[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

How about a photo that actually shows the latches?

A photo without all of the background noise, please.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

A License Plate Light?

The connection looks like those on my 1925 Series 80 taillight assemblies.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Rod,

Did you have any success?

You may need to remove the Backing Plates (two-per-Front-wheel) and that will give you access to the backside of the break assembly.

If doing that does not help, you may also wish to reach out for assistance to PAS Members; Greg Long or George Teebay.

Peter

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Rod,

Do you have the Series 80, Care and Operation Manual?

The general information should be in it.

I’ll look in the morning, but by then five other Series 80 Gents will likely have advised you.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/30-31-32-33-34-35-36-37-38-Pierce-Arrow-31-32-33-34-Reo-Distributor-Points/291863601396?hash=item43f46d20f4:g:n~kAAOSwd4tUFyYR

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Curtis,

I believe that John Cislak sells the fiber disks for connecting the fan, to the generator, to the water pump, etc.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Randy,

David is correct.

A COLD SNAP will not freeze the liquid in the radiator of your car stored in a garage.

I store my Series 80 in a 16-ft by 60-ft, unheated storage garage, and because of adjacent heated units, mine never goes below 25-degrees in the midst of a Massachusetts winter where the temperatures range between; 0 & 20-degrees Fahrenheit for one to two months.

I use NAPA-Cool, and my radiator never “slushes.”

I believe that the PAMCC recommended the use of 50% solution of ETOH & H2O.

I check my coolant level every start-up during months of operation and change the coolant every two to three years.

I have no environmental concerns.

My experience with using traditional antifreeze in the “non-pressurized” radiator of my Series 80, was that it FOAMED, and then began being sucked out of the radiator via the overflow pipe.

That essentially reduced the amount of coolant in my radiator by 30% to 50%.  Thrilling!

If you have a pressurized system in your ’31, then regular antifreeze may not be a problem.

There are also non-toxic, environmentally-safe coolants on the market for Marine use, etc.

If you are really worried, a properly placed heating pad might allay your concerns.

I hope that this information helps.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Greg,

Thank you for your input, however I prefer the flame-thrower approach to getting things stirred up.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Don,

Welcome to the Pierce-Arrow Society.

You bought a truly lovely vehicle.

I was going to suggest that if you need hands-on assistance, I may be able to help, but then I realized that Marlborough is almost 2-hours from my home in Hampton Falls.

Regardless, if you feel the need, I will be happy to be of assistance for a day.

You can always reach me by telephone or email for consultation, etc.

I am confident that there are many PAS members in New England who would be happy to be of assistance, and even ONE GUY from Holly, Michigan who seems to travel the country assisting members with serious mechanical work.

Isn’t that right, Greg?

Peter

 

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Karl,

My previous rant here is deleted because it only heightens the angst associated with this topic.

However, I think the need for this entire exchange should not be necessary, but apparently, it is necessary, if for no other reason than to solicit individuals’ opinions.

Cheers,

Peter

 

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

My previous rant here is deleted because it only heightens the angst associated with this topic.

However, my question remains, why do we need to deal with this turgid discussion on the “wonders” of the AACA website?

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Perhaps the current website designer, who the PAS paid a lot of money to create our website, needs to fix this website instead of the PAS Website Development Committee suggesting that we flee to an association with the AACA website.

I do not want to be so associated / connected, even if I am a member of the AACA.

Fix it, don’t flee.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

I have the same experience each time I click on to a Message Board posting, but it only occurs until I scroll, and then it stops.

Then, the next time I look at a posting, WHAM, JITTER & then it STOPS JITTERING!

I thought it was my MackBook Air

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

It is far easier to just top-off your gas tank each time you go for a drive than it is to get a K-S gas gauge to work properly.

The K-S gas gauge is why God created electric gas gauges.

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

The WD-40 Solution, that is, the Red Tube that James mentioned, is the foolproof method.

I bought the kit with the new brass tube, ran it forward to my gauge, installed the fluid with a full tank of gas and then became frustrated when it did not work.

Later, I considered the WD-40 solution, but have yet to install it.

Now, I just fill up before any significant drives.

BTW, I believe that Chris Diekman knows how to properly install the K-S system and make it functional.

Good luck on your quest.

 

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Richard,

I understand that 91 /93 octane fuel (Premium) does not separate / degrade as do the Regular (87) or Mid-Grade (89) gasolines.

The higher octane gas does no harm to a Pierce-Arrow engine.

Below, I post a link to a SUNOCO article on Fuel Stability.

Cheers,

Peter

 

http://www.sunocoracefuels.com/tech-article/octane-stability-high-octane-vs-low-octane-fuels

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jack,

Upon further consideration, I believe that i took my pipes to a local muffler shop and they made up the pipes and got me a correct size muffler that worked for my Series 80.

Peter

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Contact Waldron Exhausts, they are supposed to be on the Parts &  Services section of this website.

Peter

 

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jim,

I am just grousing!

Peter

 

[Author nameAuthor names are only available to PAS members.]

Jim,

I wanted to remove the hinge pins on my Series 80 (front doors, top hinge) so that I could install hinge-mount sideview mirrors.

They would NOT come out!

I too removed the hinge from the door, oiled it and banged the snot out of it.

I could not get them to move!

I took them to my mechanic and he did all types of things to them, but to no avail.

He then asked me if I REALLY wanted it out, and I said yes.

He asked if he could TORCH THEM.

He did, and the pins came out.

I have a can of touch-up paint, so I then repainted them by hand.

Now, they look fine (small exposure), and the PEEP mirrors are in place and quite helpful.

If you are messing with a 95-year-old motorcar, expect to occasionally be stopped dead in your tracks for a few hours until you figure out how to execute what you thought would be a 20-minute job.

Peter

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