- Home
- About Us
- Join/Renew
- Member Benefits
- Member Pages
- Log In
- Help
- Museum Store
I am new here, so if this is a repeat please forgive me…
If you read the barn find thread I am the guy who purchased Miltons 31 model 43 sedan and I’m just beginning to work on her. Having come from an antique car background, I have constantly heard the best thing you can do for a car is give it clean gas and air, so I decided to change the air filter in the car and this is what I came up with. I disassembled the original filter by bending back the three tabs of the strips holding it all together. I took the bottom flange from it and dropped it upside down into the housing. I didn’t cement anything so it could be undone but it would be easier if it was. I then replaced the filtering element with a K&N permanent style air filter that was made for a motorcycle engine, it’s part number is AL-1001. It is the perfect length to seal between the upside down flange and the cover and it’s one that can be washed and re-oiled whenever is needed. Hopefully my pictures will be posted, but it was a very simple retrofit.
Next
Next
I don’t know what is worse, having to add pictures one at a time or how often I have to log back onto the messages…
The last picture looks just like the first – You would never know what I had inside…
That filter looks like it was made for the car.
Thanks for sharing and congrats on the new Pierce.
Milton is a heck of good guy to pick up a car from.
The car was sold through his son Tim, but it is a great car for us and I’ve been pushing him to visit while on vacation down here this weekend. I can only assume his father is the same great person as he seems. We talked and texted a lot since the purchase.
I’m doing the brakes now and waiting for a carburetor kit and full wiring kit for her but planning on taking it to an AACA Show the first weekend in March so long as she stops better. I’d been looking for a car like it for a long time and am excited as heck. I’ll also be posting a lot about my adventures with big blue…
I look forward to hearing about your adventures in Big Blue.
And welcome to the PAS!
This post has helped me, so thanks for taking the time to share.
Mark, thanks for the info on the K&N AL-1001 filter. I couldn’t find one in the catalog to fit my similar 1930 silencer can (the 1930 lacks the snorkel of 1931-32), so I used K&N “filter wrap” which doesn’t come oiled, so I oiled it for installation. I added a hardware cloth cylinder on the inside (to prevent collapse under suction) and on the outside of the wrap, and new fine-mesh brass screen on the visible outside of the can to duplicate the factory outside appearance.
You are welcome Randy.
George,that was where I was headed at first, wrapping the original inner and outer with filter wrap but the K& N website has a lookup feature that shows the filter sizes and I went searching. The original was something like 4-7/8 diameter and the new one is 5†the length was about 3/16†to 1/4†short. Flipping the old flange did two things, first it made up the length, and gave me a seat where the smaller diameter filter sat at the bottom of the can. The flange of the cover grabbed the top of the replacement just fine. It came out so well I thought it was a great idea to share.
Today’s adventure was relining two brake shoes… took a lot of pictures to remember which springs went where and a lot of swearing to loosen up the 80+ years old cable but I’m almost done with 1 wheel. Going to be a long weekend I can see!
I’ll also mention that I bought the filter brand new from an eBay motocross parts dealer. It’s made for a motorcycle but has a large filtration surface giving plenty of air through. It was just under $30 delivered which is less than the K&N website.
Hi Mark, can you post a link to the Motocross parts dealer? I’d like to buy two of those AL-1001 filters.
Thanks, Greg Long.
Here’s the link, but he only lists one left. If you search by the part number and sort by lowest price plus shipping you may find another less than the K&N list price.
That didn’t work right, try this
Thanks Mark, The second link worked fine.
Thank you for sharing this !!
Greg Long
You are welcome, it’s the kind of information that should be shared here. I see that there are many cars in the roster this would help but I am not sure of interchangeability to other years as this is my first dance with this particular lady…
I’ll post some pictures of my next adventure once I get the rear hubs to come free. 2 days into it and only 1 brake cable cleaned & greased and one pair of re-lined shoes. Time consuming but very necessary to be able to stop!
Hi Mark.
If you have a good puller on the rear hubs, and a firm smack on the center bolt of the puller has not pulled the hub off the axle yet, use a torch to heat the hub, then let it cool, then heat again. The thermal cycles seem to do the trick.
OH, when put a puller on the hub/asle, you should leave the nut on the axle with 1/16″-1/8″ gap to the hub. When the hub releases from the taper, with a lot of preload from the puller, the hub can come free violently, flying across the room, and if you are in the way, a badly injured shin, knee or whatever can happen. So, leave the axle nut on as a retaining device.
Regarding the filter. this type of outside-air snorkel-fed air filter were used on ’31 and ’32 cars. Some 29 and30 cars had this filter setup retrofitted to them For ’33 and later, the carb was a down draft.
Greg Long
.
Good advice, and exactly how I got the rear hub loose. My wife thought I had fired a gun in the garage by the clanging that 15†drum made! For some reason I expected a spline and floating hubs not a taper, but like I said before, it’s my first dance with a Pierce… Fords come apart a lot easier, come to think about it so did my Studebaker some 25-30 years ago.
Fords and even Studebakers HAD to come apart so much more often!
Dave