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I will need your e-mail address which I can get off the website.  I upload the file along with your e-mail address to a service.  Once the file is uploaded, the service sends you an e-mail with a login to retrieve the file. It is around 400MB I think, so it takes a while to download unless you have very fast internet. This will be the same scan that is at the AACA Library.

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Joe,

If you can’t get the parts manual otherwise, I can get a digital copy to you. It is too large a file to e-mail and would have to be done using a file transfer site.

Dave

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Ben,

The PAS record shows the original owner as Tucker, but that information could have come from anyone and is not documented. The Weis files have: (formerly owned by Preston Tucker??) , so again no positive documentation. It is possible you could go to the appropriate state DMV to see if original registration is available, however it is increasingly difficult to get this information with all the privacy laws. There are also some older DMV records available online.

That car is still on your grandfather’s record. Are you the current owner? If so I will move it to you.

Dave

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Below is a description of the evolution of the Pierce-Arrow 8 cylinder engine from one of our Service Bulletins.

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Hi Brandon,

Below is some information on the Pierce-Arrow 12 and a comparison of the 1936 Pierce-Arrow with some other luxury makes. I am not a Pierce 8 owner, so hopefully some other members will provide answers to your questions.  The ’36-’38 Pierce-Arrows are generally regarded as the best driving P-As, although earlier ones are still very nice cars and fun to drive.  In any given year, Pierce-Arrow was at the top of the field.

The 8 cylinder engines started at 125 horsepower in 1929 and ended at 150 horsepower in 1938. There was a 115 hp model in 1930. There were 3 displacements, 340 cu. in., 366 cu in. and 385 cu.in. The chart below lists the various 12 cylinder versions. The 12s do have more power, but the 8s are capable cars.

I hope this helps you make a decision. While I may be biased, I highly recommend Pierce-Arrow.

 

 

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Thanks Randy.  I have added a link to the Metro Rubber pads to the Parts and Services Directory under Rubber Parts.

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The plan is to have the meet in the Carson Valley of Nevada.  A committee has been formed and finding a suitable hotel available in the appropriate timeline is the first order of business. The hope is to have the meet this time next year.  As soon as things are firmed up, the information will be posted.

 

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Unless I am not seeing something, a throttle rod end. A variation of below:

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William,

If you check the thread below yours, 1931 Pierce-Arrow information, there is a post on weights for the 1931 cars. They should be roughly similar to 1932 for the 8 cylinder cars.  I am at the PAS meet right now, when I get home next week, I will check and see if I have a 1932 Dealer Data Book with ’32 weights.

Dave

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Jim,

One other thing you might consider to prevent cooling system corrosion is running with a zinc or magnesium anode in the cooling system. Many people hang them in the radiator neck. There are some made that will thread into the block or radiator drain hole. Magnesium works best in fresh water, but Zinc will also work.

https://www.rotometals.com/flex-a-lite-radiator-anode-incl-brass-plug-w-zinc-anode-32060-1-4-npt-x-1-3-4/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=234348023&gclid=CjwKCAjw3f_BBhAPEiwAaA3K5KoGoMI39_OF6IrW4P8drNOyID3YUIHUl1-tC224X6DiBE2BeQbnShoCVcwQAvD_BwE

Dave

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Jim,

I contacted PerRay that used to make Pencool and they no longer make it. Right now I am using No-Rosion. NAPA also has a Water Pump Lubricant / Anti Rust available. I haven’t heard good or bad about either. NoRosion specifically gives a dosage for straight water. https://www.norosion.com/norosioncoolant.htm

LubeGard has a diesel truck anti-corrosive additive, but does not mention use with water only. More research is required.

Dave

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Herb,

They found a cracked fitting on the suction side of the fuel pump that was allowing air to be pulled into the fuel system. It showed up when they blew out the fuel lines.

Dave

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Mike,

Below is what PAS records have on the cars. We do not have the current owner for either car. Any recent owner information you could provide us would be appreciated. You can e-mail me at [email protected]

Our records show 6 Model 41 & ps. Tourings exist with one in Norway and one in Thailand.  Eight of the Model 43 exist. We have no information on the number built.

 

Dave

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Arnold.

The Wiring and Tune up Guide has a wiring diagram including the Light Switch.  If you want, you can download the guide from the PAS Website; Member Pages / Publications and Tech/ Operations and Service manuals.   See below:

I hope this helps. I want a ride in the car at Eureka Springs.

 

1 -Stop Light Switch, Brown/White

and Current Limit Relay, Blue

4- Tail light,  Green

5 – Headlight, Yellow

6 – Headlight , Red

8 – Parking Lights,  Tan / Red

H – (Double)- Horn and Ground, Black

 

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Al,

Below is a drawing out of the 1930 Parts Manual. 1931 does not have any drawings. I looked for some ’31 photos but don’t seem to have any. Hopefully a ’31 owner will contact you. If not, you can do a search for 1931 42 in the vehicle roster and this will give you some owners you could contact.

What information are you looking for on the oil filter?

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Alan,

Asking about oil usually opens a very large can of worms.  Below is a period lube chart for 1931.  I think most of it is self explanatory, although some of the oil numbers have changed.

There are a lot of opinions on oil.  What I use is 15-40 Chevron Delo. Shell Rotella is similar. These are diesel oils, but are also rated for gas engines. They are high detergent. Any modern motor oil such as a 10-30 is OK.  If you want non detergent, a straight 30 is good for most summertime driving.

There are two main areas of disagreement on motor oils, detergent vs. non-detergent and the use of ZDDP.  You will have to make your own choice on the detergent vs. non detergent controversy or how much ZDDP is needed.   Keep in mind that ZDDP didn’t exist when our cars were new and that too much (2000ppm+) may possibly be harmful to the engine. My opinion is that modern oils contain enough ZDDP (6-800 ppm) for our older engines.

For the transmission, a GL 4 gear oil, either 90 or 140 wt. The weight of the oil will determine how it shifts and the timing on the double clutch. I’d try the SAE 140 first and if it doesn’t shift well when double clutching, try 90.

For the diff. use a 140 wt gear oil rated for hypoid gears (GL-4). GL-5 is more easily found, but it may be harmful if there is any yellow metal in the differential or transmission.

One other comment; don’t use chassis grease in the steering box. It should use a heavy oil or flowable grease, grade 000 or 00. If there is a grease fitting on the steering box don’t use a pressure grease gun or you may blow the seals.

Hopefully some others will join in with their thoughts.

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Glenn,

I would think most fittings are available at your local hardware store.  If not, try Mcmaster Carr:  https://www.mcmaster.com

Is there something in particular you can’t find?

Dave

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There is one rebuilder listed in the parts and Services Directory, AG Rebuilders. If you do a web search for “Automotive Water Pump Rebuilders” you will get a number of hits including one for the AACA Forum with info on rebuilders. I can’t speak to the “Best” place.

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I would think any upholstery or drapery shop would be able to make that. I was lucky and didn’t have to look far.

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Dennis,

I have two types. The first at 9″ are the ones made as a PAS project. They are made of sections of Naugahyde. The center section has some padding for backing. Less than 1/8″ thick.  There is beading between the sides and center and an elastic band sewn in the edge. If you look at the backside photo you can see the layers sewn together.

 

The second ones are for my Pierce-Arrow with 12″ bracket headlights. My wife made this set. They are two layers of Naugahyde with a plastic layer between them.  I was concerned that the padding would not be adequate against a rock with sharp edges, so I took one of those thin flexible plastic cutting boards, cut a circle out of it and sewed it between the two layers. Because it is a bracket headlight we just sewed elastic loops that go around the back of the headlight bucket. Easier to take off and put on.

[Author]

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