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As an update to an earlier post on the timing chain, Ramsey won’t sell direct to even machine shops, so we ran through Egge. They want $454.16 for the chain on the ’29. They say the gears are no longer available. Is this in line with what you all are seeing? Is there another source that is of decent quality and perhaps a bit cheaper?
Does anyone know the valve spring specs for this engine?
Also, I understand a guy from the Studebaker club used to sell new housings for the oil pump. David Coco gave me his name (and I forgot it), but I checked a month ago or so and his web site is down. Any suggestions/recomendations?
Thanks,
Bob
It was Lionel Stone, but I understand now that he had a serious truck accident about 5 years ago, so don’t think that source is available. At one time he cast some bronze oil pump housings for the Studebaker Presidents, and with a little bit of work they could be made to fit a Pierce application.
Bob, I have a box of old Pierce oil pumps somewhere, if you can’t find a source we can dig through it and see if anything is usable….
The chain is referred to as a silent chain. Acme Power Transmissions also have silent chain and may be an option.
They will probably need the dimension. I don’t know them, but they may be worth a call.
Bill
Bob,
I went through this same situation with the timing chain and sprockets on my 1930. The counterman said he could get the chain but no sprockets, after my saying several times that if the company makes chains they must have sprockes to go with them. The manager came over to see what the problem was, then he pulled out a book with the sprockets listed. About $600 for the chain and both sprockets. Needed to machine the sprockets to the correct mounting. If doing it again I would send the sprockets to them for the machining. Jim Livings
John Cislak has direct fit chain and sprockets in stock for 1930 to 1938 8 & 12 on the shelf. He also has good used chains and gears sometimes too.
He also has a good set of 29 gears and chain, used condition. He has made new valve springs several times in the past 15 years, and they are currently in stock. He also still has some of the no longer made oil pumps. He bought out the stock from Stone about 5 years ago. Jak from down under bought a oil pump a few months ago. He could tell you about them if you like. He posts here often.
David, I will give you a call when we stop shoveling… Bill, thanks for the info. I tried ACME’s web site, but it locked up. I did get their number, and will give them a call in the morning. They are in Brooklyn, NY. Thanks for the info on John Cislak’s parts availibility, Ed. The chain in the engine is decent, but I would prefer a new one if it is available. I will call John about the oil pump parts. It would stink to do a full rebuild and ruin the engine from a poor oil pump.
We are hoping to re-use the springs if possible as well. I have looked through all the literature I have, and can’t find a spec for a spring compression pressure at, say, 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 inches. We will check them and see if they are consistent. 70-90 pounds seems like a good number for the modern (50’s and 60’s) stuff, but you never know with the older engines.
Jak, did that pump reach you down under yet? We here in the colonies always appreciate your posts!
Bob
Guys,
I did find a spec on the valve springs from a summary of technical specs for the 1931 cars. It said “50 to 55 pounds with the spring compressed to 2-3/32″ height with the close wound coils at the top.”
In the For What it is Worth category, I have a Lionel Stone oil pump in my car and it does fine. It is much better to use these reproductions than to take a chance on a brittle or already cracked die cast original oil pump body. I have heard of folks loosening the oil pump bolts on these and having the pump housing come out in pieces…..thus explaining some of that low oil pressure!
Happy Motoring,
Chris Diekman
The correct spring rate is 65 pounds, but I don’t have the free spring length or compressed length. (Thus 55 at a shorter compression may be the same as 65 at a more compressed length.)The engineering sheet on the valve springs was three pages long and way more engineering specs than you could imagine. The rate used factory specs from the thirties, and a sample of no less than three style springs Pierce used when new. I have seen several rebuilt Pierce engines with running problems due to weak springs. The valve / spring set up is more complicated than many people understand. See John Cislack’s video on his website to set up valves, springs, and lifters. The parts do NOT interchange and keep the same valve clearance. Watch the video, it is very good. If you have weak springs it’s best to replace them, as shims are a band aid fix and future issues may develop.
The setup video John has made is for hydraulic lifters used in the ’33 and later cars. The manual adjusted solid- lifters in the earlier cars are much less critical about installed height and spring pressure.
50-55# installed spring pressure will work fine with the solid-lifter engines.
Greg L
G’day Bob Pump bits not only arrived here by reliable carrier pidgeon—- It was a doodle to fit. Oil pressure back to normal when engine hot. I need something else to worry about now!!
Greg is correct the solid lefters are less fussy on spring pressure. It’s common to find all but one spring ok, and then one ends up at 30 pounds and will float the valve as speed. The later lifters will lift the valve open with oil pressure if the springs are not right on. It’s a common problem on rebuilt engines that have had a short cut done to them.