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I can tell you that my  1933 model 836 with an 8 cylinder engine has a double pulley.

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I have 2 extra rolled edge wheels that are for ’34 but they are artillery wheels so I don’t know if they will do you any good. Don Andersen, Kent WA

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I now have an answer. A nice gentleman called me and gave me the answer. The answer is that there are screws behind the felt on the window channels front and back. There are 2 screws front and back and another screw that holds the channel in place. After removing the top and bottom screws and loosening the center screw, the inside trim ring came right out. Thank you Bob. Don Andersen

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I have the same twist locks on the windshield of my ’33 model 836.  The part on the windshield looks the same but the part on the top of the dash is lower so the latch can pass by.  The part on the top of the dash is flat and is inset into the dash so it is almost flat with the top of the dash. Looks like what you have are raised so the latch can’t pass by.  Hope this helps.  Don

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I had sent my wiper motor  (’33  model 836) to Kent in Oregon (Clean Sweep).  There were several delays and he told me he was having some medical problems.  Eventually I got the motor back in a repaired condition with a note from his niece saying that Kent had moved to Yakima WA to be with his daughter so she can provide needed assist.  Don Andersen

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I got one.  Don

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Are you sure that was not a mouse nest?  They use whatever material they can find.  Don

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Bill,

I can send pictures of my ’33/836 piping.  I don’t however know if it is authentic.  I have cleaned the whole area and reinstalled the oil cooler, etc. exactly as it was when I got the car about a year ago. Those parts appear to be as original.  The car is relatively low millage at 50,000 miles.  Regards,  Don

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I had this same problem a couple of months ago in my ’33 model 836.  I don’t have carpet yet so a little easier.  I was able to raise the back of the floor boards, prop them up and work under them to get to both switches. I removed the switches, cleaned them, bench tested them and reinstalled them with new wires.  Not the worst job to do!  Have fun with Pierce Arrows.  Don

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Art, The crank I have has a completely different end than the pictures you have received,  They are made to turn a square shaft end that protrudes from the bottom of the grille.  The one I have has a “T” end and would go through a crank hole and make connection to the end of the crank shaft behind the radiator.  Maybe not right?  Hope some how things can work.  Don

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I have a hand crank that came with my 1933 model 836.  There is no crank hole in that car so I don’t need the crank and I don’t know what car it is for.  I can send dimensions if you are interested.  Regards,  Don Andersen

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Jak    Thank you for that bit of info.  You never know about these old rigs.  When I can get mine on the road (another year?), I’ll be listening for any strange noises. Regards,  Don

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Thank you Greg.  You have been very helpful in my trying to get my PA back on the road.  I did find the switches, cleaned them, tested them and reinstalled them with new wires. I still have lots to do but am pleased with the progress to this point.  The car hasn’t been driven for more that 40 years so everything has to be checked and corrected.  Regards,  Don

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Bill and James, thank you for your quick response and even great pictures.  You gave me exactly what I deed and more.  PAS is a great organization that has outstanding people.  I am very pleased with having joined.  Regards,  Don

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Thank you all for your input.  The KS gauge sounds like a problematic item the even when working can not be described as working well.  I have not heard of the WD-40 solution.  Can you fill me in on that?  Thanks again,  Don

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Has anybody tried a different fluid in their King Seeley gas gauge?  I know that King Seeley said theirs is the only one that will work and I would say that too if I was selling a few ounces of liquid at todays price of $20.  As a chemist I would think there would be a modern day fluid that could be colored and would not be corrosive.  I have 3 of these gauges, 2 for my ’28 Studebaker and one for my ’33 Pierce.  Faces on all 3 are corroded and one is so badly corroded that it can not be used.  The specified fluid is colorable, low volatility, medium viscosity, corrosive and a good paint remover.  There must me other fluids that will have the same properties except not the last 2, but I don’t want to reinvent the wheel.  So, if someone else has found a good substitute, I’ll be good with it.  If not, I will do some research on my own for something I can use and recommend to others.  Thank you,  Don

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Mark and James, thank you for your responses.  I always like to use original parts when I can but realize the sometimes I can’t.  So it is good to know a source of a replacement part.  And I will try a more aggressive solvent.  Nothing to loose because the gauge is not usable now.  Thank you again,  Don

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Bill,

The dashboard on my 1933 model 836 is also black and looks like the original finish.  The area around the instruments on the instrument panel is also black but the window frame above the dash is wood grain on metal.  Question: is it easier to remove the dash to work on the instruments or to just remove the instrument panel?  Regards,  Don Andersen

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