Rear Universal joint

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I can’t get the search feature to work in the service bulletins. Does anybody know if there is one on how to get the rear u-joint yoke off the drive shaft? I want to get the covers off to replace the seals and get the dirt and rust out, the joint itself is OK.

There is a cross pin under the locking spring and I took that out and the yoke won’t budge at all. I haven’t tried heat yet but that’s next I guess.

Jim

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Jim,

I did a search ( U Joints) through the PA Service Bulletins and there was no mention of any difficulties relating to the U joints removal.

Joe Malone

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Joe,

The joint will come apart, but that still leaves the ball shell around it unable to come off with the yoke still on the driveshaft. The yoke looks like it is splined to the driveshaft like the front slip yoke is, but there is a cross pin to keep it from moving. I have taken out the cross pin but the yoke won’t move at all. I want to replace the seals in the ball unit to keep the oil in and dirt out. The outer seal that rubs against the outside of the ball or shell can be replaced in place but the inner seal I don’t see a good way to get a new seal in there and mine is gone. Jim

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Jim: did you ever get the universal joint apart and the seals replaced??

Greg

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Greg,

I never got the yoke off, I got the housing and inner seal plate cleaned and made a cork ring for the inner seal and super glued it in place then made a leather strip for the outer seal. I don’t know if it’s correct since the inner seal was missing but it’s not leaking yet. But I haven’t driven it either.

Maybe it will be like a Harley Davidson and mark it’s territory at every stop.

I need to get a picture of what I need for the trunk rack to you and see if you have any pieces. Jim

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Ha! I forgot about the trunk rack parts.

yes, most old cars do ‘mark their spot’.

The old joke, with painfully real implications;

‘hey mister: your car is leaking oil’.. the reply: ‘GOOD’, it hasn’t run out of oil yet’.

The old compressed felt seals just about can’t help but leak some. And leather is only a bit better.

The modern rubber or silicone lip-seal or garlock seal does a much better job.

Greg Long

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A lip-seal might be able to be adapted to the outer seal but the inner is a curved disc that rubs against the inner side of the spherical outer shell, so it needs to be almost a flat surface attached to the inner disc. If that makes sense. Jim

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Hi Jim I know well the seal you are referring to. And have many hours of removing the grease that is slung onto the undersides of the floorboards, the frame and linkages from that barely adequate seal.

The differential pinion seals, the rear and front wheel bearing seals and engine crank seals [if any] are usually felt, and do leak. It’s pretty hard to completely dry up a big car from before WWII, but it can be done.. eventually.

Greg Long

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Greg, I might look into a removable shield on the underside of the body to catch the oil that flys off. It’s been so long since I did the front wheel bearings, crankcase and pinion seal but I think I found modern lipped seals for all. Jim

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