Brakes on Travelodge

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What are people doing with brakes on a Travelodge? Converting to electric?

Originally vacuum brakes, vacuum canister actuating a master brake cylinder in trailer, wouldn’t think that’s practical now….

Thanks dc

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And yes, I realize how ironic the question is after my car brake comments; but at the time of manufacture, Pierce cars had vacuum actuated brakes, too, so vacuum trailer brakes made sense then…….

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I’m running the stock set up. It works great. I can provide you an extra vacuum canister and brake check valve if you need it

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OK, thanks, Ed…I’ll get with you on the setup….that’s be great to keep it original….meanwhile, I’ve almost convinced my very understanding wife, who really likes the Travelodge, that we need a 36-38 Pierce to go with it!

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David, this 1703 should pull it just fine! (not my car, just passing along this ad from Hemmings for anyone who may be interested.)

“This remarkable Imperial Salon, 7-passenger, enclosed-drive Opera Limousine model 1703 is one of the finest automobiles ever produced in its time. Powering the car is a 462/182hp V12 engine featuring two down-draft carburetors with functioning dual chokes. This amazing engine runs smoothly. Power is transferred to the rear wheels by a 3-speed manual transmission featuring an automatic overdrive that automatically engages between 40 and 45mph. Driver-assist features include a unique free-wheeling feature along with factory assisted drum brakes. The 17″ original matching artillery-style wheels with chrome beauty rings and matching chrome Pierce 12 hubcaps and new 17” whitewall tires complete the period look. The car is also equipped with dual side mounts. The magnificent interior features original black leather upholstery in the driver’s cab with original tan fabric in the passenger compartment. It features a functioning privacy partition window behind the driver. It also features two fold-up opera-type seats. The original dash is accented in chrome and black with fully functioning gauges. The interior is complimented by original mahogany wood trim. There are privacy shades in the passenger cab windows.

This vehicle comes with immense amount of literature, brochures and documentation; some of which is period specific. Potential for rental income for weddings, anniversaries, proms. Contact Joe at 336-260-6153

Price: $62,500 negotiable”

http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/pierce-arrow/1703/1973465.html#&gid=1&pid=1

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For David: I cannot see a good reason not to retain the OEM brake system, just like we do not “upgrade”” any old car system. Keep it original.

For Stu: I see several major “”authenticity”” problems in the pics of the 1703 – like Segrave!

For all: I would like to find info on OEM Pierce car hitch for the Travelodge and info on the OEM connection to the Pierce brake vacuum system. Any help available out there?”

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I agree with Bob on the 1703. I have never seen a Pierce with a correct pre war hitch on it. I have seen photos of commercially available ones in advertisements. On my car after extensive contemplation………fifteen years, I am going to make a setup that basically goes where the current bumper brackets attach, and go under to the frame also. Just grabbing on to the rear frame horns will NOT work. The frame will flex and bend, and crack. I have seen this from first hand experience on a car that was extensively used to tow some type of trailer pre and post war. The rear frame section on the last series cars look like a modern dump truck, boxed in and X braced, but it still is more flexible than one would imagine.

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I’ve built a LOT of trailer hitches, and snow-plow mounts and other heavy metal fabricated items. I’ve never had a failure of what I built, but have had failures on the vehicles the hitch is attached to. I really over-build my hitches and mounts. It is much easier to do it really well the first time instead of multiple repairs and upgrading the design.

That really makes me cringe when towing is getting on one of our lousy roads, where there are humps and dips in the pavement, that seem to match the wheelbase of the tow vehicle and trailer ‘just right’.. And the trailer starts pulling and pushing on the tow vehicle.. I can just about visualize the frame, hitch, trailer tongue and all the tie-downs on the car in the trailer stretching, flexing, and ‘working’.. It is NOT a pleasant thought process !!

I have never towed a Travelodge, but from everyone I’ve spoken with who has, they say they tow like a dream, and are hardly felt behind the tow vehicle at all. The independant suspension helps, as does the streamlined design, and light weight.

Regarding the brakes, as long as SOME braking is made available, and the towing vehicle is not relying on the trailer the assist in stopping very much, then i’d go with the vacuum setup, But i have to admit, I do not know how the valving worked when it was in use behind a Pierce, or how it would work with a modern vehicle..

in modern vehicles, the vacuum to the power brake booster is usually direct from the intake manifold, and the looser is it’s own reservoir, and has internal valving.. So there must be aftermarket valving available to allow modulation of braking effort and smooth application of braking forces.. i’ll be looking forward to hearing just how this is done.

Greg Long.

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I’d bet few people have seen the vacuum cylinder and master cylinder that actuate the trailer brakes. This combination unit is mounted at the front inside of the trailer, underneath a seat and next to the jack. The jack is also internal to the trailer ( that is, inside the skin).

I have no problem keeping it and restoring, but the tow vehicle will need to have a vacuum fitting and control of some kind. Easy on a late Pierce! Thanks Stu for showing me the perfect tow vehicle!

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David,

I hope you noted that 1703 is Seagrave powered.

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Bob, thanks for heads up, but I’m not really in the market for another car now….my project list is too long and life is too short!

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