Stewart Warner Power Brake Disassembly

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Since I was taking mine apart, I thought I would take photos of the process. There will be a few photos.

To begin with,

1. disconnect the drive shaft ujoint

2. Remove the nut on the end of the output shaft. There is not much room for a socket, so I used a punch and tapped the nut loose. 3.Remove the washer under the nut.

4.Remove the yoke with a gear puller

5.Remove the 7 cover plate bolts

6.Remove cover

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By the way, tap the nut in the other direction to loosen and take out the cotter pin first.

You should now be looking at the brake clutch assembly.

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Next there is a thrust like piece that need to be removed. The flange is towards the rear of the car. Also note the three springs around the friction disc.

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Here is the spring

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Here is the friction disc. The shorter boss (where my thumb is) is towards the rear of the car.

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Here is disc. Mine is woven and has a seam in it.

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Here is the second friction disc. The other one is in the rear cover plate which can be seen in picture #3 on the ground about 2 o’clock

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You may have to resurface this plate if grooved or pitted.

Finally, here is the mechanism once the plate is removed.

This should be as far as you need to go to replace the friction disc once relined.

Assembly is the reverse of these steps, but there is a gasket between the rear cover and the main body.

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Thank you for the pictures. Have not been able to follow up on my own unit as of yet, due to health issues. The clutch service in upstate N.Y. has turned out to be a bust, extremely difficult to deal with, has a take it or leave it stance with no fixed price or assurance that disk will work afterwards. Have found a supplier in Conn who has been very informative and pleasant. He has a cross reference of Raybestose 2010 woven to a modern composite material that should work properly. Will be sending disk out to him shortly

Bill

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The lining is not very thick above the heads of the rivets, and since the disc runs in transmission gear oil, it does not wear real fast. If your friction material is worn to the rivets, it must be replaced, but if there is .020-.030″ of material above the rivets, that is still a very servicable disk..

I wore my original disc down to the brass rivets during the 2001 meet in Buffalo. The indication is that the brakes will act normally when first applied, but after only a few seconds, the power assist decreases significantly, This is I think, due to the gear oil being pressed out of the disc as more squeezing pressure is applied by our foot on the pedal.

I replaced the wornt to the rivets disc with a ‘spare’ disc that had no more that .020″ of friction material above the brass rivets. That disc lasted until last fall, so 12 years and probably 8,000 miles.

I’ll use the clutch company in the service provider list, South Bend Clutch or is it Fort Wayne Clutch? Can’t remember right now. I’ve used them for clutch discs in the past.

Greg L

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It’s Fort Wayne Clutch.

I have one of their discs in my ’34. I believe that their lining material is kevlar.

Bill

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Hi Bill, I think South Bend clutch is where I got my Dozer’s clutch rebuilt.. I keep getting the two shops confused.

Did you notice any difference in braking action with the new Kevlar vs the original material??

Greg Long

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There have been several problems with wrong material. I think Dave Stephens had his relined three years ago, I would email him.

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