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Alan,

Asking about oil usually opens a very large can of worms.  Below is a period lube chart for 1931.  I think most of it is self explanatory, although some of the oil numbers have changed.

There are a lot of opinions on oil.  What I use is 15-40 Chevron Delo. Shell Rotella is similar. These are diesel oils, but are also rated for gas engines. They are high detergent. Any modern motor oil such as a 10-30 is OK.  If you want non detergent, a straight 30 is good for most summertime driving.

There are two main areas of disagreement on motor oils, detergent vs. non-detergent and the use of ZDDP.  You will have to make your own choice on the detergent vs. non detergent controversy or how much ZDDP is needed.   Keep in mind that ZDDP didn’t exist when our cars were new and that too much (2000ppm+) may possibly be harmful to the engine. My opinion is that modern oils contain enough ZDDP (6-800 ppm) for our older engines.

For the transmission, a GL 4 gear oil, either 90 or 140 wt. The weight of the oil will determine how it shifts and the timing on the double clutch. I’d try the SAE 140 first and if it doesn’t shift well when double clutching, try 90.

For the diff. use a 140 wt gear oil rated for hypoid gears (GL-4). GL-5 is more easily found, but it may be harmful if there is any yellow metal in the differential or transmission.

One other comment; don’t use chassis grease in the steering box. It should use a heavy oil or flowable grease, grade 000 or 00. If there is a grease fitting on the steering box don’t use a pressure grease gun or you may blow the seals.

Hopefully some others will join in with their thoughts.

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Glenn,

I would think most fittings are available at your local hardware store.  If not, try Mcmaster Carr:  https://www.mcmaster.com

Is there something in particular you can’t find?

Dave

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There is one rebuilder listed in the parts and Services Directory, AG Rebuilders. If you do a web search for “Automotive Water Pump Rebuilders” you will get a number of hits including one for the AACA Forum with info on rebuilders. I can’t speak to the “Best” place.

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I would think any upholstery or drapery shop would be able to make that. I was lucky and didn’t have to look far.

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Dennis,

I have two types. The first at 9″ are the ones made as a PAS project. They are made of sections of Naugahyde. The center section has some padding for backing. Less than 1/8″ thick.  There is beading between the sides and center and an elastic band sewn in the edge. If you look at the backside photo you can see the layers sewn together.

 

The second ones are for my Pierce-Arrow with 12″ bracket headlights. My wife made this set. They are two layers of Naugahyde with a plastic layer between them.  I was concerned that the padding would not be adequate against a rock with sharp edges, so I took one of those thin flexible plastic cutting boards, cut a circle out of it and sewed it between the two layers. Because it is a bracket headlight we just sewed elastic loops that go around the back of the headlight bucket. Easier to take off and put on.

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Dennis,

If you’re referring to the silver covers with the elastic band, I believe those were either a region project or a meet project. I managed to find a pair for sale at an Annual Meet swap meet a few years ago.  They are probably pretty tough to find. You’ll probably have to have a set made. I can take photos of one if that would help you in getting one made.

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Dennis,

At the February Board meeting the Buffalo meet was discussed.  There has been difficulty getting someone in that area to be the “boots on the ground” for the meet.  I have not heard anything more recently.

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Carl,

The only reason I am aware of to use Avgas in our old cars is that it will go several years without deterioration unlike modern Mogas. It is good for long term storage.

There are several competing companies working on an unleaded avgas. Of course politics has gotten involved which has slowed progress down. The FAA has approved an STC for one unleaded avgas in all piston aviation engines.  It’s only a matter of time when all avgas will be unleaded. I believe that the EPA has set a date of 2030 for the elimination of low lead. There also is a lawsuit here in California that may push this up.

Dave

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Randy,

This came from PASB 2023-6.  There is some other UU 2 information in that issue. Also check 89-5  and 1990-6 pg 9   The  Broodmoor cars had .046 jets for high altitude use, see 72-1 pg 7. There are a lot of articles on the UU 2 carbs in other Bulletins. Do a search in the technical search tool with just UU 2 Carburetor in the Title box.

Dave

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The Wiring and Tune up Guide is available for viewing or download on the PAS website under Publications > Owners and Service Manuals. There also are a few unbound printed copies available from the Company Store.

https://pierce-arrow.org/members/owners-manuals/

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James,

I hope the parts info will be useful to you. Yes a Series 51 is on my wish list, but as you mentioned, out of my price range. The Locomobile 48 would be up there also.  Dave

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James,

Do you have a Series 31/51?  If so, it does not show on your record and I would like to get the information to update it.

Thanks,  Dave

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James,

Is this what you need?

 

 

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From the Series 33 Parts Book. It does give Delco numbers. It looks like the distributor is a 5216.

 

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I have a copy of the Series 33 parts book which would have the Pierce part numbers, but I’m not sure that would help you.  Yes, the 00 grease is used in tractors and lawn mowers. There is a good article on that Distributor in PASB 85-1, downloadable under publications on the website. PASB 83-6 has some aftermarket point numbers.  If the distributor has the part number tag on it, you might try calling Brillman and seeing if they can cross reference. It’s a long shot.

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Hi Larry,

I can’t help you with the parts, they are where you find them.  Series 33 and 36 parts are difficult to come by. Keep watching Ebay and similar sites. You might check with Brillman Co. and see if they have anything. You could also put a wanted ad in the Emporium.

As far as the grease, I have been told the closest thing to the old cup grease is the white lithium grease you get in a tube. The other kind might be grade 00 grease which is a light grease that will actually flow a little. I think 140 oil might be too thin.

Dave

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Auction Site:  https://www.broadarrowauctions.com/vehicles?utf8=%E2%9C%93&q%5Bbranch_id_eq%5D=18&q%5Bftx_search_cont%5D=pierce-arrow

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In reference to Dennis’ comment about the caps being different, the ’33 Archer has a wider base than the ’32. The cap will fit either year. See photos below. Sorry I can’t help you with the parts. John Cislak may have them. Office Phone: 413/543-9017
Email: [email protected]

1932 Archer

 

1933 Archer

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Fred,

Contact Bob Koch in Washington. He has a ’37 1703 that he restored and may be able to answer some of your questions. His contact information is in the Member Roster.

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For information on the cooling system download PASB 2019-6 (Water Jackets) and 2018-6 (Rust Removal) from the website.

A common way to prevent loosened rust flakes from moving to the radiator is to use the foot section of a woman’s nylon stocking. Remove the upper radiator hose, insert the stocking, fold the  stocking edge over the outside of the hose and the hose clamp over that to hold it in place.

Actually, 1927 was the first year Pierce-Arrow offered a brake booster. ’27 and ’28 were a vacuum booster. No booster ’29-32. A mechanically driven booster from 1933-35.  1936-38 again had a vacuum booster.

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