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I just installed two of these, excellent product. These work either left or right side.
I believe what we see now as “left and right” on original brackets is actually warpage, as you see a slight angle difference on original brackets. I measured ordinal sand this seems to be in the 4 to 6 degree range, and hard for me to think they’d have made brackets differently with that small angle.
Either way, if there is a slight angle, the mounting holes on these new brackets can be enlarged and entire bracket mounted at the slight angle.
Very nice product, I recommend them highly….
Personally, Ryan, I think you should go to the auction prepared to bid on the car. Then, if it bids to a reasonable number that you’re comfortable with, buy it at the auction. I realize there are bidders premiums and such, but just figure that into your offer.
If you buy it at the auction, then there’s no issue with your relatives on the purchase price.
It’s a shame that your cousin couldn’t come to an agreement with you, but when it comes to money it seems that relationship doesn’t matter to some people.
I sure hope you end up with the car, it’s a beauty!
On the 34, if you remove the back seat cushion, there’s an electrical junction station on the floor, passenger side, at rear of car.
A live feed from battery goes to this group of push-in connectors. The live feed for lights comes from there, as well as a heavier gauge wire that goes to the cigarette lighter.
Most of the wiring is behind the passenger side rear side panel, You could remove enough to get to wiring, but it’s taking out some upholstery that isn’t made for easy removal and replacement.
The car I rewired is a ’34 840 four door sedan. That’s how it was factory wired.
It could be that other models were done differently.
The 34 sedan I’m finishing has the following:
-solid wire, ground
-hot wire from junction behind rear seat, “Y’s”, with one hot going to panel toggle switch, one hot going to door plunger switch
-one wire from toggle and one wire from plunger going to dome light
If your toggle works, and other wire to dome light is hot, then the plunger switch has shorted, Take it. Out and test…
One of the saddest things I’ve seen in my life are families that get at odds over money, usually an inheritance. Not in my family, but I’ve seen it first hand, and I’ve seen it so many times with car collections.
I’m not appraising, just making a comment. Your cousin should sell you the car at somewhere around 30K, be happy they have a good home for it, and move on with life. Trying to squeeze every penny out of the car will end up badly for them.
As we all know, when an auction company tells you “reserve of $46K”, it’s meaningless. As soon as the bidding gets to any good number at all, they’ll be hounding the consigner to raise the reserve (i.e. car sells at that bid).
There was a fellow who passed away locally and number of years ago, his son-in-law was a car dealer. In the collection was a ’36 Pierce convertible coupe, V-12, but had Seagraves heads on it and may have been a Seagraves engine.
I went to look at the car, and asked what he wanted for it. “My father-in-law always said it was worth over $100K”. Oh, I said. What do you think, he asked. No, anything I say will just aggravate you. No, no, that’s fine, what do you think? So, I offered him $50K for the car, and of course he got PO’ed at me, saying I was crazy.
The sent it to an auction in Florida, final hammer was $56K. He’d have been a lot better off taking my offer….
And that’s how it goes with dispersal of a collection….
While I appreciate that you’re asking for value information, it’s a real minefield for someone to give you a value based on looking at a few pictures. Car looks very nice, but could be hidden issues the pictures don’t show.
It would be more helpful if you stated something like “the family thinks that it’s worth at least $xxxx”, and then we could give you our opinion of that valuation.
The minefield comes when the family thinks it’s a $100,000 car, which it’s not, and someone here states that it’s worth X, much less than what the family thinks. Then, hard feelings ensue.
I look at pictures and I can think of a range of value for the car, at least in my mind, but again, if I told you that figure and your family thinks it’s worth two or three times that, then the danger is your family thinking “darn Pierce Arrow folks, trying to undervalue and steal our car”…..
So, my best advice to you is to come up with a dollar figure your family thinks it’s worth (and everyone has a number in mind, in my experience), let us know what it is, and we’ll tell you if it’s reasonable. If it is in the reasonable range, then you might even sell it here and save transportation and auction fees.
If you think the $2400 maintenance bill was bad (which does sound high, unless he dropped the gas tank and rebuilt carb and so forth), wait until you see what it costs to run a car through a major auction…..
I’m trying to quit rectifying!!
Had some good friends bring me a front seat out of a 1934 Franklin.
Here’s how it went.
Them:Lets just put a cover over the old seat
Me: OK, just any old material?
Them: No, let’s use new broadcloth like original
Me: Over the old seat that’s torn and worn?
Them: Sure, we think the padding and springs are fine….
Me: Hmmm, I feel a lump here, hope it’s not a dead mouse!
Them: Oh, we hate mice in the cars
Me (lifting up torn seat and cover): So I guess you REALLY don’t like this huge mouse nest that’s in the springs? I’m not covering that up with new material.
Them: Yikes!
Me: Take apart, clean, new socks for springs, new padding, or you can take it home as is (said nicely!)
Them: OK, proceed, we need it in two weeks.
Me: Yikes!
Upholstery guy is always last on the list, when the restorer has spent tons of money already and there’s a deadline to finish!
Thanks. For some reason my Ebay search is not bringing up the car, interesting, but the link works.
Looks like a good car, priced on the high end, to me, for an unknown car. If one could go look at and drive it, then decision might be easier.
From an upholstery perspective, not real impressed, but it’s serviceable.
I can’t find it on Ebay, can someone post a link? thanks
Needs work but looks solid, poor interior has seen better days…says it needs a set of tires to be roadworthy and we all know what tires cost these days…
Hope it finds a good home…
Thanks! Dc
By the way, still looking for plaques for the following meets:
24,34,43,49, 51 though 59. (yes, I know I should have attended some of those!)
And, I’m unsure about 1963, I have a “Lanc. Co. Pa. Dutch Eastern Meet”, Aug. 2-3-4 1963, was there another meet that year also? It doesn’t say “annual meet” which is why I’m curious.
Have many years to trade, or will buy….thanks David C.
(ps….
A little back story, I needed to talk to Greg soon after the picture was posted.
The conversation was:
Hey, Greg, see you working at coffee place.
What?
Yeah, picture posted.
Um, David, I have no idea what you’re talking about.
The picture…oh, you haven’t seen it.
My Father always told me, put your best foot forward, use the one in your mouth, it’s the clean one…
Well, with the prices of Pierce Arrows being so steeped, I understand the grounds for him making a little extra money, and I have to expresso my admiration for his grande scheme….
Bob, I remember that one, we had the cling rate on the phrenometer turned up too high, exciting the cycloramas multicoilometer, which then sent an erratic signal to the phronus multivalve.
Luckily, no one was injured…..ah, that picture sure brings back memories….
Thank you so much for bringing up this topic.
I spent a year of my Engineering career looking at the encapsulated phrenometer, a theory much like the one that you have mentioned.
I, too, think it would have saved Pierce, but the emogulator that was designed, and had to be by the way, because of the angloid parniperty that existed in the original conception, was in no way compatible with the gloicoid connection that existed in the Pierce drivetrain.
In fact, it was very clear soon on that the Eggulators that drove the transversal enomitors would soon wear out, cause a major strain on the bigarcal joint and thus, very possibly, causing the entire circus to shut down.
I’m very thankful that these people did research, and I’m glad that in my year of study I realized that the emucaulating fulcrums and the calcanting levers just would not work in this application.
But hey, that’s how us Engrineers move forward and make the world a better place!
Most of the credit should go to Liz, she’s great to work with and does such a fabulous job of making the newsletter so visually appealing.
There are thousands of words out there, I just try to gather the ones that are relevant and in the correct order.
Glad to see the Museum is getting good exposure. I’m glad Merlin (who uses flattery as a battering ram) compelled me …uh…asked me to volunteer!
thanks dc
Me too, please, I should have asked to look at one when I was visiting, Merlin!!
Well, the $15K for 15 mats, which of course includes, on his part, development of electronic drawing so he can then fabricate mold, and then fabrication of mold stand, and leveling for mold stand. This is a figure that I negotiated from a higher original quote.
He’s done mats for the Buick club, and I understand the quality is excellent. He does not want to do these for a living, his words, but wants to make the money on the 15 and then be done.
Thus, after 15 mats, the mold belongs to “us”.
My plan was to work with the Museum to add the mats as another item that could be offered as part of their parts supply project.
The fabricator tells me that each mat takes about $300 worth of materials, and approximately 4 hours of labor, to make, once the mold is in place and level.
There, that’s full disclosure for sure! I’m not trying to make any money on this, I’d just like to have a new mat, as my original is so fragile I don’t wish to use it. I’d buy a mat, so that’s two spoken for at $1000. If someone else wants to take over the project or front the money, I have no problem with that, I’m just not in a position to put that kind of money on a “what if”.
Thanks for all the discussion and interest.
