Help and advice needed.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I would like to thank everyone on this site for their help and advice. Over the last 15 days I have been up and down on this car. One thing I have concluded is that I probably overpaid for it. Not the first time and probably not the last time. Car and unpaid storage was $120k. I am going to list it for sale on the PAS and then if no luck will move on to others. Will ask $100.

At least I saved it from the ot rod shop out front of the storage building.

Again, thanks for the help.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

John, thank you for saving the ’35 convertible coupe-roadster from the awful fate of a Chevy V8 and a Turbo-Hydramatic transmission.

Your car is quite rare, and very desirable. I’m sure you know how, but if not, remove the spark plugs and squat half a cup of ATF/Acetone 50/50 mix in each cylinder. And if you have time, remove the valley covers over the camshaft, and douse the cam and lifters with ATF/Acetone mix.

This is the first and often the only step needed to free up a stuck engine. BUT do NOT run it if it breaks free. The cam and lifters need attention first, before the engine is started. and the oil pan should be dropped, the oil pump screen cleaned, and the pan cleaned. For me, I also drop the connecting rod caps and inspect the babbitted rod bearings. Just insurance to not start and run an engine needing a little work, and making it into an engine needing a LOT of work,

Take care,

Greg Long

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Thanks Greg,

Several members warned me about making sure that the oil lines at the

rods were clear. Great club.

Johnny

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hi Johnny, I wish there was not 2600 miles between us, I’d love to wake up your car from it’s long sleep.

I want to revise my suggestions from my last post.

I have had several instances that a valve stem is rusted, and stuck in the valve guide. The cam lobe is on the ‘upstroke’, and cannot move the lifter or valve, and this ‘locks’ the engine.

So I will change my suggestion of ‘if you have time’ to ‘you should’ remove the two big nuts on the two-part valley cover over the cam. And take a look at the cam lobes, they can get rusty-crusty. Squirt the cam and valve springs, valve stems inside the springs, and lifters liberally with the ATF/Acetone mixture.

I’ve gone so far as to gently ‘Scotch-Brite’ the exposed cam lobes to remove surface rust and coat them with a grease of assembly-lube that will stay in place during the first few minutes of starting and running.

I have a ‘Bore-Scope’, a fiber-optic camera with light that I use to look inside a cylinder, to inspect for rust, debris, or ?? They are fairly reasonably priced at Harbor Freight, the one I recommend is the more expensive one, it has a much smaller camera and light than the lesser priced one.. I think the one I have cost about $200 at the time, the ‘cheap’ one was ~$90. But well worth the extra for the smaller camera,larger screen, photo ability etc..

Ok, let us know how things go.

OH, if you send me as many photos you can to [email protected], I’ll shop the car around for you.

Greg Long

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Thanks to everyone for their comments, emails and calls. This car is

headed to a new owner and a great restoration shop.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Congratulations John, that was a quick sale ! The car’s desirability showed in the quick sale.

And, congratulations to the new owner. John, if the new owner is not a member of the Pierce Arrow Society, please mention to him the valuable services we provide to our members.

Greg Long

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Better yet, give him a membership form OR buy him a membership if he seems reluctant.

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Congrats on the sale.

Too bad you had to take a hit on the deal but a very significant car was saved from an uncertain future.

Hopefully the new owner joins the PAS.

It would benefit him greatly during his restoration if he does.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I will personally buy a PAS membership, if needed………

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

A director of the Pierce-Arrow Society can offer a complimentary one year membership to a “new”” Pierce-Arrow owner.”

[Author]

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