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Alan,
Here is weight and length information from the 1931 Dealer Data Book:
Here is my current Pierce-Arrow update, and a few questions. A transaction was completed and I now have, at home, a very nice Black 1931 Model 42 Club Sedan. This Pierce-Arrow is known in the past, to the Pierce-Arrow Society, but has been out of circulation and unused for four or five years. This automobile is currently be serviced and prepped for this summer driving and touring season. Here are a few questions. Would someone contact me that has experience with the hood hold down catches? None of the catches, on this Pierce-Arrow, are functioning and I want to remedy that issue. It looks like a bit of a magic mouse trap for the catch to work as designed! does someone have a nice sketch of the fuel delivery system for a Model 42. I have studied the Society on line owners manual, it doesn’t give me the information I desire. I already know that fuel delivery is going to be an issue for reliable operation during the heat of summer. Also, the fuel gauge does not work. I am guessing that the tank sending unit is rebuildable? I am also guessing that the problem involves a bad float, what are my options? As the Model 42 has an electric gas gauge, the remedy should not be a challenge. What is the best approach to dropping out the tank to facilitate repair of the sending unit? I also plan to do a radiator flush as a preventative measure to assure the best cooling possible for driving in the hot summer months. Short of a fueling issue this Model 42 looks, runs and starts nicely, and is very comfortable to ride in. The brakes are GREAT for an automobile of this size and weight. If anyone has other first hand experience, hints or suggestions, as I prep for driving, I have a mind ready to learn. Lastly, I finally figured out how to post pictures on this forum. Please check out the following picture of the black Model 42 Pierce-Arrow, now living at my home in Utah.
Al
Alan,
Asking about oil usually opens a very large can of worms. Below is a period lube chart for 1931. I think most of it is self explanatory, although some of the oil numbers have changed.
There are a lot of opinions on oil. What I use is 15-40 Chevron Delo. Shell Rotella is similar. These are diesel oils, but are also rated for gas engines. They are high detergent. Any modern motor oil such as a 10-30 is OK. If you want non detergent, a straight 30 is good for most summertime driving.
There are two main areas of disagreement on motor oils, detergent vs. non-detergent and the use of ZDDP. You will have to make your own choice on the detergent vs. non detergent controversy or how much ZDDP is needed. Keep in mind that ZDDP didn’t exist when our cars were new and that too much (2000ppm+) may possibly be harmful to the engine. My opinion is that modern oils contain enough ZDDP (6-800 ppm) for our older engines.
For the transmission, a GL 4 gear oil, either 90 or 140 wt. The weight of the oil will determine how it shifts and the timing on the double clutch. I’d try the SAE 140 first and if it doesn’t shift well when double clutching, try 90.
For the diff. use a 140 wt gear oil rated for hypoid gears (GL-4). GL-5 is more easily found, but it may be harmful if there is any yellow metal in the differential or transmission.
One other comment; don’t use chassis grease in the steering box. It should use a heavy oil or flowable grease, grade 000 or 00. If there is a grease fitting on the steering box don’t use a pressure grease gun or you may blow the seals.
Hopefully some others will join in with their thoughts.
