[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jack,

The brass will only be shiny for a while and then it will go dull.

Black paint will maintain its finish longer than brass.

Personally, I have a nickel plated brass, sink-down-tube (?) as my lower radiator water pipe.

Peter

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Jack,

Also, with the few bolts that were larger than the remains 35+ bolts, I had my machinist reduce the size of the heads so that all of the bolt heads appear to be the same size, even though two or three were larger sized diameters.

I didn’t want it to look like a botched job, and it doesn’t.

Peter

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Jack,

you already outlined the program, that is, remove all of the bolts, but use some PB Blaster on them first and let them sit for a few days before attempting to remove them.

Then, very gently rock the bolts back and forth a bit as you work to remove them.

I believe that I tapped all of the bolt holes in my Series 80 head when I removed my father jacket many years ago.

One or two needed to be tapped at the next larger size.

Also, be prepared to find a virtual TON of RUST Flakes in the cooling chamber.

I spooned out the majority of the flakes with a Tablespoon and then went after the remainder with a magnetic pick-up.

If you have power (I didn’t at the time), a Shop Vac should do a good job.

I literally took out at least a quart of rust flakes.

When replacing the bolts, you will of course use Stainless Steel bolts.

I ground the markings on the heads of the bolts so that there were no markings remaining.

Selling the water jacket in place required a bunch of Permatex Ultra-Black sealer, I believe, but mine is now water-tight.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Happy Birthday David!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Gents,

If you need help on these matters, go straight to Mr. Ed.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Gents,

Leaded gas is available through small private airports, but they may not pump it into automobiles.

You may need to bring a few 5-gallon jugs.

Below is a website for Pure Gas!

Peter

http://www.pure-gas.org

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I too have a NOCO 3500 charger and it is GREAT, although it does take its time to charge a 6V Optima battery.

It has to go through all of its cycles before it lets go and indicates that the battery is charged.

It will bring the Optima up to 6.2V / 6.3V and then blinks GREEN at you (final stage of charging) for an interminable duration.

I recently KILLED my two-Optima 6V Red tops (? a switch was on or some other unknown reason for a draw?) and the NOCO 3500 would not recognize the DEAD Optima battery.

I connected my two Optima 6Vs to a 6V Wet-Cell for 24-hours, or so, and that brought the Optima batteries up to a point where the NOCO 3500 would recognize the batteries.

Then, it brought one up pretty well.

I then charged them one at a time.

I left one on a 6V Battery Tender and even that did a FAIR job, but not like the NOCO.

EESCH, I hate it when something happens to kill the Optima battery .

Also, I sent NOCO an email about whether the 3500 is good for charging AGM batteries, and they DID NOT REPLY!

Optima sells very nice chargers, but NONE that have a setting to charge their 6V battery!

Go figure that one out!

From now on, when I am out on a tour or out for a long ride, I will have my two Optima batteries in the battery box, but with only one connected.

BTW, if you attempt to use a 12V jump pack THROUGH THE BATTERY, you can FRY the gauges and anything else in line.

That would be BAD!

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Maybe they WANTED to have a BLAST?

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jak,

Excellent comment and info.

The headlight glow produced by my 6-volt, 1925, Series 80 is abysmal!

A safe traveling speed on a poorly lit street at night is 20-mph!

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Not only do you NOT HAVE To wind it ou in First gear, as David indicates, just get it moving, MAX 5-mph, and then shift gently into Second gear.

I am the KING of Gear Clashing in my Series 80.

Lord, I HATE doing it, and the more I drive the car each driving season, the less I do it.

I just BEAM when I make a Clash-less shift.

BTW, does the 1929 have a Clutch Brake?

I was told that on the Series 80, if one pushes the clutch pedal all the way to the floor, it causes a Clash when one shifts because it stops one of the transmission components from spinning.

Maybe that is accurate, but maybe I just Clash.

It also may have something to do with my standard driving outfit, which is PURPLE & GREEN!

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jak,

Excellent comment and info.

The headlight glow produced by my 6-volt, 1925, Series 80 is abysmal!

A safe traveling speed on an unlit street at night is 20 -25-mph!

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Eric,

Congratulations!

i know that you will be in touch with the other PAS members with experience on getting your 1701 rolling along as a Pierce-Arrow Twelve should.

Remember that it will pass anything on the road, that is, EXCEPT a gas station.

This is a Great Group for advice, and remember to ask a few the same question and then sort out the answers offered.

Peter

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Richard,

You should consider your mechanic’s drive a “Test Drive / Shakedown Cruise.”

The Maiden Drive comes when the OWNER takes his Maiden out for a spin in his spiffy, beautifully restored, 1929, Model 133, Dual Cowl Phaeton, Pierce-Arrow Motorcar.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Richard,

I believe that the fender-mounted headlight “option” did not arrive on Pierce-Arrow motorcars until 1914.

So, if there was a rider in a saddle, he was astride a fender (hopefully on the left side) adjacent to a gas powered headlight (right-hand steering wheel).

OUCH!

They may have needed such a rider to navigate the roads at night.

Perhaps, he held a flashlight!

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Can one imagine the quality of the roads in 1910 from Sacramento to Los Angeles?

And then to average 50-mph in the race!

That is a BIG WOW!

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Bob,

Are you talking about the floor material on your Series 81?

That should be battleship linoleum, perhaps deteriorated, but it should be linoleum.

If you are asking about a material that is under a floor mat / rug in the front seating area that lies upon the linoleum, then it is up to someone else to provide an answer.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Gents,

Keep it up!

I need more Pierce-Arrow photos for my screen saver!

Thanks!

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Richard,

Just so you don’t feel too badly, the photo is amusing and the comments are better.

Rodney is rather matter-of-fact about his Pierce-Arrow cars and their condition.

There are no Trailer-Queens in his collection, that is unless they are Cattle Trailers.

He is a True Cowboy and sponsors an outstanding tour.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Gents,

GREAT RESPONSE!

Keep them coming.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

David,

Thanks, but I saw this before.

Although it is veery nice, I was looking for the standard offering in the Activities section where there are single photos of each of the cars in attendance.

They are usually posted within a week or two of the Annual Meet.

Maybe no one took any photos and turned them over to our esteemed webmaster.

Maybe people who frequent the Message Bard and who took photos at the Meet will post a few.

They would be good to share.

Peter

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