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I am looking at a 1931 Pierce-Arrow with a purchase possibility. Here is my question. What is the total length from bumper to bumper? If this current search ends in a purchase, I need to see how much floor space is needed to park it. I know that the Model 42 has a wheelbase of 142″ but I don’t know the front and back overhang. If you own one of these, and are willing, please put a tape to it. I also need to know for transporting how much trailer is required.
Al
Good luck with your search. I have a 1931 model 42 sport phaeton. Just measured it bumper to bumper and it is 216”. My car has the spare in the rear and that measurement will accommodate the spare. As for a trailer, I have a 26’ trailer but you don’t need that much. If I remember correctly I rented a 20’ trailer to go pick it up. You might want to go for a 22’ just so you have a bit more room.
Another important thing to consider is the curb weight is something north of the 4800 pounds shipping weight from the factory for a 5-passenger sedan. It limited my choices when I bought my 31 model 43 sedan.
Alan,
Here is weight and length information from the 1931 Dealer Data Book:
Thanks for the posted information regarding the 1931 Pierce-Arrow Model 42 I requested. I now have a couple of questions about this same model 42. On a running car, what is the likelihood of the block removable water distribution manifold needing to be replaced? What are the signs that this water manifold is failing short of leaking to atmosphere and running down the outside of the block? Next, does a Model 42 have an externally lubricated clutch throw-out bearing? Next, are the wire wheels from a 1928 Model 133 Pierce-Arrow the same and have the same hubs as a 1931 Model 42? What is needed in order to convert a wood wheel car to wire wheels? Next, was 1932 the first year for Pierce-Arrow to offer a power assist for the brakes or was it 1931? If a good block flush is done on a 1929-31 Pierce-Arrow , what is the methodology to keep the rust sludge from migrating and plugging the radiator? What is a good flush compound to help clear the sludge out of the water galleys of the block? Maybe the best program would be to pull the water distribution manifold and mechanically clean the sludge out. Does anyone have experience to share?
Al
Ed Minnie has written volumes on getting rust and sludge out of engines and radiators.
Hopefully he has some of those detailed guides copied so he can post what you need with little effort.
As for swapping the wheels, you will need to change the hubs to go from wooden wheels to wires.
Good luck with your new purchase, and post some pictures when you can.
For information on the cooling system download PASB 2019-6 (Water Jackets) and 2018-6 (Rust Removal) from the website.
A common way to prevent loosened rust flakes from moving to the radiator is to use the foot section of a woman’s nylon stocking. Remove the upper radiator hose, insert the stocking, fold the stocking edge over the outside of the hose and the hose clamp over that to hold it in place.
Actually, 1927 was the first year Pierce-Arrow offered a brake booster. ’27 and ’28 were a vacuum booster. No booster ’29-32. A mechanically driven booster from 1933-35. 1936-38 again had a vacuum booster.
Alan, call me my number is in the directory. 1931 cars used six lug wheels……a one year only setup. Also, hubs and drums are different on wire, artillery, or detachable. So wheels on any 31 or 32 Pierce are always difficult at best……and nightmare at worst.