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What 6v pump is now commonly being used? The old clicker pumps are gone, I guess. I have a carter 152-1291 that has ceased to function.
Thanks
Ed Johnson
Low pressure 6 volt pumps are available from Mac’s Model T parts. I bought one to try on my Pierce, haven’t installed yet.
NAPA P-4269 (2-6 lbs) comes in a NAPA box but with a Carter sticker on the unit. It is likely not the shelf but they can have it for you in a day or two. Also, at $60-65 (last one purchased 2 yrs ago), that pump is about half the price I was quoted elsewhere.
You can try it without a pressure regulator, and if your carb floods, use a Holley #12-804 regulator which is far superior to the cheap detent models made overseas under the Purolator name. The Holley regulator can be found at performance auto parts stores.
I have had nothing but problems with the NAPA P-4259. That is my number NOT P-4269. I have tried several with no success. When they sit for a while on the car they will not start up unless you tap them with a hammer.
You can get a SC Delco No. EP11 (GM# 6414670) 6V. Check for E8011 on Amazon. I am told you can also buy them from Advance Auto Parts but I have not tried. Look on the pump to be sure it is 6V. You can use a pressure reducer if you want to.The pump in the Delco box says 5-8 PSI
Gene Reeves
It is AC Delco not SC
Gene, I’m truly sorry you’ve had problems with THREE P-4259 pumps. You’re right, the “4269” is a typo and I should have caught it–my apologies.
Having to tap the pumps to get them going seems to be an indication of bad electrical connections, especially on three separate units, unless Carter’s (the manufacturer of my P-4259s sold by NAPA) quality control is very bad indeed. The P-4259 and other rotary vane pumps are not grounded through the bracket to the frame, as are the EP-11 pulse-style or diaphragm-style pumps, but use a separate grounding wire from a post on the pump. I drill a hole for the ground, remove paint around the hole, use a self-tapping metal screw–AND put a star washer under the screw to bite into the grounding surface.
I’ve had these P-4259 pumps on three cars for at least six and up to ten years with not a single issue.
The P-4259 instructions as to positive and negative leads are for negative ground cars, and our Pierces are positive ground. You may try reversing the connections.
Also note that the EP-11 pumps draw only about 4 amps, whereas the rotary vane pumps draw twice that, so a marginal ground on a rotary vane pump may be more troublesome.
Here’s why I no longer use EP-11 style pumps: One cannot tell from looking at the pump (or even the box–and it may have been re-boxed) whether the diaphragm material is designed with ethanol in mind. That is, when was the pump built or how fresh is it? On one of my “lesser cars”, a 1949 Willys Jeepster, an EP-11 would no longer pump fuel after 5,000 miles and 10 years. I removed the diaphragm cover and found that the diaphragm had turned to mush (the best term I can think of at the moment), and at the time I could find neither a source of replacement diaphragms nor any vendor who would guarantee that his new EP-11 contained a diaphragm that was resistant to ethanol. This information is three years old, so perhaps now EP-11s that are factory ethanol-resistant may be so marked.
I’d be interested in knowing of a vendor of ethanol-resistant diaphragms for EP-11 pumps, because I have three I haven’t thrown out yet!
Best wishes on getting a pump that’s reliable, and I’m sorry about your bad experience.
Best regards,
George
George, After putting the EP-11 pump on I no longer use the electric pump except to prime the carb. after sitting for awhile. I drove the entire meet in MI this yesr without using the electric pump and you know in hot weather like we had cars tend to vapor lock requiring use of the electric pump.
I have been told that a rotary vane pump like the NAPA ones can stop at the wrong place and require bumping so the fuel can flow with the mechanical pump.
I have always had problems with my PA touring using these Carter Napa pumps and this is the first time I have had no problems with this new pump installed. I do not think it is a wiring ground problem because I too clean the frame and use a star washer. You could have a point with reversing the leads to the pump. But I can tell you I am through with the Napa pumps since my car is running so well and I have no reason now to experiment.
I assume you are not talking about the old Walbro or Dupree pulsating type pump that was sold by JC Whitney and others. The EP-11(E8011 on the pump) is totally sealed and no way to get into the pump without destroying it. (On re-reading your response I think you and I may be talking about different pumps. Look on the internet for E-8011 6V electric fuel pumps and you will see it is a cylindrical about 2 3/4″ dia. and 2 1/2″ long pump with fittings on each end for a hose type fitting. Hose, fittings,and clamp connectors are included.)
Here is an Ebay auction for the Airtex E8011 pump. I put one on my ’34 and after about four years it slowly quit producing pressure. I cut it apart to see why and the check valve and spring had turned about 90 degrees from the normal position and thus were leaking.
I noticed in the instructions that they talk about mounting the pump in a vertical position and mine was horizontal. I’ve replaced it with the same pump, but if I get the chance later this year I’m going to reorient it so that it is more vertical than it is now.
I hope the link works ok.
I and others have used dual fuel lines, a separate one to the electric pump, and another to the standard factory mechanical pump. We also use a check valve in each line to prevent either pump from flowing gas back to the tank.