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In my experience, 600W thickens and turns almost tar-like over decades. Long-term storage seems to aggravate this process. The worst I found was in an all-original Locomobile Sportif, whose lube did indeed appear to have the consistency of chassis grease, and hardening chassis grease at that.
The 1918 48-B-5 (and earlier) have two differential plugs, one about 1.5 inches (from memory) above the other, on the right side of the diff (there is no rear cover as on later cars). The manual dictates removing both plugs and filling through the top hole until the liquid grease (600W) runs out the lower hole. To me, this indicates the oil was so thick that it would build up in the chamber without exiting if only the lower hole was used, resulting in an overfill condition.
And, Bill Marsh, there is also a separate single fill plug for the pinion, also on the right side. Since there is a single plug, be careful to avoid the buildup of product above the level of the hole, so as not to overfill. I use a one-quart squeeze bottle with a tapered/pointed screw-on tip; as I recall, the bottle originally held Lucas additive.
My apologies for the confusion about documents: I was referring to the Operation & Care (owner’s) manual specific to the cars being discussed.
By the way–and someone correct me if I’m wrong, Pierces thru 1920 used grease cups, not fittings. The 2-pin Alemite fittings are correct for 1921 thru about late 1924/early 1925 when zerk fittings (press-on or ball fittings) were used on Series 80. The manual specifies that about 20 such grease cups be turned down DAILY. Most RHD Pierces I’ve seen have had 2-pin Alemite fittings substituted for grease cups, especially where visible as on spring eyes. the Alemite fittings permit substantially longer greasing intervals, as more product is applied under much greater pressure. And I’ve seen many of these cars with (horrors!) modern zerk fittings on the four universal joints which need service about every 400 miles–at least that’s my frequency.
Our fine member Dave White has been investigating the suitability of modern Extreme Pressure (EP) gear oils for assemblies containing yellow metals. He’s vacationing in Europe, otherwise he’d be all over this discussion. Within the next day or two, I’ll add an illuminating link to a clearly written not-too-technical article that Dave found.
I think most of us will agree that IF there is a modern gear oil product that is superior to the OEM “600-W” steam cylinder oil, we’ll use it. A summary of the burning issue: Most if not all EP oils use sulfur which is corrosive to yellow metals, and one can smell the sulfur in the product. An ASTM copper corrosivity test protocol says a product is safe for yellow metals is the test result is “1a” as I mentioned earlier, but there are complications described in the srticle–which is not accessible to me as I write this.
We’ll all welcome your ideas and especially your rationale.
George, I still do not understand where to find the “documents” referred in your post
“Paul, this maybe a situation in which materials have improved. Grease channels and will be wiped from the teeth. The 1918 48-B-5 manual specifies for the steering gear CASE “one gunful of liquid grease” and cup grease for three grease CUPS for bearings/bushings in the steering column. “Liquid grease” was also called “Special Compound” by Pierce-Arrow, both of which are 600-W steam cylinder oil, but there are better materials on the market today. We can/should use hypoid oil IF AND ONLY IF the results of the copper corrosion test are 1a. Please look at the document(s) –like I just did– and see if you agree.”
Are you referring to the “Copper corrosion test are 1a”? I have seen the test strips on the Restoration Supply site.
Aw shucks George. OK, I can’t help myself, I have to jump in. I don’t have a real computer and all of the information I have located on the subject of gear oils, so the details and links will have to wait until I get back to the U.S. The bottom line according to a couple of the big oil companies (I talked to some of their engineers) is that what we should use in our old gear boxes is “Compounded Gear Oil”. It specifically designed for worm drives and gear units that have brass or bronze parts. It is available in up to ISO 1500 weight (really thick, I have been using ISO 1000 for my differential and 680 for my transmission). At least Mobil and Phillips carry it. The downside is that it is only available in 5gal. or sometimes only 55 gallon drums.
There are a number of gear oil rating systems (at least four that I have come across) for gear oils. The most common are SAE and ISO. They are NOT the same. A modern 140(SAE) weight hypoid gear oil is approximately the same viscosity as a 600 weight compounded gear oil. Lastly, gear oils that are “EP” oils usually have additives that are corrosive to yellow metals (sulfer compounds). That’s what gives modern EP gear oils the strong smell.
What stared this for me was that I bought some Meropa 1500 for the differential on my Series 36. It is advertised by some old car vendors as safe for yellow metals. When I opened the bottle I immediately noticed the sulfer smell. I contacted Chevron, who makes Meropa, and was told by two different engineers that it was not safe with yellow metals and not appropriate for our needs. So, I am still hunting for more information on the subject, but at this point Compounded Gear Oil has been recommmended by the oil companies for our needs. Do a web search for compounded gear oil and you can get the product data sheet.
George if you have the link to the corrosion test info, perhaps you could post it, and if you have the viscosity comparison chart, that also. If not I will post it when I get home along with more detailed information. -Dave
Gentleman please go to YouTube and type in
John Deere Corn Head Grease
Watch the video marked 1:50 time stamp.
It’s a liquid and a solid……..very neat product.
I don’t know how to make a link. Ed
Well, just woke up Anne with a Youtube video, watched it three times, about “Corn Head Grease”” she said she is feeling polyuric!
Looks great and easy to administer. Is it ok for yellow metals?
Trying again with the link as Peter suggested
It also seems there are slightly different part numbers ranging between $3.81 and $49/tube. What should we use and where?
Corn head grease might work very well for more grease fittings around the car?
I have been very serious using lubrication when a too dry Starter/Generator failed in a 1920 Cadillac when the Bendix did not release from the flywheel, allowing the armature to overspin and wiped out the windings. This facilitated about a six-month rebuild to get the armature rewound. Now I use lotsa oil and grease!
But I want to be sure that I am lubricating with the proper lubricants for our 100-year-cars, so I am very carefully watching posts.
Bill, I believe it is, it wouldn’t be what I run in a steering box, but the early Pierce rear ends would be fine with it.
RS is out of Penrite LUB009 1200w.
Maybe I should get some “corn head grease.”” Any ideas if CHG is ok for yellow metals?”
Bill Marsh, your 1916 Pierce (and those through 1920) was originally equipped with grease cups on most lube points, which required VERY frequent attention, “turning down” each grease cup daily for the most part. However, on your car those cups have been modified with zerk fittings, so you can use a conventional grease gun and limit attention to every 800-1,000 miles for those because the grease gun dispenses much more product at much higher pressure. Don’t overdo on the rear wheel bearings! One stroke on the grease gun will suffice.
There are vendors today who sell grease cups modified with zerks for some rather dear amounts. Use what ya got….