key for pierce arrow

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Looking for a key or locksmith for
1929 Pierce Arrow Sedan

Model 133

Motor No. A-899

Serial No. 2000458

Code Body 125-S-353

Ignition key.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you,

Kelly

 

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<p style=”text-align: left;”>Kelly,</p>
I assume that you don’t have ANY KEY, correct?

The correct key for a 1925 Series 80 car is a: Y6.

I don’t know if your car takes the same Blank, but if you do not have a key, you do need a Locksmith.

If you might look on the Parts section of the Emporium to see what is listed.

Alternately, you can see Who has a ‘29 and contact one of those people to see what they have as a key

Peter

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I have 3 seriese 80 with keys and none are interchangable

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Although it is likely unusual to have such an intact Series 80, my car, which has been in the family since 1928, uses the Same Key for; the Door Lock (right-side front-door only, no lock on left), the Rear Spare Tire Carrier lock, the Ignition and anything else that requires a key.

The replacement key blank is a Y6, which is commonly available.

Getting this all straightened out required some; significant patience, internet searching and fortitude.

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https://forums.aaca.org/topic/230045-for-sale-1929-1931-studebaker-ignition-and-steering-column-lock-cylinder-an-keys-custom-made/#comment-1199646

Try this add from AACA.  Purchased one a year or 2 ago as they still had some available. Just installed last week.  Works great.

James

 

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My ’24 model XB truck has dual ignition and probably the same Yale key blank.  Buy a few Y6 key blanks.  Take out the cylinder and carefully dissemble it.  Be sure not to lose any of the parts.  This is a pin tumbler type lock and as such it is quite difficult to make a new key (as opposed to a “wafer” type lock) without taking the lock apart.  Once you have it apart install the drive pins and insert an uncut key.  Take a small (I use a triangular) file and file a flat section directly beneath each drive pin until the top of the pin is exactly flush with the top of the cylinder barrel.  It doesn’t matter what order you install the drive pins but be sure to match the drive pins to the small lock pins.   Take the new key out and place the lock pins in the cylinder on top of the little springs, in the correct order.  Now, this is the really fun part; chasing after the springs and lock pins after they jump out of the bores, land somewhere either on the floor where gremlins will steal them or fly off into outer space, never to be seen again.  If you haven’t given up by now press on and after you’re gotten the first drive pin, lock pin depressed in its hole take a 1/2″ wood or steel dowel and carefully slide it into the bore so as to hold down the first assembly.  Keep doing this with each tumbler until you have them all in place.  Now, turn the cylinder 90 degrees with the key in place and push the guide dowel out the back.  If you’ve lost a pin assembly, it’s no big deal, you don’t really need all the pins anyway.  When trying to make a new key for my lock I invented some colorful new words, but they didn’t really seem to help so I’ll leave that up to you.

Of course, you could always take it to a locksmith for a hundred bucks, or so but I figured at my usual rate of a penny and hour I saved fifty cents………………..

 

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