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Please let me know how it works out with the edging, I’m still a ways off of needing it.

This might explain why I had that service letter picture so easily available: I spent time today setting my oil pump back in the right orientation which was a lot easier when I had it 180 degrees off… that only took one attempt, getting it right took 6 or 7 as I kept hitting one tooth either side of the right one. Now that’s done I can get the pan back up while I wait on my head from the machine shop.

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This comes to mind, there’s a minimum order length of 10 feet so plenty to work with until you get the length right. Putting the seam under the wires should hide it from view. I haven’t ordered any yet but there’s many sizes and styles to choose from.

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/rubber-edge-trim/inside-width~1-32/outside-height~1-4/

 

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I don’t know if this was consistent, but this is from 1930 and covered the oil pump alignment in the 8’s.

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If my HOA would allow a container it would be better, but the trailer is the only legitimate thing I can do. If they complain all I have to do is point out every boat trailer in the development and tell them to hit the road or have hundreds of people forced to move them to a storage area. It would be a losing proposition for them and they would know it…

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Thank you, I figured around 4500 for the car but needed that sanity check.

I’m not so much a fan for trailering but I was interested in a mobile garage because I have another car stored at a neighbors place while I’m working on the Pierce and my space is still limited. My truck could just legally handle the empty trailer to move it to the house but an upgrade on the axle and tires will be done for the future and I will find someone that could legally pull it if it needs moved when loaded.

Thank you for the weight. Mark

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I was beat to the Model T line…

The lenses showing up was a surprise that I had missed, but I doubt they would have fit my 31.

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Agree David, I just thought I would mention that and hopefully help keep someone’s privacy intact if that was their desire.

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Having finally watched the presentation there’s just one thing I really believe needs to be addressed is allowing those members who wish to be anonymous by using a profile name in place of their own should not be called out by other members. Over the years I have had three different profiles, the first was lost in a major system glitch in the infancy of the AACA forum for which I am grateful as it gave me an opportunity to create #2… My second profile is an anonymous name and is used when discussing various collectibles of value which I would rather not have the world knowing whose they are. My final profile is my name and is used to talk about my cars, Sell things, and or be helpful. Several people who I have grown to trust know the story of my anonymous profile but I like to keep it segregated for personal reasons (most importantly being that I’ve PO’d several people in the past 20 years…).

I write this because I never knew who Grimmy was before this presentation and feel that it was his option to remain anonymous.

As far as the other arguments against this move, I am cautiously optimistic that it will be a value added benefit to the PAS so long as we members continue to do as Greg suggests by directing the specific questions to the clubs vast data stores of information. If $45 membership isn’t worth the access I would be surprised.

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Oh well, Don asked me to hold off telling who bought it for a few days…

Congratulations Don, and welcome!

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I found out who bought the Phaeton and he is a new member here as of yesterday. Hopefully he will fall in love with it and it will stay with him for a long time, but as mentioned above it would not be difficult to get out of it financially either.

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I have posted a couple things there already because I think the photo hosting is far easier to use than here, but David’s comments bring up some very good points. I too question what level of access is being allowed through the AACA and believe that unrestricted access there will dilute the value of club membership by more than the benefits gained by increased interest it may generate in the cars. Being fairly new here I may be wrong, but once that genie is out of the bottle do we have any options for reversing it?

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Thinking about it I am pretty sure Jim is right, but that is the way I was shown… not to mention that it takes a long time for the brass to cool when the outside temperature is mid 90’s

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Brass is annealed by quenching. I used a propane torch and heated them to a dull red which appeared to chase the flames and turn dark, then very quickly quenched them in a half full 5 gallon bucket of ice water. You would think this does something to the plating but it was surprisingly fine after a quick polish.

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I soaked the one from my 31 for a little over a month before giving up and getting a replacement unit. I still haven’t added the fluid as the car was apart for so long so I still don’t know if it will work…

here’s the link to the replacement I found, you have to type in king seeley and there’s two pages, that second page had my unit. I am not familiar with your later car and it might be different

http://www.classicandexotic.com/store/xsearch

 

 

 

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Thank you for your comments!

Here’s the “tools” I came up with while doing the work on the taillight buckets and rims. These were suggested to me by Greg Long and I would have preferred to make them in metal but I no longer have access to a machine shop so the books are oak and ash. A little crude but I was able to do a lot with them

The first block fits the inside contour and is cut so there is clearance for the lip at the opening, the second one was carved out to support the face radius of the rim, and the bottom one fits the outside contour of the bucket. I also made up some punches from hardwood dowels to fit different contours and use to rub out the brass, they wear out quickly but are easily made. The push-punch and drift punch were slightly rounded at the end for very small sharp dings and the screwdriver was also ground to a radius for using to rub the brass into the wood blocks to remove any creases. The brass wire piece was set on the internal contour block for working kinks out from the ridge. The inner and outer blocks could also be used with a c-clamp to remove the larger dents. If I had access to CNC equipment I could have included the ridge and outer flange contour to these and they would have been a lot smoother to use.

 

The brass used for the taillight parts would quickly work harden and needed to be annealed several times while working the brass especially on the larger denting. I also annealed each piece after the soldering as best as I could without melting the soldered patches I showed above.

Hopefully this will help others out, I pretty much made it up as I went along as there doesn’t seem to be any books on restoring cracked spun brass items.

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This car is being absolutely lambasted on the AACA…

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I agree it’s intriguing but without documentation it doesn’t seem to be worth the price of admission let alone the “restoration” costs. Maybe I am off base there but my $0.02 Worth…

I put quotations on restoration because without the missing provenance what do you do with it???

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You get two thumbs up! Although one of them feels sprained right now as it is amazing what a teeny bit of rust will do to those housings.

Who ever did the interior rewired the lights backwards somehow and I had a dead short when I opened the back door. Now I can hopefully find that short.

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My apologies for the picture at 90 degrees.

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When I took mine apart that was all I could think of too.

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