[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Bob,

How does that puller attach to the wheel?

It looks like it screws on to the hub in place of the hub-cap.

Did you remove all of the washers and cotter-pins?

The photo shows what seems to be a Black washer in the opening.

Should that come out so that all you see is the end of the axle?

You also may need to move the car forward an back a bit, like 3-feet, back and forth, to “break” the wheel a bit loose.

On the front wheels, you. may need to turn the steering wheel left and right to break the seal / jam.

I did that a few years ago and found that I needed to put the wheel-puller on the wheel, torque it hard with a BIG WRENCH (or 1/2-inch socket with a pipe on it to increase the torque) and let it sit, on the wheel – torqued, for a day or so.

Even then, the wheel / wheels did not want to come off easily (50-year-old dried axle grease).

When you are doing this, I assume that you have the car on jack-stands so that the wheel is off of the ground.

If you do as I suggested about leaving it for a day or two torqued, you should also re-torque it once or twice a day (if it is possible) to increase the torque.

Good luck,

Peter

 

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Gents & Ladies,

I will keep you posted as the time comes.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I bought one of those a few years ago and it cost nowhere near the current asking price.

I may have even bought it from Ernie at one of the PAS Meets.

Mine is done on heavy gauge steel and has a hard enamel paint finish.

It is very robust and very nice, just as I would expect from the current Follis offering.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Robert,

Years ago, I had Coker MAKE me a Split Rim for my Series 80.

I sent them a detailed drawing of the rim, cross-section included, along with photos of it.

I also sent a photo of the locking mechanism.

The rim was a size that they did not make (width-wise), but they did create it for me.

It cost a few bucks, but they got a very nice one to me in relatively short order.

However, you may have already had this conversation with them.

Good luck and perhaps you need to scour eBay.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Rick,

You do an Excellent Job running the PAS Emporium!

Thank You!

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I likewise recall that posting prices on the Emporium required posting an offering price.

I also have some recollection that one should not post items for sale on the Message Board, but that you can post the availability of an item and then direct people to the Emporium to view said item / items with pricing.

I believe this policy should continue and enforced, even if in the past I was guilty of various infractions in posting a price on a piece I was offering for sale.

Rick Morrison, are you the Gent to enforce this practice?

Could you contact PAS members who make an error and post without pricing?

It is not a Huge Deal, but an important detail that we should not overlook.

Peter

 

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Gents,

Greg’s reproduction handle is excellent, even if it does not have the outer sleeve that makes rotation easier when one is crank-starting a car.

That stated, you will not use it for crank-starting your car, but just to move the crankshaft to move the distributor points / valves, etc. for the purpose of adjusting the points and valve clearances.

For those purposes, it is perfect.

Peter

 

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

The crankshaft snout extends outside of the car below the radiator from a radiator skirt.

The snout accepts a square-holed crank handle and does not allow for a handle intended to go inside of the radiator skirt assembly.

See photo of snout cover.

 

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Art,

Check this out on eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hit-Miss-engine-crank-handle-tractor-antique-automobile-collectible-tool-C9/383490653850?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

It should work, but the square hole might be a bit big, so ask the seller for the dimensions.

If it is too small, it can be cut out a bit, I think.

Also, I believe that Greg Long made one for me and although it is not so pretty, it is quite functional.

Good luck,

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Art,

Go to the Company Store section of this website.

There you will find a reproduction of the Series 80 Owner’s Manual and of the Tune Up & Wiring Manual, which covers the Series 80.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

The only rational reason to use the hand crank is to rotate the engine to adjust the valves.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Charles,

They appear to be the same hood hold-downs as on the 1925 Series 80 cars through the 1928 Series 81 cars.

Perhaps, you might broaden your request to include those cars.

Also, although the pickings are not as good as they were 10-years ago, you may want to start running a search on eBay.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

How about a photo that actually shows the latches?

A photo without all of the background noise, please.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

A License Plate Light?

The connection looks like those on my 1925 Series 80 taillight assemblies.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Rod,

Did you have any success?

You may need to remove the Backing Plates (two-per-Front-wheel) and that will give you access to the backside of the break assembly.

If doing that does not help, you may also wish to reach out for assistance to PAS Members; Greg Long or George Teebay.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Rod,

Do you have the Series 80, Care and Operation Manual?

The general information should be in it.

I’ll look in the morning, but by then five other Series 80 Gents will likely have advised you.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/30-31-32-33-34-35-36-37-38-Pierce-Arrow-31-32-33-34-Reo-Distributor-Points/291863601396?hash=item43f46d20f4:g:n~kAAOSwd4tUFyYR

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Curtis,

I believe that John Cislak sells the fiber disks for connecting the fan, to the generator, to the water pump, etc.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Randy,

David is correct.

A COLD SNAP will not freeze the liquid in the radiator of your car stored in a garage.

I store my Series 80 in a 16-ft by 60-ft, unheated storage garage, and because of adjacent heated units, mine never goes below 25-degrees in the midst of a Massachusetts winter where the temperatures range between; 0 & 20-degrees Fahrenheit for one to two months.

I use NAPA-Cool, and my radiator never “slushes.”

I believe that the PAMCC recommended the use of 50% solution of ETOH & H2O.

I check my coolant level every start-up during months of operation and change the coolant every two to three years.

I have no environmental concerns.

My experience with using traditional antifreeze in the “non-pressurized” radiator of my Series 80, was that it FOAMED, and then began being sucked out of the radiator via the overflow pipe.

That essentially reduced the amount of coolant in my radiator by 30% to 50%.  Thrilling!

If you have a pressurized system in your ’31, then regular antifreeze may not be a problem.

There are also non-toxic, environmentally-safe coolants on the market for Marine use, etc.

If you are really worried, a properly placed heating pad might allay your concerns.

I hope that this information helps.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Greg,

Thank you for your input, however I prefer the flame-thrower approach to getting things stirred up.

Peter

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