1931 Pierce-Arrow information needed

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  • #480948

    Hello David,
    Thanks for your time to post and share information on lubricating the 1931 Model 42 Pierce-Arrow. Your information is most informative. I would like to learn a bit more about what ZDDP is and how it affects engines and reliability. As I am a very new Model 42 owner, what is to be done regarding engine oil filtration?
    Al

    #480950

    Here is yet another question. This question involves what is correct and proper for the horn on a 1931 Model 42 Pierce-Arrow. I have seen some Model 42’s, in picture, with double chrome plated Bosch horns each mounted under the front park lamps, more like what a 1934-35 would look like. I have a horn bracket mounted to the top of the cylinder head on the Black Model 42 which is the subject of this chat. The horn that is fitted to the horn bracket on the cylinder head is a large Klaxon. I assume that the Klaxon is correct? But….are the twin Bosch horns also correct?

    Al

     

    #480956

    Who owns a solid, original 1931 Pierce-Arrow Model 41 or 42, that is willing to share information relating to my question above on what is correct for installation of the Horn.

    Al

    #480957

    Al,

    Below is a drawing out of the 1930 Parts Manual. 1931 does not have any drawings. I looked for some ’31 photos but don’t seem to have any. Hopefully a ’31 owner will contact you. If not, you can do a search for 1931 42 in the vehicle roster and this will give you some owners you could contact.

    What information are you looking for on the oil filter?

    #480958

    Hello David, I hope this is a good Mother’s Day for you and your wife. Thanks for your time to respond to my inquiry regarding proper horns for the 1931 Pierce-Arrow Model 42. The provided sketch from 1930 shows the same layout that is on my Pierce-Arrow. I will post a picture of my horn.

    Al

    1931 Klaxon horn for Model 42

    #481022

    I have completed a fuel delivery update and have taken the 1931 Model 42 Club sedan on a shake down trip of 70 miles. I learned several things, one is that the original mechanical fuel pump mounted on the engine is not the best. I can run on that system only but performance and reliability is much better when relying on the new electric fuel pump mounted at the fuel tank. I also installed an electric fuel pump by-pass loop and included a one way check valve. At this moment, I consider the fuel delivery update a success. The engine starts, runs and pulls great. The Pierce-Arrow rides, steers and shifts nicely.  What now needs attention is the repair and rebuilding of the Archer ornament/radiator cap to control a nose bleed of coolant when the engine gets up to running temperature. My Archer radiator cap needs to be dismantled and a new spacer, gasket and center cup with the mounting tabs replaced. Could someone please speak to me on this subject and also share a picture or two that will show the correctly assembled Archer unit?  A picture is worth a thousand words in this case. The Archer cap, now on the Model 42 Club sedan, is not workable as is. It looks like I will be using a non-pressure cap, from an early International tractor, temporarily, until I can put together the repairs needed to fix properly the original Archer cap. I would like to devise a repair that includes a SS inner cup and mounting tabs if possible. Council, help, references, encouragement are requested from this Pierce-Arrow group with experience on this subject.

    Thanks in advance.

    Al

    #481023

    As you can see in the attached picture, I have removed  the spacer and gasket material, neither of which I think were correct. The rusty mounting cup is bent and actually rusted out in one spot. I do not trust running the Club Sedan with this Archer in its current condition. How is the best way to  remove the rusted out mounting cup, in preparation of installation of a new cup? How does the mechanical connection work that attaches the Archer too or through the cap and  to the spacer that the mounting cup is mounted to. While I have this Archer disassembled I plan to have the cap replated as some of the current plating is spalling off. Thanks, AlArcher radiator cap

    #481273

    Here is another question regarding driving-touring the 1931 Pierce-Arrow Model 42, the subject of this chat. The Pierce-Arrow Society has been most helpful as I have brought this sleeping giant back to driving and operational status. The continual near issue still involves slight over heating. I need to factor in the reality that so far, all my driving and use of the Model 42 has been in the worst heat of our summer, where the coolest day might be mid 90’s and generally near 100 or more. I have flushed the cooling system thoroughly unit the system runs clear water. I have been thinking further. Did any Pierce-Arrow Model for 1931 have a factory installed fan shroud? I think a good part of my heating issue is that, currently, the fan is simply circulating heated engine compartment air and not pulling the air through the radiator core, (no fan shroud). I am considering building a fan shroud to encourage the fan to pull cool air through the radiator core rather than circulating heated engine compartment air around behind the radiator core. Your thoughts, on this subject are appreciated.

    Al

    #481284

    Great car, glad you’re enjoying it!

    On the fuel pump, the best money you could spend on the engine compartment would be to send fuel pump and carb to John Cislak for rebuild.  Changing the jets for modern fuel and using correct gas piping for today’s fuel is critical.  My 1931 runs so much better after doing the above.  I had an electric fuel pump not shut off, nearly burnrd up my car, I don’t care for them at all.

    On your cooling system, measure inside diameter of upper radiator hose.  Get a freeze plug that diameter, drill a 5/8 inch hole in it, and install it in upper hose.  This will eliminate coolant spewing out of cap after a run, and your car will run cooler.

    I’ve been told that’s an old Ford V-8 trick, as they had issues.

    #481285

    Hello David,

    Thanks for your response. I did install a 5/8″ drilled freeze plug against the upper radiator inlet and yes it did help. Not quite so much burping when parking. I also decided to go one step further. I removed the radiator hose casting from the top of the head and machined a recess in order to fit a 160 deg thermostat into it. Our summer heat is starting to subside so driving should not be so nearly at the boiling point. However, if I still feel that an improvement could be made, I will build a fan shroud to force air flow, by the fan, through the radiator and more positively push the heat of the engine compartment out the hood or under the car. I really feel like the fan, without a shroud is just recirculating the engine compartment heated air making it hotter and hotter. Thanks again for the response. The Northern California MODOC tour is next on our agenda for mid September. It is cooler there so I am not as concerned about heating.

    Al

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