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My two horns have different internal parts; looks like one has substitute parts. I do not know enough to be sure. The one I think is correct will  sound. This is the internal view:

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Dr. Roger Bise, Event Chair
[email protected]

he’ll fix you up.

 

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Our annual meet is the week of June 8 in Eureka Springs, Arkansas. If you bought an ad in the meet tour book you could expose these two cars to a lot of interested people!

They are rare, desirable models.

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Looks like both cars were auctioned at Sotheby’s Hershey  auction in Fall of 2010; photos still available on their site. Both beauties.

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I think that touring car was in Rockefeller’s museum at Petit Jean Mountain in Arkansas. As I recall it was tan and brown. I could be mistaken, but, if it was, it’s the first Pierce-Arrow I ever saw in person.

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Hi, Jim. I am impressed with the products GrainIt offer; I bought a kit of supplies for my project. It just didn’t match the wood window surrounds in my car at all.
For the 1931 Series 43, only the top bar of the pressed-steel dash, just below the windshield, is grained.

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Thanks, Bob!

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I reply hoping it may help you. In the 1970s my Dad bought a fairly heavy-duty cargo trailer for the farm, and it had vacuum/hydraulic brakes. There was a vacuum booster/ master cylinder mounted on the tongue of the trailer. There was a rubber hose with a quick-connect  that took engine vacuum from a controller on the truck to the assembly on the tongue and I assumed that it applied the trailer brakes in proportion to the braking in the truck. The brakes on thevtrailer were almost identical to those on a 3/4 ton pickup, just hydraulic drum brakes.
This trailer was built in Bryan, Texas, by a company named “Gooseneck” which I think is still in business. Perhaps there are  parts you can use from this industry.

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Maybe Loctite the threads?

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<p style=”text-align: left;”>According to some Stromberg instructions I have read, it is pretty-much expected to need a little choke during the warm-up so with further checks like the ignition timing I may be normal. I suspect my car’s carb heat valve may be stuck closed as well.
As for avgas: as Dave stated, it is high quality and resists deterioration during storage. It is made with a refining process somewhat different from motor fuel. There is obviously no need for high-octane nor for lead in a Pierce-Arrow.</p>

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Hi, Carl. Fuel without added ethanol is easily available here. I use it or 100 octane LL from the airport when I can.

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Thanks! I think I will try to find a pair of 0.050 jets for my car.

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OK thanks, Dave. I was not certain but I assumed a larger number/diameter meant richer. Seems that is correct.

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<p style=”text-align: left;”>Dear Friend, so glad to have you back! Both the tough resilience of your body and the care you received, supervised by Ken of course, were no doubt of Divine origin!</p>
We will surely miss you at the board meeting, but will gladly swap that time for more healing time so you can attend the annual meet at Eureka Springs!

Randy & Kathy Roberson

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So sorry to hear this; hope he is mending well!

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Yes. She beat every muscle car there and got the “Peoples’ Choice” trophy

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Hi, Herb. I understand the workings of free wheeling; what I need is the details of how to dismantle the transmission and install the locking pin which was likely left out of my car’s transmission during previous work.

I drove the ‘35 some in fw at Kalamazoo. It works fine on the open road when there is plenty of momentum to allow time to complete the shifts; best to lock it out around town though.
regards,

RR

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The ‘35 has the pin missing so I propose to rectify this…sooner or later.

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I learned that Mary B Hecht owned my 1927 Series 80 once. Research reveals she was an interesting person and was editor of The Arrow once.

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I have s new hub puller! Thanks everyone for you help and advice. You’re the best!

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