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What is the equivelent to the “Special Compound” used in the Chassis Lubricating System? Thanks, DAVE STEPHENS
600-W gear oil as sold by Model A & T Ford suppliers. Be sure you get the dark, smelly, viscous stuff rather than the honey-colored suspected-repackaged-SAE-140.
Your Series 81 has a non-hypoid differential, so does not need Extreme Pressure (EP) gear oils, although many have used the latter successfully for years.
In my experience, 600-W tends to thicken to a too-viscous point at about 20 years.
George,
Is it okay to use wheel bearing grease for a boat trailer in the water pump cup? What do you recommend?
Thank you.
Ken
No, use water pump grease, I like to run cutting oil in the system if I am not running anti freeze, keeps everything lubricated well and stops rust and corrosion.
Restoration Supply Company sells water pump grease by 14oz cans. The
2011 catalog I’m looking at lists it as calcium grease, NLGI #4. Ideal
water pump lubricant. LUB003 $9.50(2011 price). Phone: 1-800-306-7008.
http://www.RestorationStuff.com
Ed and Tony,
Thank you very much. I will order water pump grease.
Ken
Tony, ever the educator, in his usual subtle manner is giving us some important information: Per Restoration Supply, their water pump grease is actually calcium grease, NLGI #4. I think I’ll run by my local bearing house for some calcium grease NLGI #4 but I’ll bet (1) it’s not labeled “water pump grease” and (2) it will likely be cheaper, and (3) I won’t have to pay shipping…
George
George,
I have a call into our local Farm Supply here is San Luis Obispo. Thank you for the tip on Calcium Grease. When he calls me back I will ask him about that.
Ken
I guess this is it. Calcium must be good for something. It must prevent aqueousporosis and possibly arterial hosemosis in the rubber hoses, but I am no DR.
Bill, I note on that webpage that that grease is NLGI Grade #!, not #4. Do we have any lubrication engineers familiar with NLGI grades?
George
LUBRIPLATE No. 115 was recommended to me. It is a NGLI grade #4 (No I am not a lubrication engineer, but I can read the spec sheet)
https://www.lubriplate.com/PDFs/PDS/3_13-100-Series.aspx
Robert
I have the Lubricant and was able to get it from a Petroleum Dealer, JB Dewar.
They were nice enough to just give me some. They stated that they get in 9 pound quantities.
I do have a question about how do I go about filling the cup. I have books and the owners manual but none of them address that topic. I guess the figure a guy should know how to fill the cup. When I put the grease inside the packing it came out of the back of the gland nut. I tried to loosen the Grease Cup and it just came out completely.
Thank you for the help,
Ken
Unscrew and remove the grease cup. Clean out any old grease inside, Use your fingertip to pack the grease cup to within 3 or 4 threads of the open end. Screw grease cup onto the threads. Stop when you get moderate resistance after the grease compresses a bit, it’s not supposed to be tight. By no means use a tool to tighten! From time to time (maybe every couple of hundred miles OR if you see some dripping), give the cup a half turn or so. When you get a lot of resistance, it’s time to refill the cup. That’s all there is to it!
George thank you for getting back to me. We took the Grease Cup off the Water Pump and there is a small hole through the center of the threads. Is that where I need to pack the grease into? For some reason I was thinking the Grease should be packed into the top. The cup itself looks like it should separate but we were unable to figure out how to back it off.
I appreciate you impute,
Ken
Ken, I should have been more specific in my description. Often a slightly different-from-original grease cup is found, but the following will work for both.
The grease cup actually has two parts: the heavier portion is screwed into the water pump housing; the flats are either 3/8 or 7/16 inch. LEAVE THIS PART IN PLACE The upper part has a knurled circumference OR (different type) a raised straight section to five you a finger grip. The upper portion of either type unscrews easily with your fingers.
Screwing down the easily-removable part with your thumb and forefinger forces a small amount of grease through the hole in the (heavier) base into the pump–that is, until the supply of grease in the ‘reservoir’ has been used up, at which time you need to re-pack.
The idea is to fill the reservoir but allow just enough unfilled space for the threads on the two parts to gain traction. Whether you fill the base (lower) or upper portion doesn’t make much difference. As a general rule, if the threads of the base are on the outside, fill the base–and vice versa.
George
There is also a reproduction fitting that looks totally original on the outside. With the cap off it exposes a zerk fitting. Super easy and no mess. With the cap back on you can’t tell the difference. I use these on my a model T’s.
Ken,
You should post a photo.
Here is a photo of my Series 80 grease cup.
Peter
Thank you everyone for your help. Peter here is a picture of my cup it looks like a regular grease fitting. It looks like it should come apart. When we tried to loosen the cap the whole unit came out of the water pump.
I appreciate everybody helping.
Ken
Here is another picture out of the water pump.
