use of freewheeling

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Hi all, I cant seem to find the thread on freewheeling i once read somewhere here.

The reason I was looking was to find out what the recommended way to engage or disengage freewheeling is.

Also, with the freewheeling engaged, can you use reverse, or should you disengage to use reverse?

My car is 1934 836A

Thanks

Blaine

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Many states outlawed free-wheeling including Oregon where I live. The reason was the lack of engine compression braking which becomes a significant problem on a downgrade and in the mountains.

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I’ve recently acquired a ’33 Brougham and it has freewheeling I’m told. What’s the difference vs coasting in neutral or with the clutch depressed?

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Hi Blaine,

When moving, the proper way to engage FW (push handle in) is to let the car coast, depress the clutch and let the engine drop back to idle, push the handle in, and let the clutch back out. This can be done at most any speed.

To disengage FW, bring engine rpm up to approx level for speed you are going, push the clutch in, pull the handle out, and slowly engage the clutch for a smooth transition. The closer the engine speed is to proper rpm for car speed, the less of a “clunk” you will hear when pulling the handle out. This is done best at slow speeds. If you don’t want to mess with matching engine speed, just push the handle in before you start out.

You can start out from a standstill with FW either in or out, and use reverse with FW either in or out.

I love FW around town – you only need the clutch for 1st gear, can shift to 2nd and 3rd without the clutch.

When I drive to a hilly area, I just pull the handle to take it out of FW and have engine braking.

(The “normal” position of the handle is “in” toward the dashboard, so it was the designer’s intention to be in FW most of the time.)

Brian – no difference between coasting in neutral or clutch depressed.

I love my FW- just be sure pulling the handle takes it out of FW before going downhill or you’ll cook your brakes.

Cheers,

Bob

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Thanks Bob, Mine has always been in toward the dashboard. I’ll try it with it pulled out when the weather improves.

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Bob,

thank you so much for the advice. I just started using freewheeling the last week, but absolutely love the feature around town. Its good my 1934 has the excellent brakes because you can coast up to a stop sign quite quickly.

It is amazing how almost the modern the car is to drive like this. It zips right along, and gets away from a stop with traffic.

Actually, often times i see people changing lanes behind me when leaving a stoplight, expecting me to be slow to get up to speed. By the time they are over a lane, I am in second, then third, and they are often still a length behind me. that is not to say I am winning a drag race in any respects, but the acceleration is brisk enough to quickly blend with traffic.

Same way in coming to stops. I dont prepare any more distance wise to to stop the Pierce than I do my daily drivers.

Mentioning daily drivers – I wonder who is logging regular miles? and how much per month, per year? I was suprised when i started to log miles that i usually log over 50 miles a week, since i use it nearly everyday going to breakfast or work, and then as my daily driver until i have to leave town for work or something.

Thanks again Bob!!

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I recently purchased a 1933 1236 with freewheeling, and found by going on the library tab here, I was able to find the owners manual for my car which gave full instructions on how to operate the freewheeling feature. Personally, I have driven two cars with freewheeling, my 1933 1236, and Dave Stevens’ 1247. While I like the feature of clutchless shifting while utilizing the freewheeling, I also like using engine braking when slowing these cars down or stopping them. When I drive my 1236 around Chicago, traffic being what it is, I always cut out the freewheeling, as while my car has the excellent power brakes, there is a lot of car there to stop.

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I drove a 1919 Pierce down an eight mile twisty road from Blue Lake to Rodney

Flournoy’s Ranch. If memory serves me, the lower gears were permanently in

freewheeling. That was one of the scariest rides of my life. I do enjoy using

it around town in my ’34 836A, but it can kill you in the mountains. The

handle should have a warning on it for the new owner or the owner who

occasionally drives his vehicle and has memory cells like mine.

In the day, not many makes offered freewheeling. Those that did touted easier

shifting and longer engine life. Having freewheeling engaged at the wrong time

could be a life changing event. Pierce brakes are the best in their day but

they will fade under extreme use.

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Freewheeling is the normal mode for our 1247, but there are important caveats:

1)Make sure your power brakes are up to snuff. If so they will stop you easily in almost any situation, except #2 below. The advantage of the Stewart-Warner power unit is that it is almost like disc brakes in managing fade.

2)Don’t use in mountainous areas

3)Learn how to engage and disengage quickly on the go until it becomes instinctive. With PRACTICE it’s easy

4)Lock out if driving on metropolitan multilane highways in traffic

Dave

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I agree with Dave!

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Thank you all so much for the advice and experiences you have offered – much appreciated!!!

Blaine

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