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I just bought a non-running Model 54 Club Brougham and I need to remove the radiator. Can I remove the shroud without the radiator or does it all need to come out together and then get disassembled away from the car?
Thanks!
Bill
Here’s a pic.
Bill,
Nice looking car. Are you going to get it running and drive it to California this year?
Dave
Nah, a more reasonable target would be to have it ready to drive to next year’s meet in Auburn.
Bill,
I removed & replaced the shroud on our 1247. While not exactly the same, the 1247 does use the 1932 body and other features. The only problem I had was scratching the replated shroud while re-installing. Foolishly I hadn’t completely removed the auxiliary lights & brackets…stupid!
I previously had the entire assembly out before that to replace the radiator and of course hadn’t scratched the dull older shroud chrome.
Dave
Hi Bill, nice find-bravo!
My 1933 836 shroud is bolted to the radiator surround bracket. There is very little space to access the bolts between the shroud and the fender-if you could remove the shroud, the hood needs to come off as well.
My bet is the factory intended for the pair to come off together and disassembled away from the car.
Best of luck with the fine ride!
This looks like the 1932 Club Brougham that used to be here in Albuquerque in the 1990’s.I have always wondered where the car went.
It’s not that car, Bill. It has been in the Chicago area since the mid seventies. It was restored in the late eighties.
Bill
Great car, more photos please!
Hi Bill, yes the shell can come off, but the shell supports the hood hinge.
and it might be a good time to invert and reverse flush the radiator??
Greg
Hey, Bill, remember the old acronym from school to RTFQ ?? Read The Freak’n Question?
Well, I wrote this message below,, then went back to the top to expand the image of the car..
And discovered I’d written an answer to an unasked question.
I decided to repost it anyway..
Greg Long:
Hi Bill, Great Find!! It’ll keep you ‘off the streets’ for a few months !!
you CAN remove the radiator from the engine compartment without removing the radiator shell. It is a lot of work, but it can be done..
You need to remove the hood, which you know is at least a two person job..
Then remove the radiator / grill support rods going to the firewall.
Next remove the entire radiator fan and fan bearing assembly, the 4 bolts into the front of the engine block.
Then remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, and the water neck from the cylinder head.
I’m pretty sure the ignition wire tube aka ‘loom’ needs to be removed, but can’t remember for sure.
Remove the first few spark plugs. put something in the plug hole to prevent debris or parts falling into the cylinder.
Remove the fasteners holding the radiator to the grill shell.
Disconnect the thermostat/shutter linkage from the thermostat.
Remove the nut from the lower rubber radiator support / mount.
Cut a piece of thin plywood, masonite, formica or similar thin, but tough material the shape of the inside of the radiator, you need to cover the entire inner surface of the radiator core with something that will not allow any dents or pokes to penetrate and damage the tubes and fins of the radiator core..
NOW comes the ‘fun’ part.. You and a healthy, strong helper, or if you are lucky, two healthy helpers and you can direct the operation. One person on each side, angle the top of the radiator toward the engine/firewall.
As you lean the radiator back, let the plywood/masonite/formica touch the cylinder head, and then slide the radiator up. As you lift the radiator, it will be able to lean further toward the firewall..
I think the next obstacle is the distributor. You would want the cap and rotor removed, and the head covered with a towel or padding.
I can’t remember for sure, but I think just about the time the radiator might touch the distributor, the bottom of the radiator will be clear of everything, and you can lift it horizontally, out over a fender..
So,, while it CAN be done.. it actually is probably the same amount of work to just unbolt the parking lights, brackets and hoses, lower mount, upper support rods.. and leave the hood in place, resting on some wood blocks at the front, lean the radiator and shell forward and lift it straight up and over the front bumper.. This will of course require at least two people as well…
Greg Long..
I’ve started cleaning up some of the chrome.
Here’s a bit of the interior.
Not all of the news is good as here’s the headliner with signs of mice.
I’m somewhat stymied ’cause I want to separate the shroud from the louver frame but I can’t seem to get the sequence right. I know that the top of the shroud is tied to the support struts but I can’t seem to get the bottom of the shroud loose. I’ve remove the lower support brackets that are attached to a crosspiece of painted metal that sits below the shroud. I can see two sheet metal screws in the side of the shroud that appear to tie into the louver assembly but they seem quite hard to get at. Are there any other attachments that I’m missing?
Bill: Did you get the radiator and shutters out? Do you have any photos for us?
Greg Long
Not yet. I’m waiting for the warm days coming up. I don’t have the luxury of a heated garage.
Bill
I looked at a 33′ 1236 radiator assembly and the radiator shell is attached to a bracket that extends out from the radiator core on both sides, has the emblem at the bottom and has [2] domed slotted head screws the hold and allow the lower apron to slide into. The lower apron holds the bottom of the shutter assembly and is attached to another set of brackets that match the width of the radiator core. The outer portion of the apron includes a small fixed shutter. The two screws on the radiator side of the apron hold the center piece of the shutter assembly. Since the apron slides down around the domed screws and the radiator shell rests on or very close to the front fenders, the shell could not be separated unless the screws were removed and the shell was pulled toward the front of the car. I wonder if there is a nut/bolt behind the emblem.
I got one of the side machine screws out and it all went “sproing”” when the screw popped out. I removed the emblem and there is no nut and bolt behind it.
Tomorrow it’s supposed to be 50 or warmer so I’ll remove the other screw and then see if it will come loose once I remove the top cross bolt that attaches the shroud to the struts. I’ll report back.”
It warmed up enough this afternoon that I was able to remove the other side screw. Now the bottom of the shroud is loose and I believe that it will come off OK when I remove the upper bolt.
I’ll report back.
Bill