Series 80 Wiring

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One of my winter projects this year will be rewiring the 1927 Series 80 with more or less correct wiring. The PO rewired it with modern industrial wire which is functional but lacking in appearance.

Can anyone guide me to a source of knowledge for the required materials and wire gauges, etc.?

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Hi Randy, I believe your wiring diagram in your owners manual has color codes and wire gauge sizes. If not, you are in luck: the Series 80/81 has such a simple wiring setup that it is pretty easy to rewire.

I’ll look at an owners manual to see if colors and wire gauge is noted. if not I will look them up for you.

Greg Long

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If you’re going to do the wiring yourself, I’d recommend Brillman for wire and connectors, a great resource. No, I don’t own stock in company, but owner is a good guy!

http://https://brillman.com/

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Ok, Greg and David, I have the book so I will check it out this evening.

Thanks!

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The Manual does have a very nice wiring diagram, but no color codes nor wire gauges for the older cars. The eights and twelves do have this information.

As you said, the wiring is pretty simple, but I want to get everything more or less right without rework.

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Color code is not critical. Wire gauge is more important.

I’ll look to see if there is color and gauge information somewhere.

Greg

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I agree. Seems there are only two fuse sizes so, because the fuse is sized to protect the wire, perhaps there are only two wire gauges?

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There are two companies listed in the Parts and Services Directory that can provide a complete wiring harness.

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Thank, Paul, but my Car is a 1927.

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Randy,

Rhode Island wiring will likely make up for you everything you need, including variations on a 1927 Series 80, if there are variations.

Also, as pointed out above, the wiring on a Series 80 is pretty simple, so a DIY is okay.

Apropos of wire gauge, you can chat with the RI WIRE guys about your needs and they will give sound advice.

You re running a 6V system, so you will hard pressed to start an electrical fire with modern wire running through most of the car.

I bought 14 gauge & 16 gauge wire for most of the runs, with a slightly larger gauge for the run from the fusebox to the coil / distributor, (12 gauge?).

And of course, battery cable.0

Again, RI WIRE will easily get you through it.

Also, don’t forget the steel armored wire that runs from the horn button through the steering column and to the horn.

Peter

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Y n Z has done Series 80 in the past.

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Randy, I’m very interested in how you make out. My 27 appears to have original wiring and I have been contemplating redoing as well. Wondering if either company would consider making a complete harness?

James

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Hi, James. The wiring is so simple there almost isn’t a harness. As my Car does not have the original wiring though, I am not certain of the exact configuration. That is what I am learning more about.

I will be glad to share whatever I can learn. The only difficulty I can see so far: the wiring for the interior lamp and associated switch is underneath the upholstery and it is attached such that I would have to put it at risk to access the wire. I may leave this alone for now, but that pains me as the lamp doesn’t work now. Almost all the remaining wire seems like it could be replaced one wire at a time without too much difficulty. It’s not a bunch of molded plastic plugs and such which are not available, but standard wire and terminals which are available.

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Randy and James: The headlights, park light bulb, and the three tail lights all use a spring-loaded socket to hold the bulb. There is no ‘wire connector’ to connect the car’s wiring to the bulb-socket..

Rather, the socket has a bakelite or similar ‘plastic’ end, that has an imbedded brass connector, a round barrel that you insert the wire into, with about 1/4″ of bare wire, then on the side of the connector, there is a slotted-head set screw. I think these set screws are a number 8 or 6 screw size.. so: very small. The set screw is usually steel, and like I stated the connector is brass.

I’ll make a suggestion: get access to the back of the headlamp reflectors, and spray your favorite rusty bolt penetrant on the socket and wire connector, then remove the rear tailight reflectors and do the same. Hopefully your tiny set screws will cooperate and come free, if not the search for bulb socket will be needed.

Randy; I still have not found a color and gauge size guide, but you would be safe to use # 10 or #12 for primary battery wire from the starter ‘solenoid’, generator, and ammeter to fuse box. For headlamps, I’d use #14, for park lights and tailight, #16, for reverse light and brake lights #16.

For the headlights: at their best 6v headlamps are not very bright. So what ever you can do to improve them is a good idea. The headlight reflector has a sliding ‘focusable’ center light socket, this sliding socket is not the best electrical connection. The reflector is then screwed to the pot metal ring on the steel fender, Then the steel fender is bolted to the frame, through fender welting. The fender brace is bolted to the steel fender and to the car’s frame.

I highly recommend running a dedicate ground wire from the frame up to the back of the headlight reflector, and connect the ground to the actual ‘sliding’ bulb socket. You can solder a wire to the socket and connect it to the dedicated ground wire. The other end of the ground wire can be connected under it’s own screw or bolt/nut to the frame, but use a star washer for the best connection, then brush some paint on the connection to prevent corrosion.

The headlights are noticeably brighter when this procedure is used.

Also, for the triple tailight assembly, make sure you either use a dedicated ground wire, or use star washers to ensure the tailight housing assembly and the tailight bracket are making good electrical connections. The tailight assembly tends to get loose from the vibrations when the car is on the road, and the taillights and most importantly the stop light will either be dim or not illuminate at all.

Greg Long

Oh, if you look in the taillights and behind the headlight reflectors, where there has been minimal sunlight, you might find the original colors on the wires.. ‘original’ is not imperative, just don’t use all one color !!

Greg

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Randy, Back to the original question, for $15 you can order the complete wiring and tune up guide from the PAS. Click on “products”” under the Members section. It is the second item on the page. I saw they were in stock at the Meet in St. Louis. Karl”

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Hi Karl, I found my Wiring and tune-up guide and was gong to scan and post the appropriate page, but, unfortunately, the wiring diagram does not state wire size or color.. a shame. So I’m still looking, i’m pretty sure somewhere there is a gauge and color guide for the Series 80 wiring.

Greg

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Hi, Karl, I have all the Books. Greg is on it, so no worries!

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