follow.

    Al

    Archer for 1931 Model 42

    January 16, 2026 at 7:05 pm #482006
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    Bottom of Archer with engagement ring removed

    January 16, 2026 at 7:08 pm #482007
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    JB Weld still in place Closer look at the mess

    January 16, 2026 at 7:15 pm #482008
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    JB Weld heated and removed to allow me to see what needs to be done. I see the end of the retaining stud but determine how to remove the bottom cap from the actual Archer so a new and longer stud could be installed.

    Al

    JB Weld removed, now we can see clearly what needs to be done.

    January 25, 2026 at 12:19 pm #482043
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    Hello Alan,

    It seems like you need a Threaded Stud that is Separately (differently) Threaded on each half.

    The part that threads into the bottom of the Archer (top half) should likely have a smaller diameter threaded area, than the lower portion of the Stud.

    It should also have a Small Nut and Lock -Washer, Torqued against the bottom of the Archer to prevent the Stud  from loosening itself from the Archer.

    Does this make any sense?

    The lower part of the Threaded Stud that runs down through the Radiator Cap, should ALSO have a Nut & Lock Washer, to  secure it to the UNDERSIDE of the Radiator Cap.

    That Stud Runs through the Radiator Cap, with a job of securing the Archer to the Radiator Cap.

    The length of the Stud is a TBD, meaning, you need to determine the Diameter, Length and T-P-I required for this project.

    I hope that my Extended Reply Makes Some Sense to You.

    Good Luck,

    Peter

    January 25, 2026 at 1:39 pm #482044
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    Hello Peter,

    Thanks for your taking time to share your description regarding the mechanical aspects of the Archer Radiator Ornament. You have confirmed, logically, how the assembly is mechanically held together. My question now is, what can be holding the actual cap to the actual Archer? As you can see, there is no retaining nut nor is there enough exposed thread from which a retaining nut would fit. If I can get the “cap” loose and removed from the Archer, I can go about the business of replacing the corroded stud with a better quality stud made out of 304 or 316 SS. I would also make the stud long enough that the Archer, the cap, an alignment bar and the engagement cup for the radiator can all be fit together with no lack of stud threads. Do you have any additional suggestions to help with the removal of the cap from the Archer? I have considered TIG welding a SS threaded pup onto the existing stud…….but that is my last choice. I surely desire to do this job properly which means to split the cap from the Archer, remove the corroded stud and replace with new. I would then build out from that point. Ohhhh what fun, seriously I DO NOT want to end up damaging the Archer or the cap! On a side note. As I am facilitating the Archer repair, I am also building a plain parking lot radiator cap to use in place of the Archer. Any experience anyone here has that can help me get the cap off with no damage, is greatly appreciated.

    Al

    January 25, 2026 at 1:43 pm #482045
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    Here is a thought that just occured to me. Is it possible that the cap itself is threaded so the cap actually is threaded to the retaining stud? That would explain why I see no nut holding the cap to the Archer. This is just a thought. I am going to apply a significant amount of penetrating oil and give a test

    Al

    January 27, 2026 at 7:44 am #482048
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    I can only guess at what is going on there, but it seems like the original stud had rusted and was broken off. The original stud is a 3/8-24 that protrudes 1” beyond the flat surface of the mascot and was likely cast into the mascot at time of manufacture. Once broken it appears that someone drilled and taped a smaller hole into the original stud so it could be attached to the cap and I’m assuming it didn’t work out and the epoxy was added… I’m thinking the mascot is probably epoxied to the cap and the small screw only held the bayonet on. This is a picture of the stud on my original mascot removed from the cap, that scale is 1” wide. I hope this helps.

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