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We need to offer some items like this in the Club store.

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Great! I need one so I’ve been looking for this!

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Beautiful! Share more photos!

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A ladies’ nylon stocking serves well in this capacity. You did fine though!

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Beautiful! Thanks for sharing.

 

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Sounds like a fun day! The different heater arrangements used in the early days of the automobile are somewhat interesting. My Series 80 had an air duct on top of or surrounding the exhaust manifold with a round port in the firewall; nothing  but the port is left.
my favorite is the “Whirlwind” gasoline heater made by Stewart-Warner. Interesting design, very effective.

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I needed four for my Series 80. I noticed on my cousin’s newly-restored Jeep: two stainless-steel holddowns that are very close to my worn-out ones. I bought four at a very reasonable price and plan to use them until something better comes along. Look in Jeep parts/accessories.

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Andrew, I have a ‘27 Series 80. Put me down for one of each part. I want to support the Cause.

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A while back someone told me the “Sting” Pierce was in Europe or the UK.

I think the Pierce in the movie “Lawless” is Marc Hamburger’s.

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By the way: anyone have a Series 80 engine number 8022200 itvwas originally in my Series 80. Would like to have it of course!

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More information: I bought the 1927 Series 80 2-door coach 8022114 from Ev Young circaMay 2016. Original engine number on firewall tag is 8022200; number on the right front engine boss is 8016871 (actually in the car now).

I have a copy of a title showing the car was owned by Space Farms of Sussex, NJ, issued May 24, 1989. I understand they sold some vehicles from the museum at auction after the founder’s death, as part of the estate settlement, and this was one of them. The title is signed on the back Eric Space, VP Space Farms, but no buyer is listed.

I did not know any other history so that listed in Mr. Weis’s work is new to me. Thanks.

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• Thanks, Dave, I have not looked at that but will.

I bought the 1931 Series 43 from Merlin Smith; it had a couple of short-time owners in between Mr. Dalton and Merlin. After his death in 1994 Joe Dalton’s widow sold it 6-16-1995 to “The Whole Shop”, a business owned by Robert Clark. He sold it in 2001 to Jim Bibler of Cuyahoga Falls; Merlin bought it from him April 2004. It was his first Pierce-Arrow I understand.

”The Whole Shop” I learned, was started as a small machine shop specializing in holes; hence  it was originally named “The Hole Shop”. After expanding the shop’s capabilities the name was modified.

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Thanks, Dave. I went so far as to remove the pan for a look; only a few tiny particles of white metal so good. I saw nothingvamiss. I removed the oil pump pipe ( fully gasketed, not split, etc) and oil pump. All seemed to be fine so I put it back together and replaced the oil with new.
I even blocked off my rigged-up bypass filter ( with 1/16 inch orifice) which resulted in no noticable change in oil pressure. So far, I think it’s fine and I am inexperienced with Pierce engines.

I think the next complex job might be duplicating the toe board!

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<p style=”text-align: left;”>A Pierce will certainly help one make a small fortune…if you start with a large one…</p>

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The surprising thing I recall learning about a CRT is, only a portion of the original trust assets have to end up at the charity. I have no expertise in this however.

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What a beauty!

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I really think it’s fine: new engine, etc. When I tried to adjust the oil pressure at idle and got little response from the gauge I wasn’t prepared for that. On cold start it does go to at least 20 psi, warm itvregisters 4-5 psi, and it’s not really roadable yet so I haven’t checked the “30 psi at 40 mph” standard as yet.

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My 1931 is all copper from end to end. Original? Maybe, who knows? I suspect in that era probably all metal at least.

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I did get the ‘31’s engine to start and idke. It needs a tappet adjustment and timimg check, but itvsoukds nice. I removed the carb Sunday afternoon and gave it a half-way cleaning. As I don’t have any gaskets or parts (or experience with the Stromberg UUR), I removed the bowl cover, idle needles, and gave it a good spray with carb cleaner, then a flush with clean gasoline. That seemed to do the trick. I let it idle until the temp gauge started up. The oil pressure was about 7 psi.

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Hi, Dave, I am not entirely certain it is, but the fuel pump is working I think.

I have been search-limited as my internet is out. I do plan to do what you suggest.

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