[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Carl,

I am a little confused (a common thing),  are you actually seeing an arc from the coil case to the firewall? To me this says a breakdown inside the coils.  Can you clarify?  Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Try John Cislak.  413/543-9017.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Hi Carl,

If you do a search in the technical search tool, you will get a lot of articles about the archers (there was none for 1930).  Enter “Archer” in the “Title” box.

There is a short article in PASB 1999-3, page 8 on 1930.

https://pierce-arrow.org/members/service-bulletin-library/

There also is information on the Bareheaded Archer in Arrow 1967-1. If you want it, I may be able to e-mail you a digital copy.

Dave

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Brooks,

You might check with the LeMay collection in Tacoma. There are two LeMays,  the original LeMay collection, and the newer LeMay, Americas Car Collection. I would try the original, on the Marimont campus first. Either may have some knowledge of an earlier Seattle collection. Harold LeMay had 1000s of cars.

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Brooks,

That serial number is not listed in the PAS database nor in Bernie Weis’ files, so no help there. Hopefully somebody in the group knows something about it.

Dave

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Mike,

From Service Bulletin 97-5:

1929 points and Rotor
(To: a member with a 1929 Pierce) ’29
The distributor on your 1929 is a Delco-Remy #668-E. Standard Brands
point sets #DR-2437-P and #DR-2236-P will work. Also, Echlin parts,,rotor
#RR-99 and contact assembly #CS 779-A, are designed to interchange.
The Delco-Remy part numbers for the points are: contact arm #813238,
and point #825452.
(OHK)

You might also check with John Cislak,  Office Phone: 413/543-9017
Email: [email protected]

Dave

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Yep, the bell of the horn is blocking the view of the number.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Yes, that is a casting number, not the engine number. Do you have any photos higher up on that side of the block that might show the engine number?

I see what you mean about the casting date code. It certainly looks like “1” or an “I”.  An “I” would indicate 1928 which I guess is theoretically possible  since I believe the first ’29 car came out in very late 1928. But I think May of ’28 is pretty unlikely.  We really  need the correct engine number.

Dave

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Dennis,

Yes, the serial number indicates a 1929 Sedan.  The engine number in that car should start with A-.  Looking at near cars by serial number, it would be A-5xxx.  Please confirm for me that the engine number you have was stamped on a flat on the left side of the engine. The reason I am questioning the engine number is the only 8 cyl. engine numbers in PAS records that start with 1xxxxx are from a 1930 Model C, and these numbers only go to 102806. Attached is a photo of another 8 cyl engine with your exact number cast into the block, This is not the engine number. I have also attached a photo of the left side of an 8 cyl showing the correct location of the engine number.  ’31 engine numbers start with 22xxxx or 32xxxx.

Records we have on that car only show the ownership (Robert Howe of MA) up to the late ’60s. Interestingly, that record has a question mark for the engine number. Is it your car or do you have any other ownership history? If you have a high res photo of the left side of the engine you could e-mail me it would really help. Sorry to keep throwing questions at you.

Do you have anything to worry about? It depends on how much you value originality. If you want it for a show car, it would probably cost a few points. It is hard to say the effect on value, but I would think a little maybe, again, unless someone wants it as a show car, it would be more. As far as points loss, you would have to check with Rick Horne, PAS head judge.

As a driver, I wouldn’t think it would make a lot of difference. I am not that familiar with the working of the 8 cyl. engines, so I will let someone more knowledgeable comment on which might be the better engine. There are some differences in different years. Depending on year and what model it came from, it might actually have a larger displacement than the original.

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Dennis,

What year car is this in? How many cylinders? Are you sure the 123379 number is not a casting number? It does not fit in any P-A engine number sequence I can find. There are several cars listed in the PAS database with this as the engine number which makes me think it is a casting number.  If this is an 8 cyl., the engine number should be STAMPED on a flat midway down the block at the joint with the head on the driver’s side. A correct serial number would indicate the year.

The other number looks like a casting date code, except that it should start with a letter.  5-16 = May 16th. If the first character were a “J”, it would be 1929. Could it possibly be an “L”, which would be 1931?

Dave

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Have you checked with John Cislak?

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Kevin,

See Service Bulletin ’78-2. It is available in the Service Bulletin Library under Publications on the website.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Brooks,

There is no ownership time listed in Bernie’s files.

Dave

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Brooks,

A car purporting to be Preston Tucker’s car (1936 1602 Convertible Coupe) is in the PAS records and the Weis files as belonging to a Monty Holmes in Washington. He apparently passed away last year, so we have no record as to the current owner. Possibly a family member?

Dave

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Hi Terry,

I think they just used the picture of your former car to show the windwings they are looking for. By serial number, different cars. Their car has a long history in Spain.

Dave

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I spoke with one of Paul’s caregivers this morning. He is unable to take calls at this time

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Hi Rosa,

The car has been transferred to your record. We show it as a 1930 Model A Phaeton.

Let us know if you are unable to find the wind wings.

Dave

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Rosa,

Your best bet is to contact John Cislak (see below).  He has lots of parts for ’30s era Pierce-Arrows. If he doesn’t have any, he may know of someone that does.  I do know of a glass company that can make the glass portion, but they wouldn’t have the brackets. If you want this information, I will find it for you.

I would like to enter your car’s information onto your PAS record, could you supply me the year, model serial and engine numbers?

Thanks,

Dave

Cislak, John E.
33 Briggs ST
Indian Orchard, MA 01151-2105
United States
Home Phone: 413/543-9017
Office Phone: 413/543-9017
Email: [email protected]

 

 

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Do you have the mounting brackets and just need the glass, or do you need the complete wind wing, glass and bracket?

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Ed,

The easiest way to check mixture is to look at a spark plug.  I usually drive the car and pull over, shut it off and pull a plug after it cools a little. The plug tip insulator should be light tan. White indicates too lean, black too rich.  See:  https://blackhawkparamotor.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Spark-Plug-Color-For-Paramotor-Engines.pdf

Doing a web search for ” How to check mixture by reading a spark plug” will give you all kinds of information.

Another option is to get a tailpipe “sniffer”.

Dave

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