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Jack,
As for most things Series 80/81, contact Greg Long.
Peter
Jack & Greg,
The Paul Jacobs Cylinder Block / Radiator Neck is of excellent quality and the bottom is Piano-Wire Flat / Straight.
It is not aluminum.
There was no problem attaching one of Paul’s reproductions to my Series 80 without leaks, but of course, I followed the procedure outlined above by Greg.
Jack, keep at it and you will get that engine working properly.
Then, you will host discussions here on other matters (brakes, electrical, etc.).
BTW, the thermostat number: 248-160 is what you need, as finding a “Federated” 248-160 may be near impossible.
Other makes (viz., Motorad) are available, and note that 248 is the size, and 160 is the temperature.
You should be able to get one for under $20.00.
Peter
Jack,
In reviewing the Parts & Services page on the website, I see that Karl Krouch may also offer a cylinder block / radiator neck, but I do not know the details of it.
Peter
Jack,
To add to Greg’s finger blistering comments, i offer some details.
Paul Jacobs, a PAS member offers a radiator neck that is made of some composition material that will not corrode.
Regarding the sacrificial anode, you can pick one up at a Marine Supply store. When you get it, just place it in the cooling chamber of the cylinder block, or as Greg suggested, in the upper radiator tank, and you will be good to go.
Apropos of the modern, 160-degree thermostat, I attach a photo of what you want.
After you acquire said thermostat, then you can drill two small holes in the base to allow for minor water / coolant flow.
I believe that everything else Greg posted covers the bases.
Also, regarding Randy’s posting, the water jacket gasket,, and of course the water jacket, has a wonky arrangement of the bolt holes with the bottom left having an non-symmetrical extra hole, but you will figure it out in one shot: up, down, left, right, oh yeah!
Peter
Jack,
BTW, the pipe is brass because brass won’t RUST away as would steel.
Peter
Jack,
The water jacket gasket is cork and with the Permatex, will be leak free.
Just make sure that when you put it on the cylinder block side that you hit the holes a touch with the Permatex, or at least tight to them.
Then, make sure you cover to the edges of the gasket, both sides.
Olsen Gasket sells a full sent of gaskets for the Series 80 / 81, but making your own gives a real sense of accomplishment.
Peter
Jack,
There is also a gasket that surrounds the water jacket.
That is affixed to the cylinder block with the Permatex Ultra Black sealer and similarly to the water jacket cover.
Don’t be skimpy with the Permatex, but don’t glob it on.
Also, you need copper crush washers for correct seating of the bolts.
They are impossible to find at a reasonable price, check Restoration Supply, and after you do, be in touch with me, as I have a Supply that I will sell for much less than the Resto price.
Peter
Jack,
The brass will only be shiny for a while and then it will go dull.
Black paint will maintain its finish longer than brass.
Personally, I have a nickel plated brass, sink-down-tube (?) as my lower radiator water pipe.
Peter
Jack,
Also, with the few bolts that were larger than the remains 35+ bolts, I had my machinist reduce the size of the heads so that all of the bolt heads appear to be the same size, even though two or three were larger sized diameters.
I didn’t want it to look like a botched job, and it doesn’t.
Peter
Jack,
you already outlined the program, that is, remove all of the bolts, but use some PB Blaster on them first and let them sit for a few days before attempting to remove them.
Then, very gently rock the bolts back and forth a bit as you work to remove them.
I believe that I tapped all of the bolt holes in my Series 80 head when I removed my father jacket many years ago.
One or two needed to be tapped at the next larger size.
Also, be prepared to find a virtual TON of RUST Flakes in the cooling chamber.
I spooned out the majority of the flakes with a Tablespoon and then went after the remainder with a magnetic pick-up.
If you have power (I didn’t at the time), a Shop Vac should do a good job.
I literally took out at least a quart of rust flakes.
When replacing the bolts, you will of course use Stainless Steel bolts.
I ground the markings on the heads of the bolts so that there were no markings remaining.
Selling the water jacket in place required a bunch of Permatex Ultra-Black sealer, I believe, but mine is now water-tight.
Peter
Happy Birthday David!
Gents,
If you need help on these matters, go straight to Mr. Ed.
Peter
Gents,
Leaded gas is available through small private airports, but they may not pump it into automobiles.
You may need to bring a few 5-gallon jugs.
Below is a website for Pure Gas!
Peter
I too have a NOCO 3500 charger and it is GREAT, although it does take its time to charge a 6V Optima battery.
It has to go through all of its cycles before it lets go and indicates that the battery is charged.
It will bring the Optima up to 6.2V / 6.3V and then blinks GREEN at you (final stage of charging) for an interminable duration.
I recently KILLED my two-Optima 6V Red tops (? a switch was on or some other unknown reason for a draw?) and the NOCO 3500 would not recognize the DEAD Optima battery.
I connected my two Optima 6Vs to a 6V Wet-Cell for 24-hours, or so, and that brought the Optima batteries up to a point where the NOCO 3500 would recognize the batteries.
Then, it brought one up pretty well.
I then charged them one at a time.
I left one on a 6V Battery Tender and even that did a FAIR job, but not like the NOCO.
EESCH, I hate it when something happens to kill the Optima battery .
Also, I sent NOCO an email about whether the 3500 is good for charging AGM batteries, and they DID NOT REPLY!
Optima sells very nice chargers, but NONE that have a setting to charge their 6V battery!
Go figure that one out!
From now on, when I am out on a tour or out for a long ride, I will have my two Optima batteries in the battery box, but with only one connected.
BTW, if you attempt to use a 12V jump pack THROUGH THE BATTERY, you can FRY the gauges and anything else in line.
That would be BAD!
Peter
Maybe they WANTED to have a BLAST?
Jak,
Excellent comment and info.
The headlight glow produced by my 6-volt, 1925, Series 80 is abysmal!
A safe traveling speed on a poorly lit street at night is 20-mph!
Peter
Not only do you NOT HAVE To wind it ou in First gear, as David indicates, just get it moving, MAX 5-mph, and then shift gently into Second gear.
I am the KING of Gear Clashing in my Series 80.
Lord, I HATE doing it, and the more I drive the car each driving season, the less I do it.
I just BEAM when I make a Clash-less shift.
BTW, does the 1929 have a Clutch Brake?
I was told that on the Series 80, if one pushes the clutch pedal all the way to the floor, it causes a Clash when one shifts because it stops one of the transmission components from spinning.
Maybe that is accurate, but maybe I just Clash.
It also may have something to do with my standard driving outfit, which is PURPLE & GREEN!
Peter
Jak,
Excellent comment and info.
The headlight glow produced by my 6-volt, 1925, Series 80 is abysmal!
A safe traveling speed on an unlit street at night is 20 -25-mph!
Peter
Eric,
Congratulations!
i know that you will be in touch with the other PAS members with experience on getting your 1701 rolling along as a Pierce-Arrow Twelve should.
Remember that it will pass anything on the road, that is, EXCEPT a gas station.
This is a Great Group for advice, and remember to ask a few the same question and then sort out the answers offered.
Peter
Richard,
You should consider your mechanic’s drive a “Test Drive / Shakedown Cruise.”
The Maiden Drive comes when the OWNER takes his Maiden out for a spin in his spiffy, beautifully restored, 1929, Model 133, Dual Cowl Phaeton, Pierce-Arrow Motorcar.
Peter
