Exaust and Body

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  • #391199

    Two questions in two sections.

    1. I have a 1930 Mod B 5Pass. 4Dr sedan and want to know if there was a resonator behind the muffler? Everything I have from the middle of the muffler back is missing.

    2. Is there a listing of what thickness felt went between the frame and various body panels? Or was it whatever it took to align the panels? Jim

    #412527

    The original factory photos for 1929 and also for 1930 show a 30″ or 36″ long muffler just in front of the rear axel, but no resonator. The result is a very quiet exhaust system.

    #398258

    Pierce Arrow factory mufflers and pipes were ENGINEERED just for PA. The mufflers were what is called in the industry double wrapped. That is they had a muffler inside a muffler. ( Made them very quiet.) They basically were straight through with very little restriction. Also, all the pipes were mandrel bent. That is to say not crushed down to a smaller diameter when being bent in the machine. Thus the system was very quiet and had almost no back pressure. Unless you have a system custom made this way, you car will not run, perform, or sound correctly. An incorrect exhaust of modern manufacture that is run on 95 percent of the cars in the PAS from the Classic era causes the car’s performance to be reduced by about 15 percent by my best estimation. Long story short almost every car in the 29 – 38 time frame is too restricted and suffering a large performance deficit due to incorrect and over restricted exhaust systems.

    #398260

    Here is my exhaust from my 29 phaeton. It is 100% original.

    My understanding is that there were two set ups. Some ran under the passenger side and other the drivers. It depended if it was a early or late production. Mine ran under the passenger side of the car. I do not know if the other design had addtional parts.

    Rick

    #398259

    Richard, could you send me some better photos of your factory system. We have been collecting patterns for many years as we like to make our exhaust just as it was new. Thanks, Ed See photo below for a 36-38 set of correct pipes. They are huge, and flow better than anything else made today.

    #398261

    So I guess the big copper pipe that makes up the exhaust system on my ’31 phaeton isn’t original?

    The fellow who owned it for years tore down an old boiler room in the ’60’s, and when he saw the thick walled copper pipe, just knew it was perfect for a “forever”” exhaust system……seems to work fine!!”

    #398262

    David, that is fun story. Copper at the scrap yard is worth a fortune!

    Ed, I agree with your comments about exhaust flow being critical and it is good to see ‘factory spec’ being reproduced. Do you know of someone making accurate mufflers for PA?

    Enjoy your holiday!-John

    #398263

    Ed,

    Do you know of any measured drawings of the mufflers internals? Jim

    #398264

    John Cislak had about a hundred mufflers made. He still has some left for the 36 to 38 cars. I think he is going to do the earlier car in the near future. Give him a call. I am shure he will post an ad whan he is going to make them.

    #398265

    Great to know-thanks Eddie!

    #398268

    Mr. Minnie…Those pipes are gorgeous! I need them for some plumbing I’m engaged in. Are they available?

    #398271

    Tony….you must put a call into John. I think he only has the 36 to 38 stuff in inventory right now. My best, Ed

    #398270

    For Richard Leroy: The engine setup is what determines which side of the car the exhaust runs down.

    For all Pierce straight 8’s, the exhaust manifold is on the right side, the passenger side of the engine. The exhaust runs down the right side of the chassis, inside the frame rails.

    On the ’25-’28 Series 80 and 81 cars, the exhaust manifold is on the left side, the driver’s side of the engine. The exhaust runs down the left side of the chassis, inside the left frame rail.

    Greg Long

    A second layer of steel can be wrapped around a muffler to deaden the ‘ring’ from the muffler’s single thickness skin. Brazed or welded onto to the muffler. It definitely makes a difference in the sound of the car when running. Much less ‘radiated’ sound from under the car.

    Greg L

    #398274

    Good to know. Its a never ending tutorial with these gems. :) thanks Rick

    #398276

    I just measured my head pipe, which I don’t think was replaced. It is 2.250 OD x .065/.069 wall (16 ga) and is either seamless or drawn tubing, as there is no weld bead. It is obviously mandrel bent.

    John’s pipes look really good.

    Bill

    #398280

    Greg,

    Do you put a layer of HiTemp insulation between the two? Jim

    #398281

    Greg,

    I also think you are a font of info–maybe a Helvetica or a Times Roman.

    But, maybe a fount of knowledge too?

    Bob

    #398282

    I think the term is……. virum scientia.

    #398284

    Fonts, fountains etc. :-)

    I went through a time when I was trying to quiet down an aftermarket exhaust system on a diesel truck, it had some weird drones and an odd tinny sound at idle.

    One of the things I noticed was the aftermarket muffler was half the weight of the original equipment one. But about the same size.

    I had a rusted original so I cut it open and it had a double outer skin. No insulation, just two layers of thin steel, with many spot welds keeping the two attached to each other.

    I duplicated the idea, I just added a second skin, of 16ga steel, rolled so it had to be expanded to slide over the muffler, I just tack welded it in a few places and then tested the idea for a few trips to the airport. I had gotten pretty serious about this noise reduction project and had a Db meter. The double skinned muffler was noticeably and measurably quieter. and the dinging and tinny sound was gone when the truck idled.

    I finished attaching the second skin with a few more welds and welded the lengthwise seam closed, Eventually this muffler succumbed to Michigan salt and rusted out, I bought a Stainless steel system next, and inquired of the manufacturer/seller how thick the skin on the muffler was, he asked why? I told him about my double skinned muffler for noise reduction, He offered to make a muffler for me out of 14 ga SSteel, instead of the standard 16ga. And it was plenty quiet.

    So, I believe either a second skin, or a rather thick and heavy single skin will change the radiated sound from just about any muffler. You can experiment quite inexpensively with the correct diameter chimney flue pipe, and two or three large diameter hose clamps. just open the metal flue pipe at the seam, put it around the muffler, and hold it in place with two or three hose clamps. See if you notice any difference. Most flue/chimney pipe is either 24 or 28 ga. Rather thin, but it should make some difference in the radiated sound. You can use the results of the experiment to see if you want to go with a real double skinned muffler or not.

    Greg L.

    #398287

    This exhaust is just one example of why today’s cars while restored don’t run, drive, or perform like they did when new. Add in modern gas, incorrect ignition parts and set up, carburetors not jetted for E10 gas, fuel systems modified and restricted, and the list goes on and on. Fact is most people have never driven a car that runs and performs as a factory new delivered vehicle. The great cars of the 30’s run like the wind when you spend the TIME and money to make them right. Just go for a ride in Bob Dluhy’s 31 eight touring. It’s the best running and driving eight on the planet……….. and I have driven well more than 50 Pierce eight’s

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