Cowling Needed

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Here is a potential for heavy head bolts

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130337632467?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

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David, im glad you mentioned these bolts. I have been looking around for some similar to the originals but have not had any success. I do have 4 good originals but wanted to send the steering wheel maker all 6 so I just purchased all new ones for him to use while building it. I am really hoping to find 2 more similar to the originals.

William or Peggy? Thanks for the link, I will definitely be looking into it. As a new member and new to the restoration world, thanks all who have been responding. I have learned a lot in a short period of time. Of course I still have a lot to go so keep them coming please.

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Hello Charles,

Great project. I envy the shop. Here in California I am lucky to have a garage to store my Pierce Arrow.

I have been watching the thread as your project is coming along. I recently had to order some High Head Bolts and here is a link to Restoration Supply in Escondido, CA. They are very responsive and send items out as soon as you order.

Look at page 40 and I am sure you will find what you are looking for.

http://www.restorationstuff.com/pdf/RestorationSupplyCompany.pdf

Take care,

Ken

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The bolts in a steering hub are the opposite of the norm. They have a very short head, about .150-.200? not tall heads like the ones everywhere else on the cars..

Some steering wheels and flat head, slotted screws with a ring with recessed holes for the screws. The threads are fine threads, in aluminum which is a recipe for galled threads and broken bolts.

Charles, how long is the threaded portion of the steering shaft? The threads should be 5/8″ or 3/4″ long. if the hub has too small a tapered bore, it won’t go on the shaft far enough. you might not have the right hub. post a photo of the end of the steering shaft.

Greg

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Hi Charles, I looked at the ‘before’ photos of your hub on the other thread about removing the steering hub. I see that your original bolts have the very short head like I described above, you can grind your new bolt’s heads down to match the old ones. There probably is not room for the taller bolt heads, they might run into the bottom of the levers on the column.

Do you have a parts manual for either the Series 80 or 81? They are a wealth of information. With excellent line drawings.

I made bound reprints of the s80 parts manual, just the illustrations, since about 2/3 of the manual is a listing of actual part numbers, which are obsolete now. Let me know if you want a copy.

I’ll try to go get the cowl out of the trailer-full of body parts and chassis. and get a photo of it for you.

Greg Long

This image is from a ’29 parts manual, but it shows the detail and quality of the parts illustrations.

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The threaded end of the steering shaft looks broken off, I suspect you will have to braze on a piece of tubing and thread it.

There are two hollow shafts or tubes that fit inside each other, and slide down through the inside of the steering shaft, and out the bottom of the steering box, the top of the tubes have a two-pointed plate on their ends, that match the recess in the two aluminum levers you have. one is spark the other throttle.

The ends of the two tubes that protrude out the bottom of the gear box have a few splines cut or stamped into them, there are two levers that clamp on the shafts, to attach the spark and throttle linkage to.

Hmm, one is a lever, it is for the spark linkage, the other is an eccentric, that rubs agains the spring-pin on the throttle belcrank mounted on the bottom of the steering box.

Greg

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Greg,

The steering wheel shaft is broken at the threads. I have less then 1/4″ of threads. What you see in this picture is all there left.”

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I haven’t taken a picture of the rod once I removed the hub yet, I will do that tomorrow. I do have the hollow shafts and aluminum levers but nothing from there up. Here’s a picture of what I have.

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Here is a side view.

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Better one.

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Hi Ken,

Thanks for the link, I am sure it will come in handy. My shop is a bit cluttered as I always have too many projects but I’ve gotten used to it. I live in the country just outside of Superior WI, pretty peaceful and lots of room.

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Greg,

I forgot to mention that Paul has sent me a parts catalog but I haven’t seen it yet. Should be here by Wednesday he thought. Thanks for the offer though.

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Greg,

The Fleet Arrow has a dedicated parts manual and a hard copy is on its way to Charles. Comparing the part numbers between this manual and the Series 80/81 will allow us to identify truck unique parts versus passenger car items.

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Hi Paul, if you can make another hard copy of the Fleet Truck parts manual, I’d love to have one for my reference library.

Let me know what the cost will be,

Thanks,

Greg Long

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Hood doors began with the 1929 Model 143 and also a group of 1929 Model 133’s that were equipped like a Model 143.

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Gents,

BTW, Restoration Supply sells High Head Hex bolts.

They are pricy, but they are available.

Peter

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I have an update on the cowl measurements. Here is the other truck measurements.

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According to the specs I received from Paul today it looks like everything is where it is supposed to be on my truck except the windshield/front of cab should be 12″ back to allow for the cowl. It almost looks to me like someone may have cut the front of a cowl of just behind the bevel where the hood sits and added a thick piece of steel for additional support. Im not sure if that was the case or if it was a different cab builder at the time. The dash is original looking at the parts catalog but funny thing is all the gauges are upside down and the dash was mounted upside down. It was screwed into the underside of the horizontal board in this photo. Fits perfect lengthwise also.”

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It appears in the parts catalog that the back of the cowl should be even with the shifter and would cover up the triangular shaped mounts if you looked at it from the side. My truck clearly was built, or modified, with the front of the cab/hinge of the doors further forward then everything I am seeing. I really want to restore this back to its original shape but this cab is a real challenge. If anyone has any more information or thoughts I would love to hear them.

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Charles,

Perhaps a previous owner moved the front of the cab forward to obtain more leg room, as if your truck is supposed to be like the Series 80 / 81 cars, there is precious little leg room.

If it was moved forward, there should be bolt holes in the chassis showing the original position, as in that piece of steel shown in your photo that is bolted to the frame and moves forward and then drops to attach to the front of the cab.

Also consider if that piece is reverse mounted.

If you reverse it by moving it to the driver’s side, and vice versa, will you get the extra space you need to fit a cowl before the cab?

Peter

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