Fleet Arrow Wagon Steering Wheel Hub Removal

[Charles Friend]

Can anyone give me some hints on removing the steering wheel hub from my 1928 fleet Arrow Wagon. Also, does anyone have a contact for rebuilding wooden steering wheels?

[Charles Friend]

Pic

[Bill Lyons]

Can you get a picture looking up the column form the steering box so we can see the back side?

[Gregory Long]

Is your Fleet Arrow based on a S80 or S81 chassis? If so, the steering wheel hub is probably Aluminum.

They tend to really stick to the steel steering shaft.

I’ve used heat from a hot-air gun to heat the aluminum hub, then drove it off using a shaped wooden block to protect the aluminum hub.

I made a wood block, carefully cut and shaped like a bowl with a 2″ slot on one side to fit closely against the back of the aluminum hub, then made an adapter to a universal hub or pulley puller to fit behind the wood block and push against the steering column with the puller’s center threaded bolt.

Does your steering box turn freely? or is it very stiff or locked up? If it is the same steering box as a Series 80, which has a worm and sector system, the input bushing for the steering shaft is made of pot metal . The pot metal swells and seizes the steering shaft. A common problem with the Series 80 steering box.

I have replacement steering shaft input bushings made from brass to replace the zinc/pot metal bushing.

Post a photo of your steering gear box, and I can identify it from the photo. Also, please post a photo of the engine, some Fleet Arrow trucks used the passenger car engine, some used a different engine.

Hope this helps,

Greg Long

[Charles Friend]

Thanks guys, my truck is a series 81 I believe. Here is the steering box.

[Charles Friend]

Underside photo

[Charles Friend]

I can get more photos of engine if needed but here is the only one on my phone now.

[Charles Friend]

I am also looking for the remaining parts for the horn. Here is a picture of all the parts I have.

[Charles Friend]

Here is another photo of the steering box.

[Charles Friend]

The pipe has threads, could the aluminum hub be screwed on?

[Charles Friend]

One last thing, I took the steering box apart and loosened up the shaft as it was frozen. It is freed up now and works good.

[Bill Lyons]

Looks like it has a woodruff key so it would slide on. The threads probably hold It on. Since the nut is off, it might be stuck on the shaft. I would soak it in Kroil or acetone/automotive transmission fluid. I think patience is you best tool. Soak, tap lightly with a hammer, repeat

[Peter Williams]

Charles,

Contact Wayne or Marc Hancock for the horn assembly parts.

They may still have some that they reproduced.

Also, as Bill pointed out, soak that sucker with Kroll, PB-Blast or acetone / ATF and be careful, as you do not want to dent the aluminum.

Peter

[Charles Friend]

Thanks All, this is great information.

[Ken Arritt]

Charles,

Looks like the same engine I have in my Series 80.

Ken

[David Coco]

Wooden steering wheel rebuild, I think I have a card somewhere, Snyder? perhaps, has done a couple of wheels for me, nice work, I’ll see if I can find his contact info…

[Charles Friend]

Thanks David, look forward to hearing from you.

[David Stevens]

Stuzman Wheel Shop Ltd., Noah Stutzman

33656 Co. Rd. 12, Baltic, OH 43804 330-897-1391

They do beautiful work at reasonable prices. I won’t go to anyone else as the results I’ve experienced have been awesome. Hard to find following a GPS, but worth the effort.

Dave Stevens – 231-740-6610

[David Coco]

Yes, thanks Dave, that’s it! He’s done a couple of steering wheels for me, super nice work, and as you mention, very reasonable…at least I knew it started with an S!!

[Charles Friend]

I will give them a call, thanks guys.

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