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A while back someone told me the “Sting” Pierce was in Europe or the UK.

I think the Pierce in the movie “Lawless” is Marc Hamburger’s.

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By the way: anyone have a Series 80 engine number 8022200 itvwas originally in my Series 80. Would like to have it of course!

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More information: I bought the 1927 Series 80 2-door coach 8022114 from Ev Young circaMay 2016. Original engine number on firewall tag is 8022200; number on the right front engine boss is 8016871 (actually in the car now).

I have a copy of a title showing the car was owned by Space Farms of Sussex, NJ, issued May 24, 1989. I understand they sold some vehicles from the museum at auction after the founder’s death, as part of the estate settlement, and this was one of them. The title is signed on the back Eric Space, VP Space Farms, but no buyer is listed.

I did not know any other history so that listed in Mr. Weis’s work is new to me. Thanks.

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• Thanks, Dave, I have not looked at that but will.

I bought the 1931 Series 43 from Merlin Smith; it had a couple of short-time owners in between Mr. Dalton and Merlin. After his death in 1994 Joe Dalton’s widow sold it 6-16-1995 to “The Whole Shop”, a business owned by Robert Clark. He sold it in 2001 to Jim Bibler of Cuyahoga Falls; Merlin bought it from him April 2004. It was his first Pierce-Arrow I understand.

”The Whole Shop” I learned, was started as a small machine shop specializing in holes; hence  it was originally named “The Hole Shop”. After expanding the shop’s capabilities the name was modified.

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Thanks, Dave. I went so far as to remove the pan for a look; only a few tiny particles of white metal so good. I saw nothingvamiss. I removed the oil pump pipe ( fully gasketed, not split, etc) and oil pump. All seemed to be fine so I put it back together and replaced the oil with new.
I even blocked off my rigged-up bypass filter ( with 1/16 inch orifice) which resulted in no noticable change in oil pressure. So far, I think it’s fine and I am inexperienced with Pierce engines.

I think the next complex job might be duplicating the toe board!

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<p style=”text-align: left;”>A Pierce will certainly help one make a small fortune…if you start with a large one…</p>

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The surprising thing I recall learning about a CRT is, only a portion of the original trust assets have to end up at the charity. I have no expertise in this however.

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What a beauty!

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I really think it’s fine: new engine, etc. When I tried to adjust the oil pressure at idle and got little response from the gauge I wasn’t prepared for that. On cold start it does go to at least 20 psi, warm itvregisters 4-5 psi, and it’s not really roadable yet so I haven’t checked the “30 psi at 40 mph” standard as yet.

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My 1931 is all copper from end to end. Original? Maybe, who knows? I suspect in that era probably all metal at least.

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I did get the ‘31’s engine to start and idke. It needs a tappet adjustment and timimg check, but itvsoukds nice. I removed the carb Sunday afternoon and gave it a half-way cleaning. As I don’t have any gaskets or parts (or experience with the Stromberg UUR), I removed the bowl cover, idle needles, and gave it a good spray with carb cleaner, then a flush with clean gasoline. That seemed to do the trick. I let it idle until the temp gauge started up. The oil pressure was about 7 psi.

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Hi, Dave, I am not entirely certain it is, but the fuel pump is working I think.

I have been search-limited as my internet is out. I do plan to do what you suggest.

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seems the zinc issue affects mostly high-compression engines beginning in the 1950s, with strong valve springs and high cam loading. As was stated earlier, all Pierces were built before zinc oil additives were in motor oil anyway, so I don’t worry about it. Whatever I put in it (I use Shell Rotella 30-weight) is so much better than anything available in the pre-WWII era anyway, and no oil will make up for a worn-out engine or one with too much sludge and dirt.

Enjoy your car; that’s what it was made for, and it will help preserve it to exercise it!

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We have very mild winters typically but can have the occasional cold snap with a drop below freezing. It has been rare but not unheard of to have temperatures in the teens for a brief time. I am certain my fears are overblown, yet it is difficult to maintain perspective.

One thing to remember about anti-freeze solution is that the freeze temperature they quote is a “slush freeze”, not a solid freeze. I run a less than 50% solution which still protects from any temperature we are likely to see in my area. There is a reduction in cooling due to antifreeze, but it is less than it would be with a 50% solution.

 

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I’ve been using old-style, partly because it seems to have a more known history, and partly that is what is recommended most by the Silver Shadow folks somit works for everything old. I run it in the Series 80 with no apparent problems.

I am prepared to put water + corrosion inhibitor in the ‘31 but I have a lingering fear a moment of inattention could so easily result in disaster during a cold snap, although our winters tend to be mild and it has indoor storage with heat.

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Hi, Dave, my only freewheel is on the ’31 and I have never really driven it, so… but I see only limited if any value in it apart from the historical aspect. Later cars with overdrive are as you say, different, and I missed this part of his question entirely…

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<p style=”text-align: left;”>Thanks for the roof repair thread; this is interesting and useful information. There is a video of a Ford Model A top replacement on YouTube which might help us amateurs.
As for the free wheeling: forget it and drive it like it is- a manual transmission. It was a mildly interesting attempt at creating something to market cars during the Depression, pre-automatic. Didn’t last long which speaks volumes.</p>

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Better yet: transmission back in place…

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great work! Thanks for sharing!

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Indeed! Kathy and I had a great weekend; thanks to Dave and Diana, and all who played a part.

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