adjustable fuel pressure regulator

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Tony,

Was that carburetor called a Ball & Ball because it is an ODD-BALL with TWO stage operation?

If it was a REAL ODD BALL, shouldn’t it be either a; BALL, or a BALL, BALL & BALL?

Don’t you think, eh Tony?

Peter

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Thanks Peter.

We’ve failed to get the Ball & Ball to accept electric fuel pump gas. The

Stude is now equipped with a BB1 and running much better for it. The Ball will

go on the wall.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Tony: Can you remove your vacuum tank from the firewall? or instead of that, can you get the 10 or so screws that hold the pot-metal casting to the steel fuel container loose ? If you want to bring the entire Stewart Warner unit, or just the inside parts that are part of the pot-metal cover, either would be ok.

I will be glad to give it a going over when at the PAS meet in Rohnert Park, or later at the Modoc tour in September.

If you DO decide to bring it, bring along that ‘odd-ball’ Ball&Ball two stage carburetor, I’d like to look it over. !!

Greg Long

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Peter: in regards to messing with the needle protruding from a round-float carburetor, I’d like to dissuade you from suggesting that anyone mess with that adjustment.

The only time that needle needs any adjustment is IF a new float is installed, and I’d bet that 95% of the ‘new’ or different floats will NOT need any needle adjustments for fuel level in the float bowl.

What you probably accomplished by ‘messing with’ that adjustment back and forth was to shake loose some sediment sticking to the needle or seat, or to ‘work’ the brass needle’s tip into and against the brass seat, until it more or less was ‘lapped’ in to seal or to remove some old corrosion from the needle and seat from dried gasoline in the bottom of the float bowl..

For anyone with a ‘normal’ Stewart Warner vacuum tank fuel ‘pump’, if your carburetor needle is not stopping the fuel from gravity flowing over-filling the bowl, just follow this procedure.:

Lift up the needle protruding from the float bowl cover. Some are just a brass pin, the later carbs have a slotted end and a small nut, locking the height of fuel in the float bowl. Lift the needle all the way up, it will have roughly 1/4″ of travel. Then push it down and give the needle a turn with your finger or thumb, applying just some downward pressure then rotating the needle. This will more or less force the needle to seal in the seat. Usually the reason it is no longer sealing is like i mentioned above: some bits of dried fuel from the carb sitting for months and the fuel evaporating, or bits of dirt from the rest of the fuel system.

When you lift the needle all the way up, if fully opens the opening and usually contaminants are washed through the opening in the seat. A tiny piece of dirt will cause this type of needle-seat to leak. And it will leak with the engine not running until the vacuum fuel tank is empty.. That’s over a quart of fuel seeping through the seat, and out the throat of the carburetor, onto the exhaust pipe, or engine pan or garage or trailer floor.

Greg Long

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Thanks Greg. I will bring the offending parts.

Tony

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