Upgrading brakes?

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

William, I was about to post that Chrysler had hydraulic brakes in 1924 when they transitioned from Maxwell.

They also had inner and outer brakes on the rear drums, I believe.

It has been awhile since I have seen the 1924 Chrysler roadster a cousin is restoring but from what I remember that is the brake setup.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Pierces from 1932(?) forward had 342 sq in of swept brake surface My’31 Model 43 has huge brake drums, something like four feet of brake shoe surface per wheel…no problem braking, but as mentioned, they have to be set up correctly.

One can’t drive an old car like a new car. Daily, I see people accelerating until the last second, then slamming on the brakes when they see a stop light or sign. Even in a modern car, I start slowing down well in advance of an anticipated stop, yet people tailgate and get PO’d that you’re slowing down.

If you drive your car frequently, go ahead and install hydraulics. If you drive occasionally, get the mechanicals up to par, otherwise you’ll spend your time fixing the hydraulics a LOT.

Most cars of the time, particularly Pierce, had adequate brakes if driven correctly. If they don’t work to your satisfaction, try to fix the basix problem first.

OK, off my soapbox now!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

With mechanicals, I understand that the proper lining material is essential to effective braking. What materiali is suggested for a 1930 two shoe duo servo system that might be available these days?

Tom Barrett

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

A rear wheel only braking system with a hydraulic brake conversion is much like the pre 1967 cars/trucks with single master cylinders. A single leak or failure and the entire system is inoperable. At least with mechanical brakes it out be likely that if one pin fell out, then one side might still work.

I’ve had a total brake failure on a single master cylinder system. Disaster was averted by inches. literally inches I thought for sure I would hit the car that had pulled in front of me. The panic stop caused a tired old brake line to rupture. A hydraulic brake system will most likely fail under a hard stop, creating high pressure, rupturing a line.

Bill Marsh: have someone step on your brake pedal while you watch your rear brakes. See if your foot pedal operates the inside expanding shoes. or the outside contracting bands. Some cars the linkage has been swapped. His friction woven lining is important, and the proper angle of the actuation arms also makes a huge difference. A little great or oil on the brake friction material also is a big issue.

As stated many times already, properly set up mechanical brakes work fine. Believing that spending a ton of money on a hydraulic brake conversion will change how fast or how short your Pierce will stop is kidding yourself.

Fix what you have. Pierce had th best brakes in the industry. Just bring them back to proper condition.

Greg Long

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

The 1911 Hudson that got its life saved by juice brakes had mechanical

brakes for emergency brakes (outer brakes). My 1910 Rambler has juice for

inner brakes and mechanical for the outer. The only trouble is the Rambler

brake lever is activated like a stagecoach by pushing forward. There’s a

slight learning curve involved.

I have no desire to change later P-A mechanical brake systems. The later

ones had more swept area than any other car of their era, more than a

Duesenberg that out weighed them (straight eights 1,000 -1,500 lbs. I’d guess

and V12’s 500 lbs?).

Brass guys swear by Green Grabber which is an industrial use material. They

like it because most modern linings are too hard for good gripping on

mechanical brakes. Green Grabber is soft yet durable.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

My advice is to use the softest lining you can find.

With the earlier cars I agree with George that tire contact area is the most limiting factor.

Drive with a long view and be defensive!

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Want to try Green Gripper. What material, length, width, thickness should I get for my 1916 Pierce? Pedal brakes and service/hand brakes.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

1914-1920 brake linings specs attached (I hope). I forget where I got this….

[Author]

Posts