Chassis Finish

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Since it looks like I will be able to make my 836 a “roller”, I need to start painting some chassis components. What is the acceptable type of black paint. I have seen mirror like Imron/epoxy, flat black, Bill Hirsch’s “chassis black.”etc.

What guidance is out there?

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The shinier the sheen the more imperfections will standout. Prep Prep Prep. I have used chassis black on all my cars. Bill Hirsch, Eastwood, POR-15 all good products. I am not a PA Pro but Im sure another member(s) will offer more accurate guidance.

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This is Eastwoods Chassis Black Satin

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Pierce Arrow painted their chassis in black gloss.

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Ed and Roger,

Thanks for the responses. I guess my concern is what was “gloss”” in 1933 vs “”chassis black”” in 2015.

Bill”

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While the chassis were painted gloss black, they did not get the extensive metal finishing, priming, filling etc that the body received. A Pierce chassis had probably a primer and a black top coat. You can see tool marks stamping marks, rivet set over strikes etc on a Pierce chassis.

The ‘Salon’ cars, those prepared or made for an Auto show, would probably get some extra cosmetic work done on the paint finish of the chassis.

A Pierce chassis did NOT have the ‘dipped in plastic’ look that too many restoration shops create. It just looks and is wrong.

On some models, the chassis is not hidden under sheet metal, The series 80 last two feet of the chassis is painted gloss black, as are the fenders and splashpans. The heavy steel cover over the gastank is part of the frame, and has the rear spare tire bracket bolted to it.

On Series 81 cars, there is a sheet metal facia over the rear frame/gas tank cover area.

Greg Long.

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I agree with Greg about The “dipped in plastic”” look of powder coating.

Also some powdercoating finishes dull off suprising quickly ( in 4 or 5 years) when subjected to driving use if not kept coated with polish. A darned difficult thing to achieve on all the nooks & cranies of a chassis frame. I made the mistake when younger of having headlight buckets & external metal tool boxes powdercoated. They are now satin despite regular cut & polishing.

Enjoy you snow

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jak.”

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Jak,

Thanks for the feedback. Relative to the snow. I used to live in Cleveland and the year it snowed in 9 consecutive Months I moved south to Atlanta. Last weekend I was on the coast and it was 65 degrees F. We have what we call the Mason- Dixon line here. Basically if you live north of it snow is an issue. South, not so much. My family has been here since the 1600’s and we were always south. Snow is a 4 letter word to be avoided at all cost. The problem I have is ice, which is a different kettle of fish.

Bill

Bill

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Jak,

Maybe the “cut”” before the “”polish”” caused the powder coat to take on a satin finish.

I don’t think that you can buff out powder coat because it is not officially “”paint.””

I believe it is a thermoplastic or a thermoset polymer.

Maybe you need toothpaste or a plastic polish to make it shine.

What do you think mate?

Peter

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G’day Peter

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You are right I can only get results with a T-Cut type abrasive polish. The modern plastic polishes would work. The problem with powdercoating is if you want to remove it. Some years ago I had some wire wheels done & later I decided to change color. What is usual is that a light sbrasive blasting was done & then recoated. The underlying black bled thru the new lighter color. The company then put the wheels over a “slow” fire to soften the coatings before blasting!!!!! VERY unprofessional!! I asked why they did not use their oven to soften it. Answer: Not hot enough. All the spokes came loose during usage & I had to have them rebuilt. I have stuck with “Normal” paint coatings ever since. eg PPC, etc. The “making better than it was when new” mind set has its pitfalls!

Bill!!! Your family were over there EVEN BEFORE Australia was discovered!!! What can I say?

Cheers -jak.

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To be truly authentic make sure there are plenty of runs in the paint, don’t fill in the mill scale pits or grind down the weld splatter. At first I thought the pits in my ’35 were rust but when I sanded down there was original red lead primer in the pits. I think the bare parts were sprayed with red lead primer but the final black was done after at least partial assembly. There are places such as under the spring hangers that the black was shadowed out with only red showing, so apparently the final paint coat on the frame was done after the springs were installed. The original chassis paint looks like it was a quick job done with plenty of runs when at least partially assembled. For those getting their cars judged, perhaps there should be a point deduction for chassis finished too well.

Having only a single car to study, I have wondered whether the earlier cars were finished better underneath but standards suffered as the company sank towards bankruptcy in the mid ’30’s.

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The undercarriage is indeed judged. There is a specific line item, scored 0 to 5 points, for “Physical Appearance of Undercarriage, Splash Pans”. “Every effort effort should be made to ascertain the general appearance and maintenance of the undercarriage as far as reasonably possible. Absent splash pans or belly pans on vehicles prior to 1920 are cause for mandatory deduction”.

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The basic, underlying premise for judging in the PAS is for the car to be like it was when delivered to the purchaser.

So the underside of the car should be free of oil leaks, clean, and have correct fasteners, paint appearance and generally just look like a new car. An exception is in the judging rules for the exhaust system, they don’t look new even a month after they are installed and the car driven. So if the exhaust has correct hangers and clamps, is the right configuration, it’s ok if it’s rusty. but not rusted through.

If when a judge looks under the car, and shines a flashlight around, if the reflection off the ‘plastic look’ paint on the frame blinds him/her, then points may be deducted for over restoration.

Greg Long

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Hi,

I had to make a decision on how much work I would put into the frame. The metal they used was very pores, plus the normal wear of being as old as it is. ( My body, feels those same wear and tears as the 29) lolol

Anyway, I had to decide if I was goign to make the frame perfect. It would have cost me additonal two weeks of shop labor. The team and I decided to smooth out the major impections and make it nice but not perfect. The majority of the 29’s frame will be hidden unless you crawl underneath. I decided to let the frame be a shade less than perfect with some imperfections show on the sides that are totally hidden.

My opinion, unless you are making a pebble beach car, or doing it yourself, some $$$$$$ for perfection might be overkill. Remember, you might actually want to drive this car. After one drive, your pebble beach car won’t be up to snuff any more.

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BRAVO!

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