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try putting small steel parts in molasses; removes the rust pretty nicely.
Good idea about the dip!
Well, living in Virginia…I’m born and reared Louisiana style, and my heart is still there….
You can get cheaper molasses by going to a livestock feed store or a Tractor Supply, they sell “feed grade molasses”….
Reminds me of the farmer’s wife baking cookies, the Papa Mole stuck his head out of the burrow’s hole and said “I smell cookies!”. The Mama Mole squeezed beside him and said “I smell cookies too!” The Baby Mole, not able to get by his parents to the top, said “Darn, all I smell are molasses…..”
Only David could come up with a joke like that. Keep ’em coming!
I got my feed grade molasses from the Webstaurantstore.com as I remember. The shipping was more than the 5 gallons of goop. Our “local” (I live 8 miles from the White House) Tractor Supply, which is out near Mr. Wozney’s place, doesn’t have it in stock. What does everyone use for getting rid of the grease and grime? For the Pierce parts, I use paint grade kerosene to minimize damage to the parts. Then it is off to the walnut shells in the vibrator. Looking for something faster if possible.
Kerosene is OK; try odorless white mineral spirits, esp. for small items where you won’t need much. lacquer thinner will cut most anything; of course the Old Reliable is unleaded regular gas but it requires the obvious amount of care.
Can’t beat a glass bead cabinet for cleaning parts. Also walnut shells blast grime and paint away but usually won’t damage any metal. Never tried it but I always wanted to see how well I could clean up the underside of an old car with walnut shells.
I like the vibrating cleaner option: sporting goods stores sell them to clean used cartridges for reloading; Harbor freight has a couple of unknown-to-me quality.
I have put small greasy parts in a small container and put in whatever solvent was handy and some small nuts (or bolts) and shook it until everything was cleaned.
Bill,
How much did you have to thin your Performix Plasti Dip to spray it? Mine is pretty thick, but does leave a nice coat with one dip. Jim
Randy,
Thanks for the input. I haven’t tried walnut shells, just glass beads.
Jim,
I was able to get a spray version at Home Depot. You can apply multiple coats to get the required thickness.
Bill
Years ago I approached Lynne Steel to do the hood corners for my 1936. He was glad to do this and he also did everything I sent him to repro for the 1936. He told me, later, it was a money losing effort. Anyway, the metal cores, for the corners used on the 1936 through 1938 are much different than the ones used on the 1934-1935, and earlier. I asked Lynn if he would these? A polite “NO.” Next, I noticed that Metro Rubber made an identical rubber covering for the ’36-’38 corners.
The front pieces are what I needed. I contacted Metro and was connected to Tom Noyes-in charge of “new projects.” Tom just said, “send me your cores and I’ll see what I can do.” Of course, I had to buy two sets of the 1936 covers to be attached to my “old cores.” What I got back was something out standing-perfect! I asked Tom if he would do this for other PAS members-“SURE” was his reply. I ran an ad in the Emporium to this effect; but, don’t know if anyone took advantage of the project?
Photo: To the left is a hood corner for a 1934-35. On the right is what Metro offers for the 1936-38.
Tom also said “don’t” clean the old corners.
Sooo, possibly, some one should contact METRO to see if this service would still be available? When they returned the finished product, included were the back rubber pieces that couldn’t be used.
