The “NEW” (to me) 1930 Pierce Arrow

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Just picked up this 1930 Pierce Model B Touring about a week ago. I am new to PA’s (and a car as old as this) but I have been contacted by several PAS members (which I have already joined) who are ready,willing and able to offer me any assistance/advice that I may need. I wish to thank you all in advance (Ed M.)

A lot of you on this Forum already know about this car.

When it hit the internet about a week or so ago it certainly stirred up a lot of interest.

I look forward to owning this car and interacting with members of PAS and maybe someday being able to meet some of you.

Joe

 

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A beautiful car, congrats!!

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Congrats on the great car!

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Thanks for the compliments.

Joe

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Welcome @Joseph. Was watching your car on eBay. Thought about pulling the trigger, but fortunately, you saved me.

It’s a slippery slope – strap yourself in.

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Welcome to the Pierce Arrow Society!  Make sure to tell your friends that you aren’t in a Club, but rather a Society!  You’ll meet some great people here.  So glad it went to someone who appreciates it, and will get it back on the road.  Don’t hesitate to ask the group, or individuals, questions….

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Joe: congratulations.. you beat me to the Buy it Now keys on my computer by about an hour..  That saves me from having to figure out new additional storage at my place..

I have a usable poor copy of an original 1930 illustrated parts manual. If you did not get one with the car, it’s invaluable for working on and learning about your car.  I can make a photo copy of this photo copy if you wish.. I might take it to my local printer, they have a software progra that cleans up the new copy and makes it easier to read..

You also might be interested in a Salesman’s data book for the 1030 cars, Those I have already had reproduced in the original size and color.

Greg Long

 

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Joe:  is your ‘new’ ’30 touring a running car?  If not, I’ll be happy to assist you bringing your car back to life.. If it IS running, and if you do not know any of the car’s previous maintenance history, then I HIGHLY encourage you to drop the oil pan and clean it out.  The engine oil used in the ’30’s was a ‘non-detergent’ oil. That means that the oil was not inteneded to keep dirt and contaminants in suspension so that an oil filter could filter them out.. A non-detergent oil allowed the dirt to precipitate out and settle in the bottom of the oil pan.  Often this sludge is over an 1″ deep !!  And it can clog the inlet screen to the oil pump..

The oil pumps on a ’30 originally had a pot-metal pump housing sandwiched between the cast iron upper drive and the cast iron lower screen and pickup sections.. The pot metal expands with age and causes loss of oil pressure and can also expand then crack open causing instant loss of pressure and lubrication to the engine.  Many of these oil pumps have been replaced with a later all-iron pump.  Or a brass or aluminum pump body has been installed to replace the pot metal one..  You usually can see the oil pump body through the oil pan drain plug hole, if you use a light source that fits in through the pan hole..  If it appears to be a pot metal body sandwiched between the upper and lower parts.. I’d recommend NOT driving it until you have dropped the pan to inspect the pump.

Thankfully, dropping the oil pan on a ’29 and later Pierce engine is not a big job.. nothing much is in the way.  On a lift, I can have a pan off in 15 minutes usually, unless I’m trying to save the old gasket and it’s really stuck..  Olsen’s gaskets [a PAS member] sells replacement gaskets..

Feel free to email me regarding your car,  my address and cell # are in the roster..

Greg Long

 

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If all goes according to plan I will be bringing the Pierce home tomorrow morning

Had to wait until I freed up a spot for it

That’s why I was unable to give any updates

 

“LET THE “FUN” BEGIN” !!!!!!!

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The Pierce coming home today

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Spent an hour – too hot – doing a little spiffing up

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Cleaning up the chrome a bit

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It’s been a long time since any updates on my Pierce.

I have since kept cleaning it and started on the mechanical aspect(s).

I removed the valve covers and dropped the oil pan.

Lubricated everything really well

I had been cranking the engine without the plugs in it to build up some oil pressure – which it did

Tonight I installed the spark plugs and sprayed some carb cleaner into the carb and got it to “sputter” (fire a little)

One step closer to getting it running

 

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I have a usable poor copy of an original 1930 illustrated parts manual. If you did not get one with the car, it’s invaluable for working on and learning about your car.  I can make a photo copy of this photo copy if you wish.. I might take it to my local printer, they have a software progra that cleans up the new copy and makes it easier to read..

You also might be interested in a Salesman’s data book for the 1030 cars, Those I have already had reproduced in the original size and color.

Greg Long

 

Greg,

I will take you up on the literature you have for my car.

Let me know the terms

 

Thanks,

Joe

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Hey Joe,

Looking like good progress, there.

When I dropped the oil pan on my ‘32 there was a fair bit of glop under the baffles; perhaps on your as well? As the baffles are spot welded in, we cut the spot welds, cleaned the pan thoroughly, filled and smoothed the holes from the spot welds and tack-welded the baffles back in. In this way, the next owner can remove the baffles without a lot of drama. Oh, and you may not have noticed, but there are four oil pan bolts slightly longer than the others  those are for the four front holes. On the pan gasket, I coated both sides with Permatex #2, along with the bolt threads and doesn’t leak a drop.  Can’t say that much for other places, but the oil pan is leak-free. The pan gasket from Olson’s has a few of the bolt holes slightly off center. Not a big deal to address while installing

Email me with your email address and I will send you a link to download the parts manuals in PDF format.

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