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David,
Thank you for posting the article. I have printed it and will read it now.
Ken
Alan, I’m waiting to verify engine numbers and see if the engine is correct. Also, it depends somewhat on what he’s asking for the engine, as it would just be bought to “be” with car, I would not plan to rebuild and install.
I’ve always been somewhat of a purist, so I like the idea of having it. Cords are fairly easy to document, and while I’m not a fan of the overused term “matching numbers”, that’s what we’re talking about.
David, I am still on the edge of my seat waiting for your “rest of the story”, (on the Cord engine). This is just like waiting for the closing scene to a right good movie…..will he or won’t he?
Al
Alan, thanks for interest! I realize this is off topic for a Pierce forum…. I’m waiting to hear a price, to make a decision….if he has a numbered engine, easy enough to verify if it came in my car from the factory, as the body tag (see picture) shows engine number.
Alan, thanks for interest! I realize this is off topic for a Pierce forum…. I’m waiting to hear a price, to make a decision….if he has a numbered engine, easy enough to verify if it came in my car from the factory, as the body tag (see picture) shows engine number.
I, too, am curious to see if your car gets reunited with its original engine.
I always felt this forum needed an ‘Other Makes’ forum so members could discuss non-Pierce related stuff like this.
I feel it would keep more members logging in regularly which in turn would drive more traffic to the Pierce side of things.
Let us know how your Cord engine adventure progresses.
The Model T forum has an option to mark a discussion OT (off topic) so that just about any other car can be discussed….
Cord engine being reunited is dependent on price, I just don’t want to put a lot of money just for an engine to be sitting there, even though I love the idea of keeping history together.
Hey, we could also do a “fund me” function for Pierce guys, to help the needy (me needy) pay for such things!
Actually, I’m considerably teasing about that, I never have liked some of the fund me activity that goes on, if you can’t afford something, then asking them on line to help pay for it is just fancy street corner begging….
Craig and David,
I agree with the two of you that it would be nice to have a open forum page for any model of car. It would draw more interest to the Pierce Arrow site. I look forward to hearing the outcome also on the Cord engine. I have never contributed to a go fund me page but I would consider contributing to this topic.
Ken
Gents,
Talk about a hijacked discussion!
How do Cord cars’ engines relate to LED headlight bulbs?
Fill me in because I am quite curious.
Peter
Hello Peter, I am just glad that you had the for-site to initiate this conversation about LED lighting for our Pierce-Arrow cars. I plan to use the knowledge that I have learned in a very positive fashion to benefit my P-A project. Fortunately, that information can also be used in a number of different ways. Now about the hijacking, we must all be a bunch of old Geezers who can’t keep our minds focused for very long. Please excuse our/my deviation, on this chat about LED lighting updates, and be danged, if my mind didn’t slip a cog and be interested in what one of our brother P-A guys may be dealing with. I sure enjoy this hobby, the P-A forum and you fellows here!
Al
Alan,
I have done the same thing, hijacking, that is, and others have pointed out the tangential chit-chat.
I agree with their idea of staying on topic, and now when I feel the need to go asunder, I send an email to my fellow partner in the hijack.
It makes it better for the group interested in the original posting to not have to scroll through it to find if the offerings ever returned to the original.
Accept my apology if I went off track, but you may know, I have a slightly used vintage bridge to sell and if anyone on this discussion is interested in buying it, they should be in touch in care of my Brooklyn address.
Peter
Gents,
Talk about a hijacked discussion!
How do Cord cars’ engines relate to LED headlight bulbs?
Fill me in because I am quite curious.
Peter
This came up because of a side comment I made, read the entire thread, the LED and other bulb discussion had me post a three page article on new light for old cars, and it happened to be an article from the Auburn-Cord-Duesenberg Club. If my mentioning of a Cord offends anyone on this thread, then I apologize, was passing on information and got sidetracked.
This is a great forum and I don’t want to do anything that harms it….dc
This discussion about LED bulbs in antique cars is interesting but in the end,they just do not look right.A friend who shows very beautiful Model A Fords in national meets tells me the judges look through the lens at the headlight bulbs to see if they had the ridges in the glass like headlight bulbs had when Model A’s were new and not the later type.A halogen or LED would certainly cost points.I have driven many times an antique car at night with stock bulbs and never had problems with seeing.My 1929 133 Roadster has NOS ribbed glass Edison Mazda 21cp bulbs in her headlamps and these lights on high will blind you.These are the bulbs called for to use in the headlamps and they are visible looking into the McKeelite lens.Many earlier cars have a resistance dimming system and the use of LED’s might not even be compatible with such systems so as to lose your lights entirely when dimming the lamps.Not all domestic LED’s work with dimmers.
Couple of Comments.
I had a Hupp Aerodynamic that went to Ga Tech a few years back (Raymond Loewy designed car). It had a three position headlight switch for city, country, and High beam, or something like that. Did Pierce ever have this same three position headlight system? Was it available on other cars?
David,
Could you please send me a pdf of the article? My eyes can’t read that detail from the picture.
All,
I saw David’s Cord. The current engine runs too well to replace it. I would NOT want to deal with that transmission. It is pretty clunky.
Bob
One must remember that many of if not all resistance dimming systems work by cutting the voltage in half when dimming the lamps so 6 volts would become 3 volts to the bulbs when in dim position.Halogen bulbs put out alot of heat and this could crack a rare lens.
The only problem I saw with mentioning the Cord was it wasn’t a L-29.
Bob,
My Series 80 has a multi-position light switch.
If I recall correctly, they operate as follows.
The First position turns on just the tail lights.
The Second position turns on the “City” lights, which turns on the tail lights and the small / top bulb in the headlight reflector.
The Third position turns on the low beam (and not the top bulb).
The Fourth position turns on the high beams (and not the top bulb).
On the back of the switch assembly there is a resistor (coil of bare stiff steel wire) that is likely how the low beam is lit by cutting the amps going to the headlight bulb.
Peter
This is an interesting and back on topic conversation about the theory behind how the light systems work, two bulb and one bulb. For those of us that are really involved with the show aspect and of driving our cars we have one particular idea, whereas those others that may want better lighting, less amp draw etc, the LED upgrade is certainly a consideration. I am very interested to hear of actual success, near success or failure of the LED feature working in a one bulb P-A system. Yup, it may be a compromise, but compromise is all around our hobby as we move forward in step with Father time. I will not hold my 1935 12 off the road if I can’t find or afford the lofty price for “proper” 1935 headlight lenses, (compromise on the lenses). Good conversation here! Thanks everyone for sharing your “wit and wisdom”.
Al
The lenses on these earlier cars were designed for a specified bulb in order to get a proper beam pattern.Modern bulbs while brighter may not be compatible with the lens so there could be useless light or even blinding light.There are in some cases differences in filament design between the bulbs available in the past and what is available today.A good example is the number 1129 21cp which was specified for Pierce Arrow headlamps prior to very late 1929.This bulb had a V shaped filament but later this bulb had a design change to a more flat filament as #1129 was no longer used for headlights or spotlights which required a focus but now was used for stoplights on six volt cars like the pre-1967 Volkswagens where such optics were not a concern.Even some of the new headlight bulbs sold by the antique car parts dealers have a different filament shape from what was available years ago.I have noticed on the edges of lenses a notation of the Mazda bulb number to be used with that lens.If one needs more light a very good solution might be clamp on lights on the bumper bar that could be removed for a show and the same could be done for the rear of the car in an easily removed light bar.
I am glad that the PAS judging is not so persnickety as Bill described the Model A judging.
For the PAS, if the bulb is behind the correct lens and in a correct reflector. I cannot imagine any point deductions for a non-original bulb. The most important thing is that the headlights work!!
I think [guessing] that with the Model A club, the cars are simple enough that the judges have to really stretch to find something to be fussy about. I’ve heard stories about some clubs judging that the slotted head fasteners should all line up. Ridiculous ! All but completely custom-ordered, custom-built cars were production cars. I cannot imagine men assembling a car trying to line up the slots in screw-heads.. I also cannot imagine a customer ordering their car to have all the slots point in the same direction!! Maybe it was offered by the now-defunct ‘OCD Motorcars International” company ??
I for one, do not find out headlight output adequate for most driving, I welcome an LED option for our single filament cars, those are pre-1930 I think, certainly the teens and ’20’s cars used single filament bulbs.
Brighter brake and taillights are also an important item.
Greg Long