Down to the last bolt. Now the fun begins

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Edgar,

What did you mean by upgrading the hinges? The hinge itself or the mounting fasteners? Jim

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The fasteners. As well as adding braces to the doors to prevent twisting and warping. Holding doors on with wood screws is a poor idea. We machine new bolts that look like screws and secure them using a steel backing plate with nuts welded on the back. Often touring cars have worn out driver door hinges. They often need to be recast as they are difficult to repair. It’s difficult for people with little experience in coach building to properly restore these cars. Most shops can paint well, getting correct panel fit and body alignment is difficult. It’s common to see cars with nice paint and poor body gaps, hood alignment issues, and other problems when modern shops do cars of this vintage. To get everything correct, one usually needs to assemble and disassemble the car several times to get everything right.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Also, you need to fix the front seat back to body connection, as they were poorly designed and will cause metal to split and the lid to sag. ( The wood often is settled and out of position.) The vertical door post where it attaches to the sill also needs to be improved. Often there are issues that will not get addressed by people who are not familiar with this type of body style. Also, to prevent body rattles and squeaks, contact areas between the wood joints and cast and steel body braces need to be addressed. It’s common that a car with a total restoration will rattle and squeak because the body men don’t understand these cars. I can think of several 100 point Pierce Arrow’s that shake, rattle, and flex when going down the road.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Thanks, I’ll make sure to check those areas when the body goes back on.

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