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So sorry to hear this; hope he is mending well!

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Yes. She beat every muscle car there and got the “Peoples’ Choice” trophy

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Hi, Herb. I understand the workings of free wheeling; what I need is the details of how to dismantle the transmission and install the locking pin which was likely left out of my car’s transmission during previous work.

I drove the ‘35 some in fw at Kalamazoo. It works fine on the open road when there is plenty of momentum to allow time to complete the shifts; best to lock it out around town though.
regards,

RR

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The ‘35 has the pin missing so I propose to rectify this…sooner or later.

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I learned that Mary B Hecht owned my 1927 Series 80 once. Research reveals she was an interesting person and was editor of The Arrow once.

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I have s new hub puller! Thanks everyone for you help and advice. You’re the best!

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Hi, Peter, I have not. I had plenty of time to look for a tool but haven’t run across one. Sooner or later I will have to get serious about it.

I hope all is well with you! RR

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Well… turns out “none” IS the correct answer.

This example car has metal covers on the rear springs; none on the front springs. Assuming it was originally equipped with metal covers, and the fronts were not reinstalled during restoration, it would not have clips, according to several PAS Service Bulletins.

I am ordering new covers for the front springs so now I can proceed.

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Confirmed today my 1927 Series 80 has Mazda 1133 single-filament bulbs; they are marked 32 C which may mean 32 candlepower. The reflectors look like they are in good shape.

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Good information, David. I plan to remove a bulb for positive ID then I’ll see what I can find.

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Hi, Paul; I have not. I will look into it.

thanks!

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It’s a beauty; thanks for sharing! Looking forward to the Pierce pics as well.

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This car sold for $33,000

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I always thought (maybe unqualified to do so…) that timing controls were intended to enable the driver to retard spark in case of detonation and not to add advance. Therefore the timing setting was max advance with control so positioned. I realize we may run more advance with modern fuels etc. but I don’t care much for max performance on a Pierce with rare parts, etc.

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Sounds like a Buick straight eight muffler to me…

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It’s never too early to begin a BIG CELEBRATION! Happy Pi Week!

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Another observation: the apparent absence of any glue in any of the joints in the wood I have encountered. There is a substantial finger joint in the top header just above the hinges of the rear doors. I simply pulled/wiggled the joint apart and there wasn’t a sign it was ever glued, nor was it rotted. There are wood pegs in drilled holes which join the lower header to the top section where the roof cross-rails fit into rabbeted oval holes; again no sign of glue. Interesting.

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Interestingly there seems to be a waxy  coating on the backside of the pieces of exterior sheet metal I have removed. No paint.  Where this coating is intact  there is no rust underneath. Good idea from 1930?

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