muffler

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Hello, i am looking for a muffler for my 1926 series 33 touring. the one on the car looks to be close to original and has holes in it and starting to get loud…….can any of you guys help….thanks Ed

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Ed,

I bought an exhaust from Waldron (see Parts & Services section), but only the muffler fit and I had to have a local custom car muffler shop bend and fit the down-pipe and adjust the tailpipe (they still brag about it when they see my Series 80 at car shows).

Maybe a local muffler shop can come up with a good fit for the MUFFLER and WELD the mounting bracket in the correct place for mounting the muffler.

That was the essential piece for me, as on a Series 80, the muffler bolts to the chassis.

From there, the other pipes were easy for the custom muffler guy to bend and fit.

Good luck,

Peter

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Assuming you have an original muffler, I had the muffler for my Series 33 rebuilt by a sheet metal frabricating company. The muffler was disassembled and all of the original interior parts were used. Only the outside case was replaced. The holes in the interior pipe were originally 3/16 ” in diameter. I drilled these out to 3/8″” to deduce the back pressure in the exhaust. Give me a call if you would like to discuss this.”

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The muffler on Arthur ( 1933 Model 836 Club Sedan) has a 56″ body with recessed ends and building it yourself is not all that difficult.

For components I have discovered Thomure Manufacturing (MO) for a) the recessed ends b)the 5″ diameter outside body of alumminized steel c) a 4.5″ diameter interior body for additional sound deadening and Cone Engineering(CA) for a) louvered 2 1/4″ flow tubes and SS wool to wrap around the louvered portions of the flow tube that will alternate with solid 21/4″ sections.

Ed, I’m not suggesting that the dimensions on your muffler are the same but the process is certainly similar. I’ll attempt to post some images of Greg Long assembling the components.

Joe Malone

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The components to be used are for a 1933 Exhaust system but the process for other Models will be similar;

– An outer 5″ casing

– an inner 4.5″” casing of our addition ( opyional) for sound deadening

– Recessed end caps for the outer 5″” casing

– conventional 2 1/4″” exhaust pipe alternating with 2/14″” louvered flow tube ( other diameters as well as perforated are available)”

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Well….that worked so let’s go for two:

This image will show the relative positioning of the components. The louvered flow tube has not been wrapped with Stainless Steel wool in this image.

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At this point I may just excuse myself and purchase a Lottery ticket.

There are three 12″ louvered elements in this long 1933 muffler (56″” body length + 2” inlet + 2″”outlet) and they alternate with non-louverd solid lengths of exhaust tubing. The louvered portions are then wrapped with Stainless Steel Wool which is also available from Cone Engineering.”

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Incredibel!

The brackets in the previous image serve to position and hold the 4.5″ casing in place. Remember that this was a idea of Greg Long’s and mine to minimize sound by increasing the mass. Originally the exterior muffler wrap of sheet steel MIGHT have consisted of several layers to do the same thing. You might as an experiment, for example, choose to pack the entire outside outside of the flow tube with Stainless Steel Wool in an effort to minimize sound.

In this next image Arthur proudly displays one of the few, correct 60″OL length,5″ diameter 1933 Pierce-Arrow mufflers in captivity. In an effort to make this as correct as possible, the exhaust piping you see which was crush bent has now been replaced with correct mandrel bent piping.

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Many thanks to Greg Long and his craftsmanship and shared passion of Pierce-Arrow.

The beneficiary of all this attention is Arthur.

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Thanks everyone for the input so far,i was just hoping someone might have a series 33 muffler laying around…i think series 32 & 36 may work…

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Joe this is great material on how to build a muffler-thanks for sharing!

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