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Here is a project Number 1050507
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171253127999?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Seller is asking $37K. Engine turns over but has no compression. Some suspension work done decades ago. Seller hasn’t hooked up a battery to see if electricals work. CA Central Valley car with no rust. Wood is supposed to be in good shape. Pictures tell the rest of the story. Is it worth the money for a Preservation Class car that needs an engine rebuild/tires replaced at minimum?
I would put a retail value on the car at 22k, just my 2 cents. Looks like a very nice car. I would put wire wheels on it if it was mine. 32 is a one year ohly car, I think they are the best all around driving car Pierce made.
It’s Fred Tycher’s old car.
The 1932 Club Bboughm is a very attractive car, just look at how many survived ! And they did drive well. most of the small body cars had 4.08:1 rear gear ratios, so they were relatively quick on the road.. But the brakes required a fairly heavy pedal pressure, at least the ones I’ve driven.
However, any 1933 836 or 1236 is a much better driving car. The steering is lighter, the brakes amazing, the salon models have a right side tail and stoplight. The engine has downdraft carburetion, Hydraulic valve lifters, full flow oil filtration, and many other items I’m just not thinking of right now.
And from a restoration view, there are a least a few items the ’33, ’34, and ’35 share in chrome, interior, engine parts. But no mistake: the ’33 does have many items that are ’33 only. Like the left tail light/gas tank neck and license plate casting.
BUT, while the ’33 Club Broughm is nice looking, it’s not as nice as a ’32. A tough choice if I was having to decide which one to buy. I think with the right paint colors and scheme the ’33 is very attractive.
I think I’d have to go with the ’33 because of its drivability. And more modern engine accessories.
Greg L
Does anyone know any history of this car, now that it has been identified as being once owned by Fred Tysher?
Does that mean that it was in a wetter climate for years and might NOT have good, dry rot free wood structure as the selling company implies ??
Greg L
The photo above and the photo here is of a nice, mostly original ’33 836. I’ve driven the car, and it drives much like my 836 club sedan.
The smaller, lighter Broughm is a bit quicker on acceleration, but more of a challenge to get into the rear seat, ok a much bigger challenge over age 50.
The front end styling of both the ’32 and the ’33 are real head-turning, traffic stopping attractive.
Greg,
Pretty car. Based on the hood ornament, that car obviously can’t make up it’s mind as to whether it is a ’33 Pierce or a ’33 Packard.
Seriously, I have been torn between the 32 and 33 cars. I really like the ’32 dash better and I am a little partial to the lack of the cross bar on the ’33. I guess I will have to get one of each some day.
Since I can’t roll, much less drive mine, I will leave it up to your hands on experience as to the performance issues.
Having failed to sell on eBay @ $37K, this car is now available through British Sports Cars in San Luis Obispo for $38K. Here’s a cut and paste link to the listing, which contains 27 photos of many original elements. Copy & paste this:
http://www.britishsportscars.com/inventory/details.php?id=13441894
I have put down a deposit on the car to hold it till the first week of April; then we compete the deal.
Looks like a great car for preservation. It does look very complete. I was told that it was originally a Texas car but was brought to California some 40 years ago. The previous comments above said it was Fred Tycher’s car. I am only a recent pierce Arrow Society member and don’t know Fred. Does anyone have any more about the history of the car?
The fellow at Britishsportscars said the engine has no compression which may mean new pistons and rings.
I plan to get it running as a preserved car.
Any comments welcome.
Tom Wallace, Dayton, Ohio
I spoke to Tom. It’s great to have a new member who is a hardcore car guy. I’m sure he will have it running soon. Tom, post a few more photos when you can. Thanks, Ed.
Congratulations, Tom, and great choice on keeping it as a preservation car. It should be a fine addition to an annual meet or the Gathering at the Gilmore. Good luck with the mechanicals and please keep us posted.
I completed the deal and I have the title. Hopefully the car will arrive in Dayton, OH in a couple weeks.
The car has no mascot. I found one on Ebay. Is this the correct style mascot for my car?
Thanks
Tom
Bare headed archers started in 31. A 32 archer should be a 2 piece.( archer bolts to the base) and the base should be about 5 3/4″ in diameter, if I am correct. My 33 is a one piece.
Base of archer should say Schnell.
I would google Pierce arrow 1932 archer and look at the images and check the dimensions.
Thanks for everyone’s input.
I’ll research a bit more.
Tom
I finally took delivery of the car! I did an inventory and I am pleased to find indeed it is a complete car. It is a bit dusty and perhaps musty. The upholstery for this most part intact but the carpet is in tatters. All the window shades, door handles, dash gauges, etc. are present. All the trunk rack hardware, sidemount hardware and lamps are present. All the chrome parts are rusty.
I was checking out various data plate numbers; engine compartment firewall tag 437.B.153, radiator tag 693 R, engine crankcase number 700880.
I could not find the number used to tile the car. 1050507.
Is this a frame number or body number? Where would I find it?
Is there a big data plate somewhere? I could not find one on the firewall.
We are going to investigate the engine first. I was told that the engine has not compression and the previous owner could not get it to run.
Much work ahead.
I want to keep this as a preservation car. Please advise me on how to proceed. What is dirt and what is patina? Can I fix rust holes? There is some good rustout at the base of the rear trunk/gas tank area.
I am a newby at preservation cars.
Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH
Hello Tom,
You are learning a lot about your “new” Pierce. The number 1050507 is the chassis number and would have been stamped on an aluminum plate that was riveted to the frame. Often these plates corroded and fell off over the years, but look in the passenger side front wheel well. The plate was about 3″ x 5″ and mounted with 2 rivets near the rear mount for the front leaf spring on the side of the frame. If the plate is gone, you may still see the round headed rivets still there. Replacement plates are available from the CCCA, noted in the Parts and Services Directory. You can buy one, stamp your chassis number into it, and then mount it to the frame. To my knowledge, the chassis number did not appear any where else on the car.
The “Firewall” tag that you saw is the body number. If you look in the back of the PAS Roster, or on the PAS Website under “identification” it will tell you a little about the data on the Body tag, the design number of the car, the body type, and where your body was in the production run.
I think that the “engine” number that you found is the PA Part Number cast into the block. The actual engine serial number was stamped into a small rectangular flat on the driver’s side of the engine at the top of the block, where the cylinder head meets the block, between cylinder 4 & 5. It should be 6 digits starting with 23XXXX.
Happy Motoring
Chris
Congratulations on your “new” car. Earliest entry in the vehicle register version I have is Fred Tycher. Engine number reported is 230528. If you use the identification guide on the home page, you will see photos of the exact location of the engine and VIN.
I did find the vin tag on the right front frame 1050507. The engine number is 230528 while the body number on the right firewall is 437.B.153
Next is to investigate the engine.
By the way, what are the chrome plates above the windshield? I can’t figure those out.
Tom
They are windshield wiper bezels. Enjoy your new toy. Post any questions you may have. Photos help. Ed
I was unable to come to any PAS meets this year. We are in the process of examining the engine. So far there seems to be little damage; perhaps just needs valve adjustment, clean-up, etc. I am hoping.
As I understand, there are going to be a lot of PAS members at the Akron, OH Concours on Sept 21. If I can get the car running, do I just bring the car to the show? I saw on the Concours website that the application deadline was in May. Is the PAS gathering part of the concours or a concurrent event? What should I do if my car awakens from it’s sleep? Should I just trailer it up to Akron?
I also wanted to keep the car as a preserved car. I think there is a difference between dirt and patina. I would like to gently clean the car. The floorboards are essentially bare. Can I install some carpet to cover the wood. That would be essentially all I would do.
All opinions welcome
Tom