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Thanks, Bob!

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I reply hoping it may help you. In the 1970s my Dad bought a fairly heavy-duty cargo trailer for the farm, and it had vacuum/hydraulic brakes. There was a vacuum booster/ master cylinder mounted on the tongue of the trailer. There was a rubber hose with a quick-connect  that took engine vacuum from a controller on the truck to the assembly on the tongue and I assumed that it applied the trailer brakes in proportion to the braking in the truck. The brakes on thevtrailer were almost identical to those on a 3/4 ton pickup, just hydraulic drum brakes.
This trailer was built in Bryan, Texas, by a company named “Gooseneck” which I think is still in business. Perhaps there are  parts you can use from this industry.

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Maybe Loctite the threads?

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<p style=”text-align: left;”>According to some Stromberg instructions I have read, it is pretty-much expected to need a little choke during the warm-up so with further checks like the ignition timing I may be normal. I suspect my car’s carb heat valve may be stuck closed as well.
As for avgas: as Dave stated, it is high quality and resists deterioration during storage. It is made with a refining process somewhat different from motor fuel. There is obviously no need for high-octane nor for lead in a Pierce-Arrow.</p>

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Hi, Carl. Fuel without added ethanol is easily available here. I use it or 100 octane LL from the airport when I can.

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Thanks! I think I will try to find a pair of 0.050 jets for my car.

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OK thanks, Dave. I was not certain but I assumed a larger number/diameter meant richer. Seems that is correct.

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<p style=”text-align: left;”>Dear Friend, so glad to have you back! Both the tough resilience of your body and the care you received, supervised by Ken of course, were no doubt of Divine origin!</p>
We will surely miss you at the board meeting, but will gladly swap that time for more healing time so you can attend the annual meet at Eureka Springs!

Randy & Kathy Roberson

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So sorry to hear this; hope he is mending well!

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Yes. She beat every muscle car there and got the “Peoples’ Choice” trophy

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Hi, Herb. I understand the workings of free wheeling; what I need is the details of how to dismantle the transmission and install the locking pin which was likely left out of my car’s transmission during previous work.

I drove the ‘35 some in fw at Kalamazoo. It works fine on the open road when there is plenty of momentum to allow time to complete the shifts; best to lock it out around town though.
regards,

RR

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The ‘35 has the pin missing so I propose to rectify this…sooner or later.

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I learned that Mary B Hecht owned my 1927 Series 80 once. Research reveals she was an interesting person and was editor of The Arrow once.

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I have s new hub puller! Thanks everyone for you help and advice. You’re the best!

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Hi, Peter, I have not. I had plenty of time to look for a tool but haven’t run across one. Sooner or later I will have to get serious about it.

I hope all is well with you! RR

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Well… turns out “none” IS the correct answer.

This example car has metal covers on the rear springs; none on the front springs. Assuming it was originally equipped with metal covers, and the fronts were not reinstalled during restoration, it would not have clips, according to several PAS Service Bulletins.

I am ordering new covers for the front springs so now I can proceed.

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Confirmed today my 1927 Series 80 has Mazda 1133 single-filament bulbs; they are marked 32 C which may mean 32 candlepower. The reflectors look like they are in good shape.

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Good information, David. I plan to remove a bulb for positive ID then I’ll see what I can find.

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Hi, Paul; I have not. I will look into it.

thanks!

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It’s a beauty; thanks for sharing! Looking forward to the Pierce pics as well.

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